How to eliminate/reduce understeer at track?

[thunder]

2010 R8 V10.
I tracked it with OEM Pirellis, then switched to 245 front/305 rear Bridgestone RE11's.
Lots of tire shredding understeer with the Pirellis, better, but still understeers with the RE11's.
I plan on giving it more negative camber in the front.

Any other experiences or suggestions? Anyone know the OEM camber spec, and have any tried and true track settings?

[ianerrid]

2010 R8 V10.
I tracked it with OEM Pirellis, then switched to 245 front/305 rear Bridgestone RE11's.
Lots of tire shredding understeer with the Pirellis, better, but still understeers with the RE11's.
I plan on giving it more negative camber in the front.

Any other experiences or suggestions? Anyone know the OEM camber spec, and have any tried and true track settings?

Turn off the TC and the Audi programmed understeer should turn into power induced oversteer.

[harrison]

At the track, and on the edge, on high speed sweepers , the rear end always gives out first. This is with 235-315 Hoosiers.This is with the TC off of course. Next rears will be 325 Hoosier. My tires and brakes wear quite evenly.What a beautifull set-up. Mess with your camber and let us all know how many seconds you shave off of your lap times Bro.

[MotherTucker]

I reduce the tire pressure in the fronts to 36 PSI (to match the rears), and that makes it very well balanced, at least in my car. I have the H&R springs and have maxed out the front camber and run Hoosier R6's at the track.

mt

[thunder]

I reduce the tire pressure in the fronts to 36 PSI (to match the rears), and that makes it very well balanced, at least in my car. I have the H&R springs and have maxed out the front camber and run Hoosier R6's at the track.

mt

Thanks
Is the 36 psi pressure hot or cold?

[Europrice]

Well first obvious move, which I assume you do on track, TC off. I can't even drive on track with any of this junk on, completely invasive.

Second, look at tire pressures. As suggested you may want to alter front/rear tire pressures.

Take a peak here:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=58

If you are going to move to a more aggressive alignment, max front negative camber, zero toe with factory rear camber and factory toe-in style rear alignment.

Increase your front traction, fit the widest tire you can up front.

Lots of methods to play with and I'd likely start with tire pressures and alter 1-2lbs per sessions (cold) to see how it makes the car behave. If pressures can't overcome the understeer issue take a look at alignment and tire choice. Also make certain you are entering corners at the proper speed for that specific corner with your setup. Coming in like a lamb and out like a lion can still apply even to an R8 and use some of that power to overwhelm the rear traction if you feel understeer coming power-on out of the corner.

Cheers,

[MotherTucker]

Thanks
Is the 36 psi pressure hot or cold?

HOT. That's critically important, as the cold pressure will go up by 6 to 10 PSI at least, depending on how hot the weather is and how hot you get the brakes.

I put 32 in all 4 tires in the morning, and then right after the first session, check the pressures and bleed off excess pressure to get to 36 all around. That works really well for me.

mt

[biggie27]

SLOW DOWN !!!!!! ...........just kidding :P

[desperado]

SLOW DOWN !!!!!! ...........just kidding :P

Actually, that was my immediate thought also. Slow in, fast out.


I also agree with 36 hot when running the R6. I ended up there after trying higher pressures but they just didn't work well with the limited negative camber available in the car. Again, this is for the R6.