DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

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Thread: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

  1. #1
    Senior Member MotherTucker's Avatar
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    DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Step by step instructions with pictures

    Audi recommends changing the engine oil in the R8 only every 10,000 miles (approx. 15,000 km) except for the initial oil change at 5,000 miles. I prefer to change it more frequently than that. For one I track my car a lot, which does stress the engine. But also some mechanic friends of mine say that even the best filters can’t keep the small dirt particles out for that length of time, and dirt causes engine wear. I’ve been changing oil in all my cars around 4,000 miles. I’ve tracked my NSX really hard for about 6 years; it’s got 140,000 miles on it and the original engine still runs flawlessly. So, I’ve decided to change the R8’s oil every 5,000 miles. I’ll have to change it once between each scheduled service. Shouldn’t be too tough, right?

    Wrong. The R8 has a dry sump engine so there's no deep oil pan with a single drain plug. There are 3 drain plugs in the engine and another in the big oil reservoir, and you have to remove the large plastic noise/aero covers under the car to get access to it all. You need some special tools to really do it correctly. I just changed it for the first time, and it was by far the most difficult oil change I’ve ever done. Here’s some notes and pictures to help you, if you decide to take this on.

    R8 Oil and Oil Filter Change


    What parts do I need?
    1. New filter element, Audi part 079-198-405-B, $23.47 USD recently for me at the dealer.
    2. 10 Liters (or 10.6 quarts) of oil. It needs to meet VW502 spec. Audi has published a list of approved oils, and that list is very long. There are many oils that meet the spec that do not say so on the bottle, including Mobil 1. Here is a link to Audi’s list: http://www.audicanada.ca/etc/mediali....0023.File.pdf

    What tools do I need?
    1. 32 MM socket to remove the oil filter cover.
    2. T-30 Torx tool to remove the screws holding on the plastic noise/aero covers under the car.
    3. 8 MM triple square drive tool to remove 3 plugs from the oil pan. I have an XZN socket set, and this tool is labeled XZN8M. You can remove 2 of the 3 oil pan plugs using this standard 8 MM tool. To remove the 3rd plug, you need a special Audi/VW tool T40159. See more info on this tool later in this thread.
    4. 12 MM triple square drive tool to remove the plug from the oil reservoir, XZN12M. Alternatively, you can use an 18 MM socket, but it’s more difficult to use that because it’s bigger and there is not much room for it due to the hydraulic clutch line going in to the transmission there.
    5. A small torque wrench if you really want to be sure to re-tighten the plugs to the exact proper tightness.
    6. Ramps or a lift or maybe jack stands to lift the car.
    7. A large pan to drain the oil into.
    8. Oil-proof gloves and a lot of paper towels.

    Changing the Filter

    This is the easy part. Lift the engine cover, and then remove the small center trim piece that says “V8 FSI” by lifting it straight up. Use a big 32 MM socket on an extension to unscrew the filter cover.

    The filter canister automatically drains when you remove the filter, but have some paper towels ready because the filter drips oil as you remove it. To replace the filter element, first yank the old one out of the cap. Then remove and replace the big o-ring (#2 in the picture) on the cap. Clean the sealing surfaces on the cap and canister, being careful not to let any gunk get into the canister. Lubricate the new o-ring with some oil. Insert the new filter into the canister (not into the cap!), turning it until that bottom outlet and o-ring (#4 in the picture) goes into the matching hole in the canister. Press it down firmly. Then screw on the cover until it seats firmly. That’s all.



    Changing the Oil

    The service manual instructs that the engine should be at “operating temperature” before changing the oil. So, run the engine until the oil temperature rises to normal. Don’t you just love working on a hot engine?

    Next, get the car off the ground but still be near-level. I have a slight hill in my driveway, so I backed the car up on ramps there and it worked acceptably. A lift would be better as there is not much room up under the oil pan. Next, use the T-30 Torx tool to remove the 2 (#1 and #2 below) air scoops and the entire rear noise cover (#3). The service manual says to also remove the front noise cover (#4) but you don’t need to; it’s sufficient to remove just the 5 closest screws on it and pull the edge of it down a bit when you need to. Remember to keep track of where you removed which screws; some of them have shoulders, others have special washers, others have thread locking compound on them, and the rest are plain. Also note that the 2 scoops are different from each other and must later be remounted in the proper location. Lots of fun!



