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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is one of the worst things anyone can do to any engine, but I know for a fact that a vehicle I'm considering purchasing (V8 Spyder) had this done to it a couple of times. Car hasn't even reached break-in mileage! The people (if you can call them that....) who are the warden for this vehicle think there is no problem in holding the engine off the rev limiter for 3-5 seconds all while the engine is stone cold (car is stored at high 20s Cº/ high 80s ºF).

I know that these engines tend to be somewhat reliable (except for the regular port cleaning required), but I'm not sure if doing this to such a vehicle will cause premature engine failure due to rings not sitting properly, or lack of proper lubrication, or something else. As mentioned earlier, I know this is a "no no" to any engine, but what about the 4.2 V8 in these models? Knowing this has happened, should I just forget about the car knowing that it's a ticking time bomb, or is it a case of "Italian tuning at its best"?
 

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Obviously not something you should be doing, but I am pretty sure on 1st gens there is a rev limiter function built into the ecu that doesn’t let you rev past 3500 until it warms up to a certain temp.


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If that was acceptable practice the gen2 V10 would not have a built in rev restrictor (to 6000 I think which is already quite high) until the oil reaches a certain temperature (which is less than normal operating temperature)

I can't see how a v8 would be any different. But it's always a risk when buying used - you really don't know how the previous owner(s) have treated the car. If it has only happened a few times I doubt there would be long term damage but if it's a daily obsession of the current owner to bounce it off the rev limiter cold instead of driving the car and warming it up, I'd probably walk away as you do not know what other questionable ownership practices they have been adopting.
 

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For what it's worth, I have a facelift 2014 V8 and the cold start limiter sits at 6K RPM.
 

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Every R8 has limiter at 6K when cold. It's in the user manual. From MY2010, when you turn ignition on, it's stated on the DIS. For previous MY, it doesn't show that on the DIS but if you read the manual, it's clearly stated and obviously makes sense.
 

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Makes me feel great that I have never heard the rev limiter on my car. I never do anything to the engine/car until every fluid has had plenty of time getting to optimum operating temperature. Of course once that level is reached......LET THE FUN BEGIN!! (y) :p:D
 

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This topic comes up every so often.

The oil has to reach to a certain temp to lubricate the engine right. Until then, the engine rev is limited. Although the general consensus is "do not push the car until the engine is warm", I've seen some people claiming "sooner the engine is warm is better" (cold, and less viscous, oil cannot lubricate the engine well, since it cannot flow fast enough.) Their argument seems a little counter intuitive to me; your engine cannot be lubricated, so run it faster to lubricate it quicker.

I would chose to follow manufacture's recommendation and do not push the car before it is ready.

As for this car, I do not know how to judge if the engine was affected one way or another...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I fully understand, and practice!, not to rev past 3/4K on an engine until it reaches regular operating temperature. Unfortunately for me, the "monkeys in charge" don't understand this and they don't have a clue as to what proper care of a vehicle is.

I find it odd that many of you have posted about the rev limiter in place until normal temps are reached, but I have a video (sent to me by error...) with the car, in neutral, being revved until the redline max rpm limiter is reached. This was done a couple of times and each time the limiter was cutting in for the 2-4 seconds he kept his foot planted to the floor. Then there is another scene where another idiot sits in the car and he films how he revs it up until ±7.5K rpms and no limiter came into effect.

For whatever it's worth, this car is Euro spec (not sure if the US versions are the one with the limiter based on temps). It's either a 2011 or 2012 model year (pre facelift) Gen 1 V8 Spyder with a total of 125 miles driven (not a typo...). Only reason why I'm considering this car is because it's a government auction and the starting bid price is about 30% of the car's market value and so far, nobody has shown interest in the car (tough economic situation down here for many people). If I can get it for a good price (including all of the pending maintenance issues) then I'd go for it, but was looking for the consensus of the R8 experts in this forum regarding potential engine damage due to revving up to redline in neutral while the car's temperatures (oil and water) have not had a chance to move as per the instrument cluster.
 

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I fully understand, and practice!, not to rev past 3/4K on an engine until it reaches regular operating temperature. Unfortunately for me, the "monkeys in charge" don't understand this and they don't have a clue as to what proper care of a vehicle is.

I find it odd that many of you have posted about the rev limiter in place until normal temps are reached, but I have a video (sent to me by error...) with the car, in neutral, being revved until the redline max rpm limiter is reached. This was done a couple of times and each time the limiter was cutting in for the 2-4 seconds he kept his foot planted to the floor. Then there is another scene where another idiot sits in the car and he films how he revs it up until ±7.5K rpms and no limiter came into effect.

