DIY audio build, the fuse is lit... - Page 2


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Thread: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

  1. #11
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Hi & thanks again!

    I am going to completely remove the B&O amp, use the Audison to run the front door 3 way comps, then run the rear speakers off the head unit as I only run them quiet anyway

    I have a spare Cerwin B1 amp lying around so thought I could use that to power the existing B&O sub and see what happens! Do you know how I can access the B&O sub's input? I can't see a corresponding output from the B&O amp pinout diagram...

    If you look on here - it refers to treble, mid range and bass speakers of which there are 3 on each side of the front. I am assuming this refers to the 2 door speakers and the dash tweeter, Is this correct?

    https://www.r8talk.com/forums/attach...p-39969846.pdf

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  3. #12
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Quote Originally Posted by jakesmith View Post
    Also if I go for 8" subs in the doors - that only leaves me with 3" and tweeters. Seems to be a shortage of 3" component sets on the market?
    you need a 8" that does sub, upper bass, kick and low midrange.
    The best combo I know for the R8 is:
    8": Hertz HV200,
    mid: Scanspeak 10F
    tweeter: Scanspeak R2004/602000 or if you like a more softer one the D2904 (more expensive)

    this combo can play very well AND loud :-)

    forget the B&O sub. Do the doors and amp right and you don't need a seperate sub.
    Last edited by Helldriver; 03-22-2019 at 10:03 AM.
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  4. #13
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Thanks again for all the help. I will post back with progress. Have decided to stick with my choice of 6.5" comp 3 ways in the doors as I can't do metal fabrication and had already ordered them from abroad but I will also fabricate a custom MDF rear shelf sub box with 2x 8" Hertz subs in so that should cover all the frequencies

    One question, any tips on getting the power cable through the firewall / bulkhead at the front? Any grommits / blanking grommits behind the battery area? On the Porsche 997 I did there was the hole for the opposite side drive steering column with a big grommet in it - made things nice & easy!

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  6. #14
    Senior Member TheCzarofMexico's Avatar
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    I would think you could grab power off the lug that gives power to the fuse box behind the right seat on the shelf.
    Bill Winters - 2012 V10|R-Tronic|Cactus green w/ carbon blades|CCB|Forgeline VX3C's & R888's|LPF Twin turbo kit tuned by Eurocharged: 753/531 @ 1/2 bar

  7. #15
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Quote Originally Posted by TheCzarofMexico View Post
    I would think you could grab power off the lug that gives power to the fuse box behind the right seat on the shelf.
    bad idea....unless you make sure that you never ever have the amp running while starting the car. Fastest and 100% secure way to kill the Audison amp if you do...

    behind the B&O sub (need to take it out) in the firewall you will find a cover plate for the steering column of the RHD cars.Do it the same way as on your 911...suggest to route a negative cable to the amp too as R8 is aluminium...
    Alternativly you can use the main power cable of the fuse box in the drivers side foot space. For the Audison 4-channel thats ok.

    the B&O sub channel is created inside the DSP from the 4 front&back channels and the B&O sub output is too much for the cervin amp input. you need to connect it inside and directly to the DSP of the B&O amp to be able to run it from your cervin amp. Suggest to use the RCA sub out of the Alpine connected to the cervin amp to power the B&O sub.
    Last edited by Helldriver; 03-22-2019 at 04:03 PM.
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  8. #16
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Quote Originally Posted by Helldriver View Post
    bad idea....unless you make sure that you never ever have the amp running while starting the car. Fastest and 100% secure way to kill the Audison amp if you do...

    behind the B&O sub (need to take it out) .
    Why is that? Something to do with that fuse box powering the starter or something?
    How do you take B&O sub out - is it above that panel in the passenger footwell, above the main fuse board? Do you have to disassemble much else to get it out?

  9. #17
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Also just checking but I have bought 2x Hertz 8" subs that are rated at 200w each @ 4ohm
    Can I wire them in parallel & drive from my mono Cerwin B1 - it is rated at 500w at 2ohm

  10. #18
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    I've done it all now apart from neaten up the wires a bit and put the sub box in. With the exception of the head unit it is all OEM looking with nothing visible to show that the system is all replaced

    I've posted my head unit elsewhere on here - it is the Alpine Halo9 with a very homemade bezel. The bezel really does look fine once the unit is in. I am going to get a better one CNC-ed and carbon skinned when I get round to it but it looks fine for now. The head unit itself is good - installing that alone was a big step up in sound quality





























    Took the door cards off - it is exceptionally easy and the doors are a better design than the Porsche 987 I did last year. Very easy to get the door cards off without breaking anything - all you need is a plastic trim tool set and a T25 & T30 torx driver. There are about 3-4 screws on each door & the rest is poppers that, unlike the Porsche, you can take off without breaking them, I bought x10 spares but didn't need them. On the Pork I took 20 off and needed 10 new ones.

