DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...


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Thread: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

  1. #1
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    DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    I have just bought the gear for a DIY audio build eeeek

    Have bought:
    - Alpine Halo 9 head unit with some 2mm card & carbon wrap to make the panel behind. This is the one with the big 'floating' tablet look that covers the entire gap left when removing the RNS-E
    - Audison Prima 4D 4 channel class D amp, to be installed where the B&O amp currently sits, to drive the door 3 way components
    - Rainbow SL-C6.3 PRO semi-active 3 way components for the doors - woofers driven by 2 amp channels & the mid & tweet share a crossover powered by another 2 channels of the amp
    - B&O plug loom - expensive from the states - this is so I can tap into the car's speaker lines without having to cut / splice the car's loom so I can put it back to stock easily afterwards if needed
    - 30 sheets of silent coat for the doors
    - Autoleads Control PRO 2 Steering Wheel interface CP2 VAG52 - so I can retain steering controls

    All in has cost £1300 or about $1700. NOrmally I would sell off the B&O stuff, amp, and the RNS-E to fund this, I have done this in my other cars but gut feel is the Audi needs to have its original kit with it for resale

    That's it for now - the beauty of this install is that I can use the B&O amp's power cable, and I will also use the existing wires that take the audio to the B&O amp for the signal - so I will not need to remove the whole frunk & associated plastic panels, as I i'll not need to connect additional feeds to the battery. The existing circuit and fuse for the B&O amp are rated sufficient for the new amp so that will save me hours of fishing power cables through the front bulkhead. Also I will not need to remove the center console which looks a hassle, to get any cables to the rear bench as I am using the existing connections

    If there is not enough bass I will then add a home made box for the rear shelf with 2x Hertz 8" subs, then I will need to take the above steps to add an amp.

    So all in all, it is a low effort way of substantially improving the sound and functionality in the car as doesn't involve too much stripping down. Will report back!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member TheCzarofMexico's Avatar
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    I've not heard of that steering wheel interface. Does it also do parking sensors?
    Bill Winters - 2012 V10|R-Tronic|Cactus green w/ carbon blades|CCB|Forgeline VX3C's & R888's|LPF Twin turbo kit tuned by Eurocharged: 753/531 @ 1/2 bar

  4. #3
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Does anyone know how the B&O sub is fed it's input signal - there doesn't seem to be a corresponding output on the B&O amp connector diagram, nor is there a line output from the RNS-E or a corresponding fuse to indicate it might be an active / powered unit

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  6. #4
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Quote Originally Posted by TheCzarofMexico View Post
    I've not heard of that steering wheel interface. Does it also do parking sensors?
    No, justthe remote buttons but I don't have the optical parking system option so won't make a difference

  7. #5
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Quote Originally Posted by jakesmith View Post
    I have just bought the gear for a DIY audio build eeeek

    Have bought:
    - Alpine Halo 9 head unit with some 2mm card & carbon wrap to make the panel behind. This is the one with the big 'floating' tablet look that covers the entire gap left when removing the RNS-E
    - Audison Prima 4D 4 channel class D amp, to be installed where the B&O amp currently sits, to drive the door 3 way components
    - Rainbow SL-C6.3 PRO semi-active 3 way components for the doors - woofers driven by 2 amp channels & the mid & tweet share a crossover powered by another 2 channels of the amp
    - B&O plug loom - expensive from the states - this is so I can tap into the car's speaker lines without having to cut / splice the car's loom so I can put it back to stock easily afterwards if needed
    - 30 sheets of silent coat for the doors
    - Autoleads Control PRO 2 Steering Wheel interface CP2 VAG52 - so I can retain steering controls

    All in has cost £1300 or about $1700. NOrmally I would sell off the B&O stuff, amp, and the RNS-E to fund this, I have done this in my other cars but gut feel is the Audi needs to have its original kit with it for resale

    That's it for now - the beauty of this install is that I can use the B&O amp's power cable, and I will also use the existing wires that take the audio to the B&O amp for the signal - so I will not need to remove the whole frunk & associated plastic panels, as I i'll not need to connect additional feeds to the battery. The existing circuit and fuse for the B&O amp are rated sufficient for the new amp so that will save me hours of fishing power cables through the front bulkhead. Also I will not need to remove the center console which looks a hassle, to get any cables to the rear bench as I am using the existing connections

    If there is not enough bass I will then add a home made box for the rear shelf with 2x Hertz 8" subs, then I will need to take the above steps to add an amp.

