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Hello fellas I was wondering if someone knows what is the typical cost of brake jobs in our V10 pluses, a dealer in Miami quoted me 7,000 for all 4 ceramic rotors and pads, does this sound correct? I have already 13,000 miles on the car and why is that already have to change rotors and pads? Any suggestions for a trusted indi that I can go?
Appreciated guys from beautiful Florida,
 

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Seems like a short life if your car is mostly street driven and especially with CC brakes. What led up to the diagnosis that the brakes need major service?
 

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Seems like a short life if your car is mostly street driven and especially with CC brakes. What led up to the diagnosis that the brakes need major service?
Spited daily driving, come one no one knows what is the average brake jobs for our cars with CC?
 

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Rotors are supposed to last 100k miles unless you use them on the track. Pads should last 40k miles unless they are used on the track.
 

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Did you buy your car used? That makes no sense. I don’t care how spirited you street driving is. Your are not getting that much heat in the CCB to wear them that soon.

Track yes. I have never had to change my CCBs on any street driven car. Track cars yes, but I switch to steel for the track mostly.

But if you do, $7K seems reasonable at a dealer for OEM.
 

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$7K sounds about right for CCB rotors, pads, and labor.
But going thru it without tracking does not sound right.
 

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Sorry forgot to mention tracking car now and then but hard... Thanks for the input guys.
 

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CCB’s are not your friend if you track the car. This is one of the reasons I chose base over plus. They are too expensive if you track the car.


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CCB’s are not your friend if you track the car. This is one of the reasons I chose base over plus. They are too expensive if you track the car.


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...but they feel amazing with Castrol SRF racing fluid in the system no fade and crazy bite!!!
 

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...but they feel amazing with Castrol SRF racing fluid in the system no fade and crazy bite!!!
For sure, this isn’t about performance. If I had limitless money, I’d use them, but I don’t, so it’s SRF and steel for me!


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Hello fellas I was wondering if someone knows what is the typical cost of brake jobs in our V10 pluses, a dealer in Miami quoted me 7,000 for all 4 ceramic rotors and pads, does this sound correct?
Actually, it really is a good deal, if it includes the HW, labor, and taxes. I figure, they are charging you < $1400 for each rotor, which is about 50% off of best Audi dealer prices I know of.

Do you have a contact name I can call for parts?
 

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Sorry fellas upon calling the dealer and asking in detail they said they gave me the wrong prices this was for steel brakes, I was so pissed, but that's ok that is the price for being poor. :(:D
 

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Either that, or I am calling this dealership and ordering a few sets. This is seriously good price.
This is what I thought! I have heard CCBs all around would be more like 20ish.
 

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There are third party steel rotors (discs), like these from GiroDisc, that directly fit in where the carbon ceramic rotors go. This is a good switch, if you are going to track your car a lot.

However, the ceramic rotors should not be shot, even on the track, until you have gone through a several sets of OEM pads.

I tracked an 2011 R8 V10 with steel rotors for 6 years. With about 10 track days a year, I would get two or three years from steel rotors. Pagid Yellow track pads (rs-29, now RSL-29) would last for 10 track days, but I would burn through OEM pads in one long day, 2-3 hours, on the track.

Last year I switched to a 2017 V10 plus with ceramic rotors, after an unfortunate incident on the track with my 2011 - never drive on painted curbs in the rain; they are slick!

I burned through the OEM pads for the ceramics pretty quickly, in 5 track days. This was a little surprising, because these pads are supposed to be more like the Pagid Yellow track pads.

However, I have very little wear on the ceramic rotors so far.

Each track day for me is equivalent to 1000 to 2000 miles of street driving in wear, depending on how hard I push it. I expect to get 4 or 5 years (50 track days) out of the ceramic rotors, assuming the 100k street mile estimates are right.

For track, I have switched to Pagid RSC-1 pads, which are their least aggressive ceramic rotor pads.

 

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$20K just for the rotors and pads is pretty close to the list price. I do not know anybody who pays that much (unless it is a warranty replacement.)
Still, I am told, the cost of calipers to the vendors is about $1400 each. Adding $2900 for each rotor, plus the pads, plus mounting HW, adds up quickly.
 

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I burned through the OEM pads for the ceramics pretty quickly, in 5 track days. [...]

However, I have very little wear on the ceramic rotors so far.
I think you have a very good point. For rotor wear, Brembo says ”near zero”. Anecdotally, I hear 100K+ miles. And yet, I hear people being told they need a new set after 10K miles.

I think at at least some of these “you have to replace these rotors” claims may be the result of bad measurements. The new rotors are 32mm thick, and the minimum thickness is 31.6mm. That is, tolerances are very very tight.

If the shop does not have good caliper, well, you owe them $20K...
 

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I think at at least some of these “you have to replace these rotors” claims may be the result of bad measurements. The new rotors are 32mm thick, and the minimum thickness is 31.6mm. That is, tolerances are very very tight.

If the shop does not have good caliper, well, you owe them $20K...
According to the manuals, checking when a ceramic rotor is done is a three step process:

1) Check the thickness, engraved on every rotor ("min. thickness") to 1/10th of a millimeter.

2) If the thickness is within 0.2 mm (the thickness of two sheets of paper) of the minimum thickness, then weight the rotor on a scale accurate to 1 gram. There is a minimum permitted brake rotor weight ("min. weight") engraved on every rotor. The rotor must be clean and dry, including the rotor vent holes.

3) if the weight is within 20 grams of the min weight, then examine the wear indicators. There are three wear indicators on each side of the rotor. These are circular regions that are a different color from the rest of the rotor. Only when "a dark burned-out recess develops on the wear indicator" are the rotors truly done.

I suspect 2old4this is right: the dealer is calling a good rotor done, because of bad measurements.
 
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