    Also, you should remove the oil fill cap before draining the oil, so there is good air flow in to allow the oil to flow out quickly.

    So at this point, you would see something like this:


    Now it’s time to drain the engine oil. There are 3 drain plugs on the oil pan, clearly marked with large arrows:


    Use the 8MM triple square drive tool to remove the plugs and drain the oil. Just position a large catch pan under the plug, grab some paper towels, and have at it. Be careful not to lose those special copper washers on the plugs. There’s about 4 liters of oil in the engine itself. This is where I ran into a problem. There is very little room for the tool on the one plug that is very close to that red frame member. It’s so close that my socket type 8MM tool would not work. To get that plug out, you need just the right special tool. The Audi service manual says to use Socket T40159. So for my first oil change, I didn’t remove that 3rd plug. Later when I refilled the car with oil, it still took the full 10 liters to fill it, so apparently there is not a lot of oil left once you drain the engine using only the other 2 plugs. Afterward I checked with my local Audi R8 technician, and he pointed me to the proper tool. SEE T40159 TOOL INFO LATER IN THIS THREAD. When you replace the plugs, don’t over tighten them. They were not super tight; the service manual specifies 20Nm = 14 ft-lbs.

    Now drain the oil from the oil reservoir tank. It’s the aluminum tank between the transmission and the left rear wheel, above the starter motor:


    WARNING – you strike the mother lode of oil when you remove that plug! About 6 liters comes gushing out very quickly. Make sure your catch pan is empty and big enough to hold it all, and get ready to have your hand covered with (hot) oil. Latex or Nitril gloves are recommended. Use the 12MM triple square drive tool, or an 18MM standard socket. Go for it! Retighten the plug to only 22Nm = 15 ft-lbs.

    OK, time to clean up a bit. Grab some soapy cleaner spray, and clean up the clutch line and the big ground wire from the starter motor that just got covered with oil under the reservoir. Also clean the bottom of the oil pan. It all should look at least as clean as it was when you got there.

    Now you’re ready to button it up. As they say, installation is a reverse of removal. Replace all the covers and screws (you kept track of where the special ones went, right?) and scoops.

    Back up on the top side, pour 10 liters (or 10.6 quarts) of oil into the oil fill location under the oil cap. Start the car and let it warm up until the oil temp needle is horizontal (normal operating temperature). Then turn off the car and wait 2 minutes. Then check the oil level using the dipstick there next to the oil cap. It should be in the “do not add” range; if not, add more until it is. The car should be level when you do this.

    That’s it. A nice feeling – happy car, happy driver.

    mt

    Here's a link to a Microsoft Word format document with this info (441 KB).
    Last edited by MotherTucker; 11-10-2010 at 08:39 AM.
    2007 VW GTI MK5
    1992 Acura NSX
    2009 Audi R8 V8 red/red manual
    2012 Audi R8 V10 sepang/mugello rtronic ceramic brakes

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  3. #2
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    What are you thoughts on sucking the oil from up above? Thru the dipstick tube and directly from the reservior? I have done oil changes this way on other cars for years...
    Glen Tokuhara
    A few cars.

  4. #3
    Senior Member London Lad's Avatar
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    I don't like sucking oil out as you have less chance of getting any particles out of the bottom of the sump.

  5. #4
    Super Moderator RS4Cab's Avatar
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Since I'm in a area with Winter snow I will only be putting on less than 5k a year, So once a year oil change works for me. And after looking at all that work I'm glad I got them to throw in 4 years of free maintenance
    2012 Red R8 V10 6sp manual, Tubi Rumore Exhaust, Carbonio Performance Intake with Window Cover, Sprintbooster, PPI Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel, Gt Carbon Fiber Wing, Hofele Carbon Fiber front lip, Carbon Fiber Gas Enclosure, Black Badges, Escort 9500ci Stealth Install, HRE P101 Wheels w/Michelin PSS