    So all in all, it is a low effort way of substantially improving the sound and functionality in the car as doesn't involve too much stripping down. Will report back!
    Happy building.

    just some hints:
    - power cable to B&O is not sufficent at all, one of the B&O's limitiations....
    - this 4 channel audision amp doesn't deliver much more power to the speakers then B&O does...so you won't get any till little improvement out of this. But you will get most likely a lot of generator wine and other eletronic gismos as the B&O cabling is poorly grounded and isolated.
    I suggest just put the alpine in with the B&O and check this out. B&O sounds much better and louder with the alpine instead of stoneage RSNE
    if you decide to go further:
    - to have a proper 3 way system that can play fullrange well, a) you need to put 8" low/bass speakers in the door and they will fit b) Bass needs 180W-200 real Watts per channel c) mid and high need separate amp channels, run it full active which means you need min. 6 channel amp...
    - if you have a prefacelift, open up the B&O amp: you can split the DSP from the amps, the best way to integrate more powerfull amps but keep the B&O sound engeneering and DSP(which is the expensive and hard part to do well). Don't get a B&O loom, get a 2nd B&O preface amp....2nd amp can go next to the B&o amp.
    - best way to integrate a sub is side driver foot room => best place for the amp, short power and chinch cables (small mono amp) and for the bass enclosure a corner position which adds +6db to the deep bass. Means one 8" longstroke sub choosen well in 10l enclosure with 700W amp power will create earthquakes. as the 8" door bass speaker make a lot upper bass, the sub can fully concentrate on very low frequencies, so a longstroke speaker like Kicker solobaric 8L7 is a good choice
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  8. #6
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Thanks for this really useful info

    Do the doors really accept 8" subs though? I thought they were 6 1/2" holes. If that is the case that changes things

    Whilst the Prima amp doesn't deliver much more power than the B&O, the B&O is using that to drive 12 speakers including a sub. I will be concentrating the 4 channels of the Audison amp on just the front L&R speakers

    OK looks like I will have to run power to the amp location then if I get interference, not a massive deal. The fuse for that amp is rated at 30A and the AUdison amp requires a 30A fuse so surely should be at least safe to test?

    I will try the head unit swap only first on your recommendation & see how much it improves things.

    Re the DSP and the speed sensitive volume I am not a fan & don't rate it, I would rather have a nice stereo soundstage, a tiny bit of rear fill (doesn't sound right to me without) and then put in the listening position distances for time delay. Use EQ to get the sound how I like it

    How would you find space for that sub in the footwell? How would it be orientated / laid out?

    Don't have the skill to open up & start modding the B&O amp

  9. #7
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Also if I go for 8" subs in the doors - that only leaves me with 3" and tweeters. Seems to be a shortage of 3" component sets on the market?

  10. #8
    Senior Member APOLLOSKI's Avatar
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    I was looking at the same Headunit, post some pics after your install!

  11. #9
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    Here is the guy who did it previously with lots of pics

    https://www.r8talk.com/forums/5-gene...acement-7.html

  12. #10
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    Re: DIY audio build, the fuse is lit...

    8" subs doors: you need metal adapter rings to fit them but you need that stabilisation anyhow that they sound right. but not all 8" will fit.

    amp: save to test yes. but you want to use the B&O amp for the rest of the channels in parallel or just the audison? Not enough for both in parallel. Its the power drop that the too small cable create and the amps power supply need to cope/be able to deal with that...well Audison power curcuits are not the best in that case...
    B&O uses the trick that only the sub and bass amps are "real" amp circuits with a steered power supply while all other channels are amp chips that amps the Input Signal by a fixed factor => the more and clean in = the louder and cleaner out...well RSNE delievers 1.8V out with poor quality=garbage in=garbage out...my external audison DSP bit one.1 delivers clean 5.6V into B&O amp :-) that will be amped with the same factor, so do the math :-) and then substract 30% of it as the power cable limits more output..but much better and louder then before.

    some R8 drivers like the B&O sound more if you change polarity of the door tweeters...

    speed sensitive volume can be switched off (needs coding) and I have done that, not a fan of it either.
    rear sound can be adapted via Fader.
    Last edited by Helldriver; 03-22-2019 at 09:44 AM.
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