For whatever it's worth, this car is Euro spec (not sure if the US versions are the one with the limiter based on temps). It's either a 2011 or 2012 model year (pre facelift) Gen 1 V8 Spyder with a total of 125 miles driven (not a typo...). Only reason why I'm considering this car is because it's a government auction and the starting bid price is about 30% of the car's market value and so far, nobody has shown interest in the car (tough economic situation down here for many people). If I can get it for a good price (including all of the pending maintenance issues) then I'd go for it, but was looking for the consensus of the R8 experts in this forum regarding potential engine damage due to revving up to redline in neutral while the car's temperatures (oil and water) have not had a chance to move as per the instrument cluster.
I don't believe there was any difference between geographies regarding the rev-limiter. I can only think of a few explanations for what you saw:

(a) The car was previously started and brought to temperature. The rev-limiter only cares about temperature, so a freshly started car that's still warm won't be limited. This would seem to be in conflict with your statement about the instrument cluster showing a cold engine.

(b) The car is tuned and has eliminated the rev-limiter. With only 125 miles, it seems odd that someone would have tuned it and never driven it.

People do some really ridiculous things, especially if it's not their car. I can only imagine the way some cars are abused by dealers and shops that are transient owners and just want to have some fun with them while its in their possession. Unfortunately, most used car purchases will come with some level of concern over how it was treated previously.

Without seeing the videos, it's hard to say how I'd feel. I don't think a few revs (by a moron taking videos for a sale) would be catastrophic - at least that's my gut instinct here. But, I also don't know the back-story on a 10 year old car that somehow only ends up with 125 miles and finds its way to a government auction! :) Everyone's situation will vary, but if you have a higher tolerance for potential issues, it sounds like it's worth bidding on. The revving may be the least of the issues. Again, the back-story may be more concerning. Was it annually serviced and just not driven very much? Or did someone put 125 miles on it ten years ago and the car sat, deferring a decade of maintenance? Those would probably be more critical questions for me.
 

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If you like the spec and can genuinely get this car for less than half price then I would chase this deal down. Assume nothing has been done to the car for maintenance. It must be one of the lowest mile R8s in existence and should be saved by an enthusiast.
 

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@125 miles for a 2011/2012, I wouldn't go anywhere near it, the repair costs are likely to be phenominal.

Though be interesting what a warranty company would pay out if you bought it under warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I agree with all of the posts above. The previous used cars I've bought have always been maintained at dealerships and I've known most of the history of the vehicles. They were always bough in "as new" condition, this one is the exception.

The story behind this is that the vehicle was purchased by an individual, drove it for 215 kms (133 miles), and then he promptly got into trouble with the authorities (not drug related). Car has been sitting for a few years, hence it has never been to the dealership, or anywhere else, for any kind of maintenance. I'll be inspecting the car in person tomorrow to make my final decision and will be based on the wear and tear (mold on interior bits, outdated tires, etc.) plus deferred maintenance costs (all filters and fluids changed, potential convertible top repair as it has been in the open position for a couple of years, etc.). The minimum bid price reflects the fact that the car does in fact need some items to be addressed in order of it to be in top shape, but at the end of the day, you end up with a 2011 V8 Spyder with 133 miles (Ice silver metallic exterior, black top, titanium finish double spoke wheels, black interior, full carbon package, B&O, and yes, R-Tronic). Do I wish it would be a V10 coupe facelift? Yes, but that would be about three times the price of this one once it has had all of the things that need taking care of solved.

Regarding bouncing off the redline rev limiter, here is a pic that shows the revs and the temperatures on the dash. As you will notice, they are all in the "stone cold" position. By the way, calling these idiots monkeys would be an insult to the primate family... I can't believe they did this and no clue as to how many times, if any other else, has been done. All I know is that they turn the engine over once in a while, keep air in the tires, and drive it inside the storage facility to move it from one spot to another. It's a gamble, I know, but say you could get this for pennies on the dollar, would you?

Screen Shot 2021-04-06 at 8.31.39 AM.png
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just for reference sake: saw the vehicle today and it was a sad moment to see how it is being stored (under 100% nylon cover in a very humid hangar) as well as the cosmetic condition (spiderwebs between seats/seatbelts, leather on doors starting to sag, mold all over the place, stains on some surfaces, etc.). Could not manually close the convertible top as all of the toolkit is missing. Mechanically speaking it is a "black hole" in the sense that all I know it that is has 220 kilometers and hasn't been in for service ever. Current repair estimates can range from $4K-$25K depending on what needs replacement. Mag ride alone is $15K locally. Not sure if I should bid on this or not. We shall see......
 

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Spider webs and dirt are cleanable. But...
That car has not been running for a decade. Unless there is a big, huge, ginormous discount, I would keep away from that car.
 
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