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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all I’ve watched a number of videos on badge removal, but hoping some can chime in. I picked up the blacked out badges from R8stuff and planning an install this weekend. I’ve watched several videos, each a little different in technique to get best outcome. My car has a front bra PPF (hood, front bumper), should I just use the fishing line to avoid the heat to break the epoxy on the hood? Should I start with the back R8 logo and Audi rings then move to the front? Any specific rec’s for getting excess epoxy off paint (Goo be Gone?)

I have the following:
1. Painters tape to tape around old badges to ensure good placement of new badges
2. Heat Blower
3. Fishing line
 

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I have successfully used dental floss quite a few times to remove badges with a slow 'sawing' action keeping the floss as parallel with the body panel as possible.

I'm sure fine fishing line would work but there is that slight risk of scratching the paintwork very slightly. It will polish out so that's not a problem. I just find dental floss a little less of a worry.

When the badges are off, to remove the remaining part of the 3M type adhesive stuck to the panel, I have used both 'bug and tar remover' and also a little bit of WD40.

Once the old badge and glue are off then the main thing is to make sure that the panel is free of grease etc so that the new badge will adhere properly. I wipe the surface of the panel with a little methylated spirit (denatured alcohol) being careful not to put too much on as it will make the painters tape loosen. Then wipe with a clean microfibre cloth before applying the new badge.

On the occasions I have changed badges the weather has been fairly warm and I didn't find the need to use a heat blower.
 

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If you have ppf under the badge then it was removed one already and the adhesive is probably not as good as the OEM adhesive. I have ppf and replaced my badges with gloss black shortly after I did the ppf. Just use a low setting and move it around quickly the ppf will be fine. You definitely want to give it a good clean and a polish if you have a the outline of the badges. I would hit it with some isopropyl alcohol and wipe it down right before you place the new badges. Alternative method to taping which I would use if the area around the badge is dirty would be to use some Saran Wrap and mark a few edges along with where the badge is on it. That way you can use that as a template to get better placement on the new badges. I find that works better then tape especially on curved surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all. Good info regarding the PPF too. Was worried about the heat, but will surely put on low setting and keep line parallel to car. How long would you say the heat takes to break the epoxy bond holding the original badges? 2-3 minutes then start working the floss/fishing line?
 

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My main concern is getting the new badges in the exact correct place. I'm thinking of using a marker with removeable ink to trace around the rings. Sound like a good idea ?
 

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My main concern is getting the new badges in the exact correct place. I'm thinking of using a marker with removeable ink to trace around the rings. Sound like a good idea ?
I used masking tape, one line for the left of the badge and one line underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Dave. I am planning to use that blue painters tape just around the edges. Seems fairly easy for positioning new badges, just mainly was worried about applying any heat around the PPF areas on the hood.

My main concern is getting the new badges in the exact correct place. I'm thinking of using a marker with removeable ink to trace around the rings. Sound like a good idea ?
I used masking tape, one line for the left of the badge and one line underneath.
 

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You don't need much heat just a little to soften the adhesive, probably less heat than the ppf would get if parked in the sun for a few hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome can’t wait to get the new badges on. Good to know the epoxy separates at lower temps so should be an easy upgrade with some painters tape and floss/fishing line.

Also looking into the RS grill to replace my OEM black optic.

You don't need much heat just a little to soften the adhesive, probably less heat than the ppf would get if parked in the sun for a few hours.
 

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I use a hair dryer and goo-gone liberally for several minutes, let it soak and warm up. Then slowly as another mentioned, use some dental floss in a light saw-ing action.

As for lining the rings up again properly: There is always a little previous adhesive residue left over, it creates a "shadow" let's say. This is what I use to line up, and it's worked well on about 10 cars Ive done over the years.
 

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I use a hair dryer and goo-gone liberally for several minutes, let it soak and warm up. Then slowly as another mentioned, use some dental floss in a light saw-ing action.

As for lining the rings up again properly: There is always a little previous adhesive residue left over, it creates a "shadow" let's say. This is what I use to line up, and it's worked well on about 10 cars Ive done over the years.
Good to know... I was wondering if there would be a shading difference
 

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Got my new badges, and started process today. My experience has not been as some others described. This is one of the most tedious jobs I've ever done on a car. I spent 2 hours just removing one badge (front rings). Using a hair dryer, and having to use high heat and get the badge area very hot to even get started. Dental floss keeps breaking, and getting the floss through the badge is just the beginning. Black tape residue is left on the paint, and is a super pita to remove. I ended up using my fingernails and heat to get the bulk of the gunk off. If you try just using goo gone, it makes a huge mess. After scratching most of the tape off, I use goo gone to rub the rest of the glue off. As great as these emblems look, I would not do this again. I have over 2 hours invested, and have only done front rings, and one side "V10". What am I missing here ? Any advice ?
 
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