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  6. #5
    Senior Member MotherTucker's Avatar
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Quote Originally Posted by London Lad View Post
    I don't like sucking oil out as you have less chance of getting any particles out of the bottom of the sump.
    Yes. And, the R8 service manual has a big red notice in a special red box that says "Do not use an oil extractor" at the beginning of the oil replacement procedure. At best you would get almost all of the oil out of the reservoir, and none out of the engine.
    Last edited by MotherTucker; 06-18-2009 at 02:05 PM.
    2007 VW GTI MK5
    1992 Acura NSX
    2009 Audi R8 V8 red/red manual
    2012 Audi R8 V10 sepang/mugello rtronic ceramic brakes

  7. #6
    Senior Member R84ME's Avatar
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Wow, MT, what an awesome documentation job! Are you writing an Audi R8 service manual? If not, you should be! Thanks!
    '09 Audi R8 MT6 - Ice Silver-Apollo/Black (gone but never forgotten)

  8. #7
    Senior Member MotherTucker's Avatar
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    OK, so I stopped by my local Audi dealer and talked to the main R8 tech there. He was very nice, they like me because I'm an R8 owner that is a serious car guy that does things like track the car and such. He showed me the special tool for removing that plug:


    The special things about it are that it's long enough to reach over the frame member, plus the business end of it is conical in shape. So it can be used from a wide variety of angles just like a "wobbler" that you can get for your socket set. He said it should only be used to initially break the plug free (and finally tighten it), not to unscrew it fully. He also said that he thinks it is important to NOT reuse the copper crush washers on the plugs, he said they can leak if you do that. So he also recommended replacing those. I've never had one leak and I've been reusing them in other cars for years, but that's what he said.

    You can buy the T40159 tool here. It's $48 USD.

    So are any other brave souls going to change their own oil?

    mt
    Last edited by MotherTucker; 07-06-2009 at 12:58 PM.
    2007 VW GTI MK5
    1992 Acura NSX
    2009 Audi R8 V8 red/red manual
    2012 Audi R8 V10 sepang/mugello rtronic ceramic brakes

  9. #8
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Very nice contribution to the forum M.T.. Thank you for your yoeman work!
    I was always told by real mechanics to replace the crushable copper washers when replacing drain plugs, but like you I've often not and never had a problem with one leaking.

    It's interesting that Mercedes, which in the US is totally committed to the 10k+ oil change interval, has their own spec. for oil, and an apparently even more stringent spec. for their diesels (MB spec 229.51, with all kinds of dire warnings about your warranty if you use an oil that doesn't meet this spec. in your MB diesel).

    Mobil 1 ESP Formula M is the only oil I've been able to actually find outside of MB dealerships (but rarely) that meets that spec (though MB says there's 2 others) and it apparently involves compatibility with their special particulate filter (likely especially important in a diesel with carbon particle accumulation but helpful in any long oil interval situation I should think).

    Suggests to me that the filter choice is likely very important if you're going to the 10k+ oil change interval. My conclusion with an R8 is that if you choose the right oil and possibly also upgrade the filter if you can find one better than the factory spec, you shouldn't have to worry about 10k oil changes, though I do agree with more often if you're doing a lot of 10/10ths driving (track time). A magnet on your plug never hurts either, though these modern engines have too much non magnetic metal in them now for that to be a comprehensive solution.

    My big question is: do they make an additive to make your exhaust smell like you're running Castrol R? (the old time real thing...the original eau d' racetrack!
    I'd buy it in a second if they did

    PS: this thread should be sticky!!
    2010 v8 delv'd 9/9/09: Jet Blue/Silver w. Limestone
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  10. #9
    Senior Member harrison's Avatar
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    Smile re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Remember Klotz and Castor oils? I prefer the smell of Blendsall !! Royal purple and redline and ... Any of these race oils accepted by Audi??
    GONE-BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN '8,R8 V8,Paddles,Mag ride,Jet-Blue/Carbon blades,Smoke chrome OEM 5 spokes & Lambo S.L. whls,Miltek exh.PPI Steering whl,rear wing,front grill,air filter kit.C.F.interior trim,V10 sideskirts,premium black leather,B&O,navi,camara. KEEPURSHINEYSIDEUP/STICKYSIDEDOWN VIDEO:R8 in CANYON video ... janerinsurance.com/r8 ...\"/

  11. #10
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    re: DIY Oil Change: R8 V8

    Quote Originally Posted by MotherTucker View Post

    So are any other brave souls going to change their own oil?

    mt

    Now that I have looked at YOUR OUTSTANDING post on it, Yes.

    Thanks.

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