    Applied loads of Silent Coat 2mm deadening inside the doors - they do block out a load of road noise & hopefully prevent vibration in the door. I only needed x6 sheets per door. Porsche was more like 15 sheets per door, because the R8 has a load of sound deadening on it already. It is designed in a way that doesn't leave lots of space to put the sheets on the inner card. The Porsche has 3 surfaces to mount it to - the inner, outer and the metal membrane








    Anyway, took the B&O speakers off and boy do they look like cheap crap when you get them off the car. Lightweight, paper cones. When you take them off they do not leave a standard mounting pattern of course. I simply do not know why car makers do this. It is a pain to replace them but anyone willing to take a door card off will be more than able to fabricate an MDF mount - see photos

    I bought Rainbow Soundline Pro 3 way components for about £400 ($500) they are substantially better than the B&O speakers and sit well above basic ALpine type stuff. Obviously you can spend a lot more but this is the sweet spot for me - a big step up in quality without spending £1000's. I can't see the point in spending a lot more in a sports car, the fine detail would be lost in that environment

    I know the Rainbow speakers aren't all the right way around but it doesn't make any difference to the sound and they are positioned so that there is minimal cabling in the car









    Here's the crappy B&O amp. 3 screws to get out. Only issue is the huge multipin connector - it is not proprietory though & is shared with Bose in the Porsche. So I ordered a plug with every pin cabled from the US (am in the UK) which cost £60 ($100)!!! The thing is it lets you tap into all the car's speaker lines without cutting anything -so when I sell I can put it back to stock easily.

    Replaced it with a Hertz Power 5 amp that does 4x 100W and 1x 550W for the sub - ample power. Got the Rainbow speakers running off 4 channels of the amp - 2 channels run the 6.5" woofers, 2 channels run the crossovers which in turn drive the 3" mid ranges and the tweeters in the A pillars which are also very easy to get off & on - didn't get a photo but the tweeters pop out easily and loads of space to put new ones in

    I used the car's B&O sub as I'm waiting for my custom box to come for my subs. It is OK but lacks clarity

    I did take the time to wrap all the cable runs in tesa tape to prevent any vibration, rattling etc. Ran the power cables up one side of the car under the sill plate. Ran the speaker lines & RCAs up the other side to prevent interference. Forgot to take any snaps but you can see it wrapped up on the bench

    BTW answering my own question from elsewhere - the sub is not called out as such on the circuit diagram. It is called 'centre speaker' FFS

    Tested every speaker line with a multimeter to make sure all the speakers had correct polarity















    I've ordered a sub box - was going to make it myself but can't be bothered! It's £65 carpeted to match the car and is only 14cm deep, will sit on the rear shelf with the subs visible, I bought 2x 8" Hertx subs to run in parallel off the amp. Will update photos when that comes next week

    I need to tidy up the wires on the back bench - shorten them where possible and wrap up - but my tesa tape ran out - got another one coming to finish the job

    It has taken about 4 days -
    Day 1 - remove & replace head unit, set up canbus adapter for steering buttons, fabricate bezel
    Day 2 - run power from battery to passenger compartment - involves removing wiper arms and all the front trunk trim, passing it through the front firewall, then remove B&O amp, grind off nut that is in the way, make new looms & run all up the sides of the car
    Day 3 - strip door cards & old speakers off. soundproof doors, fabricate new speaker mounts, fit speakers
    Day 4 - make up amp connection loom, install, test, put amp in, connect & test all, replace door cards, set up system
    Day 5 (to be done) - will be a morning's work - neaten up cables, fine tune system, put sub box in


    I have done a basic setup of the head units crossovers, amp's crossovers and gains, time alignment, fader etc. Need to drive around in it for a bit and understand what I need to tweak... but the sound is simply ridiculous compared to the B&O - volume, control and quality are all in a different league

    All in it has cost me £1850 which is about $2700 but the gear is cheaper in the US. I have really enjoyed it & done the whole thing without breaking anything and it all worked first time. You would need to pay an installer a fair bit to put all this in. It is not a difficult project.
    Last edited by jakesmith; 04-04-2019 at 02:52 PM.

  11. #19
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Glad you guys love it!! LOL

  12. #20
    Senior Member TheCzarofMexico's Avatar
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Looks (and I'm sure sounds) great! Does that Alpine do wireless carplay?
    Bill Winters - 2012 V10|R-Tronic|Cactus green w/ carbon blades|CCB|Forgeline VX3C's & R888's|LPF Twin turbo kit tuned by Eurocharged: 753/531 @ 1/2 bar

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