Replacing engine bay LEDs?

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Thread: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

  1. #1
    Senior Member SebringSilver's Avatar
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    Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    I did a search but couldn't find anything specifically about this, so here goes...

    After picking up the car this afternoon from the detailer's, I got home and noticed that my left-side engine bay LED lights aren't working. Is it possible to replace this myself? Or do I need a lot of special tools/skills to do it?

    Would appreciate any helpful advice.
    David

    2009 R8 4.2 | ADV1 07 Track Spec 20" | Continental ExtremeContact DW | H&R Springs | V10 Side Skirts


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  3. #2
    Senior Member FiftyPence's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Tools required:

    Wide blade flathead screwdriver
    Small blade flathead screwdriver

    1. Unscrew all twist fixings on the engine bay side trim a quarter/half turn with the wide blade screwdriver. Most if not all should remain in place on the trim but if any are loose, remove and set aside in a safe place for later.

    2. Have a helper hold up the engine bay lid or in my case I tied some rope around the rafters in my workshop to the lock mechanism on the engine bay lid to hold it up.

    3. Use the small blade flatblade screwdriver to poke into the recess at the bottom joint of the pneumatic engine bay lid support and pull off to remove it from its ball joint. The engine bay lid cannot be supported by just one support which is why we have a helper or tie up the engine bay lid.

    4. You can now jiggle out the engine bay side trim a little and then access the wire to the LED which must be disconnected.

    5. At this point you will be able to determine wether you need to remove the trim from the vehicle to access the LED or if you can remove the LED with the trim in-situ. The LED is held in by two brass clips on the wiring side of the trim which need to be pressed in sufficiently for the LED to pop out on the other side.

    I suggest checking the wiring connector first, maybe it was just loose and if the light still doesnt come on then remove the light and inspect. Try it on the other side of the engine bay and if it still doesn't work then it would seem to be the LED which needs replacing.

  4. #3
    Senior Member gazza1's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Off topic a bit...
    Last edited by gazza1; 07-18-2011 at 04:21 AM.
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  5. #4
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    Gazza1 i have a 2009 and the lights turn on in the engine bay if u turn on the reading light in the cabin. We all know that. However after 10 minutes even if the cabin light is still on and u r driving whatever speed the lights in the engine bay turn off automatically. What everyone is asking is if there is a way to have them stay on more than the 10 minute limit set. I found out u cant do that with software adjustments from my dealer. As for this thread it isnt focused on this. The guy was just asking how he can go about replacing the led.
    --------------------------
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  6. #5
    Senior Member gazza1's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Off topic was noted by me but I have now deleted as I thought it was a recent change
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  7. #6
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    What's the issue with routing a new cable to power those LEDs to make them on as long as ignition is on?

    Wouldn't that light cause iffy reflections on the rear view window?

  8. #7
    Senior Member SebringSilver's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Quote Originally Posted by FiftyPence View Post
    Tools required:

    Wide blade flathead screwdriver
    Small blade flathead screwdriver

    1. Unscrew all twist fixings on the engine bay side trim a quarter/half turn with the wide blade screwdriver. Most if not all should remain in place on the trim but if any are loose, remove and set aside in a safe place for later.

    2. Have a helper hold up the engine bay lid or in my case I tied some rope around the rafters in my workshop to the lock mechanism on the engine bay lid to hold it up.

    3. Use the small blade flatblade screwdriver to poke into the recess at the bottom joint of the pneumatic engine bay lid support and pull off to remove it from its ball joint. The engine bay lid cannot be supported by just one support which is why we have a helper or tie up the engine bay lid.

    4. You can now jiggle out the engine bay side trim a little and then access the wire to the LED which must be disconnected.

    5. At this point you will be able to determine wether you need to remove the trim from the vehicle to access the LED or if you can remove the LED with the trim in-situ. The LED is held in by two brass clips on the wiring side of the trim which need to be pressed in sufficiently for the LED to pop out on the other side.

    I suggest checking the wiring connector first, maybe it was just loose and if the light still doesnt come on then remove the light and inspect. Try it on the other side of the engine bay and if it still doesn't work then it would seem to be the LED which needs replacing.
    Incredibly helpful, as always. I'll look into this later today.

    Thanks!
    David

    2009 R8 4.2 | ADV1 07 Track Spec 20" | Continental ExtremeContact DW | H&R Springs | V10 Side Skirts


  9. #8
    Super Moderator KfabR8's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Use a flash light and look through the grill work above the light - you'll be able to see if it's plugged in or not.
    Yellow Dog Racing
    2011 Samoa Orange V8 R-tronic

  10. #9
    Senior Member SebringSilver's Avatar
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    Quote Originally Posted by KfabR8 View Post
    Use a flash light and look through the grill work above the light - you'll be able to see if it's plugged in or not.
    Thank you! I did precisely that and it was just loose. And thanks to FiftyPence's suggestions above, it was a cinch to loosen the carbon fibre piece and plug the connector back in.

    I love this forum.
    David

    2009 R8 4.2 | ADV1 07 Track Spec 20" | Continental ExtremeContact DW | H&R Springs | V10 Side Skirts


  11. #10
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    Re: Replacing engine bay LEDs?

    You just saved $200 on stealership work!

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