Disconnect exhaust valve, so always open?

[roentgen68]

I'm much much lazier than you !!!

Before picking up the car at the dealership, I emailed the instructions and photos to my rep and the chief mechanic there did it for me, no charge.

They were impressed... I did not give away the source but I did not take credit for this mod!

Thanks everybody!!

[eliouno]

Hi All,
I am a new member to the R8 forum and only got my 2011 R8 V8 Spyder on 16th December, so still early days for me in both respects. However, I felt I had to share my experience with you all for the benefit of others who may be considering this mod and to thank those that have contributed to this thread, as it helped me enormously. I hope I don't bore you but here goes my story; I agree with many that the R8 stock exhaust is not a bad sound, particularly above 4000 rpm+ and on to WOT. For me it was just too quiet at low revs and, like RandomBloke and Desperado, felt that you had to work the transmission too hard to enjoy the sound even when you didn't want a spirited drive. Not wanting to invest in an aftermarket exhaust at such an early stage of ownership and also not wanting to annoy neighbours or spoil the interior calm when cruising, I was attracted to trying this mod as it was the low speed 'burble' that I felt this car lacked. Having read the entire thread I carried out the mod today and I have to say it appears that it was the perfect compromise for my needs; a noticeable change in engine note at all revs up to the 'known' 4000 change point and such an improvement over stock. I now feel like I am driving a proper V8 even when trickling through town and it attracts much more attention and gives me a smile at every blip of the throttle.

I read the entire thread and pieced together all the info before I started and although I felt reasonably confident I was still not 100% sure I knew what I was doing. For this reason I will describe what I did in the hope it may help someone else; Following the basic principle that Jon.Kustard promoted I followed Toecutters instructions and photos. I couldn't get the proper vacuum caps off the shelf at short notice in England so I used the Hozelock 2779 bungs suggested by FiftyPence (B & Q about £3) and I picked up a rubber cap from a local car accessory shop which was about 12mm long, about 9mm diameter and with a 3.4mm hole in it (apparently designed for something to do with diesel injectors - 34p) as a way of 'dust capping' the solenoid. After jacking the car and removing the wheel and the wheel arch inner, (lots of screws - needed a T30 Torque drive bit - about 15 screws inside the arch and one underneath at rear of arch) the solenoid became visible at the top of the shock absorber area. As mentioned by Toecutter, it runs horizontally on the Spyder and there are two pipe connections. As you view it, the left hand one is the one which goes on to the T and in turn is split to each exhaust. The right hand (or outer most) one, is the feed pipe coming from the engine and here I followed Zondar's suggestion and disconnected this one only, leaving the T and the two pipes it runs to, still attached to the solenoid. I then put the bung in the pipe and pushed the cap over the solenoid nipple. As a further precaution to ensure no air leaks and to prevent the cap or bung from dislodging, I individually wrapped PVC insulation tape around both. I then re-routed the pipe alongside the other pipe and fitted two cable ties to ensure the disconnected pipe did not wander around when the car was under way. The inner wheel arch and the wheel were refitted and the tools cleared away. I timed the whole operation from when I unlocked the car to when I started it up after the work and it took me exactly 1 hour and 34 minutes including taking several photos along the way. I can confirm that this method works for the V8 Spyder and is not beyond anybody that can change a wheel.

My other observations, for what they are worth, are these; read the manual before removing the wheel and follow the instructions for using the wheel alignment rod, it really helps removal and re-fitting. The screws that hold in the wheel arch inner are coated with thread locker and are quite stiff to remove. I did not have any to hand and will remove and refit these screws when I have some to ensure they do not work loose. At the same time I will check the security of the fittings on the solenoid and the pipe and replace the PVC insulation tape I used.

I have taken a raft of photos and would be happy to forward them to anybody that may benefit from them as I have tried to add some of them to this message but with no success. Just pm me and I will send them on.

Once again, thanks to everyone that posted info on this mod as it really was worthwhile for me and has put a big smile on my face. I Love my R8.....!

Regards

Al - Norwich UK

I would like to get comments from some of the guys who know their stuff on this issue as I am uncertain.
When I took my R8 spyder to a mechanic, he first took off one wheel, and stuck his hand up the wheel well, disconnected the tube and plugged it up.
He then said he would try the other side without removing the wheel and was able to snake his way up and remove the tube and plug it up.

Is it possible to do it in this manner.
I can't really tell if the exhaust is louder in the spyder, and after reading the different ways that people do it, was wondering it it was at all possible to do it without removing the rear tires and whether there was only one tube to disconnect and plug up.

[V8ALV]

Eliouno,

I am not a mechanic. I simply read and digested the info on this thread and came to the conclusion that it's virtually impossible to reach the solenoid on the Spyder except from the wheel arch and, from what I have read, a single disconnection here was the best method. I don't believe you could easily do this work at this point without removing the wheel and inner arch to get to it. It really isn't that difficult if you decide to give it a go. The hardest part was removing all the screws from the wheel arch as they are stiff and plentiful. Just take your time; have the tools/bungs/parts/tape ready, read the manual for removing the tyre and do it in daylight.

I never looked to see if it was possible by plugging each side separately from under the rear. Some guys on here have said they did it this way. Best read through and contact those who have experience of this method. Good Luck

V8ALV

[eliouno]

Eliouno,

I am not a mechanic. I simply read and digested the info on this thread and came to the conclusion that it's virtually impossible to reach the solenoid on the Spyder except from the wheel arch and, from what I have read, a single disconnection here was the best method. I don't believe you could easily do this work at this point without removing the wheel and inner arch to get to it. It really isn't that difficult if you decide to give it a go. The hardest part was removing all the screws from the wheel arch as they are stiff and plentiful. Just take your time; have the tools/bungs/parts/tape ready, read the manual for removing the tyre and do it in daylight.

I never looked to see if it was possible by plugging each side separately from under the rear. Some guys on here have said they did it this way. Best read through and contact those who have experience of this method. Good Luck

V8ALV

Hopefully one of the guys on the forum will know more definitively as there are quite a few who did it and know their stuff,,,thanks for the comments

[YanbuR8]

i've done this just now and it started well in the begining but after driving it for a few minutes the EPC light came on and the car revs to 6.5 k very bad thing
will the repluging restore it properly ?

[randombloke]

i've done this just now and it started well in the begining but after driving it for a few minutes the EPC light came on and the car revs to 6.5 k very bad thing
will the repluging restore it properly ?

are you sure you plugged the line properly - it sounds like a vacuum leak?

[otis]

Well I had my local dealer do the open valve modification and I like it. In the V10 it's really subtle, but a nicer deep tone. With the spyder it's a nice touch. It's hard to notice and with the coupe I doubt you'd notice it. It's a good change in sound in the V10 spyders. Kudo for my local Audi dealer (Maplewood Audi) who did it free of charge when they did the fuel line recall.

Otis