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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimer: Do at your own risk. This information provided just for reference. Involves working with electrical and close proximity to airbags.

I see a lot of people tucking wires IN FRONT of the side airbags. Why?!? Always tuck your wire down the A pillar, windshield side. If your car doesn’t have side airbags, fine, wherever you want it.
A lazier way; Tap into mirror or console lighting for power. This is not the DIY for that. Nowadays, it’s just easier and cleaner for me to do “add a circuit” taps.

Require:
• Trim Removal Tool
• I would like to say T25 Torx Screw? You only have to mess with 2 screws
• Add A Circuit ATO Fuse Type
• Your device you’re trying to hardwire, in my case, BlackVue dr900 single ch
• Hardwire cable
Took me about an hour. Goo deal of it was trying to locate a good ground. Can probably do it in 20-30mins now

Broke the DIY into two post. First for running the power. Second for the mirror housing.

Onward!
1. Remove passenger floor mat and you'll see a big fuse carpeted access panel. It just pulls off.
2. Remove passenger side door vent cover; pulls towards you. Put a little force into it (#1 in picture)
3. Foreword here: This is the one and only step I would give extra care to. Be SUPER careful with your decorative trim (Carbon Fiber or Anthracite) as it’s sharp; super easy to gouge your leather dashboard exactly where I labeled 2A.

Audi Manual wants you to remove #3 (Speaker cover) first then #2 but I did it in reverse. I tried their order but just didn’t have the leverage. Always felt like I might slip and ding the speaker covers or worse, the leather.

Remove the defroster vent (#2 in picture) using a trim removal tool. Screw #1 here and best if you have a 90 degree ratcheting tool. This pulls upward BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE YET. Wiggly it a little bit to give you a bigger opening so you can access the GREEN LINE IN PICTURE to pop off the speaker cover.

4. Pry up the speaker covers (#3). I stuck in a trim tool and wiggled L/R and it came off. It is attached via a wire of some sort. Just move the cover out of the way. Now you can pull the trim and defrost panel in the previous step, STRAIGHT UPWARDS. Again, watch for your decorative trim as to not damage your dashboard.
5. Unclip Airbag screw cover on A pillar. It’s clipped on from the top so I would approach it from the top. Screw #2 here. Pull the entire side airbag cover towards driver direction.
6. I route and secured my wire behind the OEM wires (marked in blue). Wire came down behind the passenger side door vent, followed the top of carpet and your wire will be in the fuse access area.
7. I tapped into the homelink 5 amp fuse which is to the right of the 40 amp fuse. These are the ATO Fuses. Wasn’t going to tap into headlights or anything sensitive. Since Add a circuits are independent circuits, you can use 2 different amperage. Most dash cams and radars are under 1 amp. I believe I used a 2 amp fuse? I used the lowest amperage fuse included in the add a circuit package.
8. The power for my dash cam was two wires, as is for the radars. One for power and one for ground. Crimp the power into the add a circuit.
9. I couldn’t find a good grounding location. There’s a big screw on the right side of the fuse right under the glove box, but my tools couldn’t reach. I just jammed it behind one of the fuse access panel clips (see pic. Has been super secure thus far).
10. Reverse the steps to put it all back.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Part 2 was running the powered connector down the rearview mirror housing.
1. You remove the top part of the rearview mirror housing by twisting it counter clock house. Should pop off with ease. I didn’t remove the bottom part per picture.
2. In the housing piece that came off, I cut a small sliver in the grommet right where it meets the bottom housing, to allow for the wire to come out. If you really want to go back to stock, you could always order another piece but the grommet cut I did was sooo small, it can’t be noticeable.
3. Then snap the top piece back on clockwise, make sure it clips into the bottom piece.

Side note: I *think* it was a bad idea to placed my dash camera directly below the rearview mirror housing. Might have impeded part of the Auto High Beam assist sensor. I was trying to make the camera as unobtrusive as possible from my POV. I'll try moving my camera down half an inch to see if it still messes with the sensor.
 

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Great work, and thanks for your valuable contribution. This is very timely for me as I about to install a BackVue
 

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Thanks for this DIY, it's very helpful. I am starting to install a camera on my 2017, but according to my manual the fuse you tapped into isn't the homelink fuse, its the automatic dimming rear view mirror. Not sure if that makes any difference to your install.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for this DIY, it's very helpful. I am starting to install a camera on my 2017, but according to my manual the fuse you tapped into isn't the homelink fuse, its the automatic dimming rear view mirror. Not sure if that makes any difference to your install.
I don’t have the car anymore so I’m not sure. Regardless, I only tap into non crucial stuff so mirror or home link, they’re fine lol.


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I was trying to do this mod in a 2009, fuse location B8 which has a 10amp fuse for garage opener. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong but I keep blowing the 3amp fuse (gone through 5 already) in the add a circuit each time I try to test and power on the Uniden R3 radar detector. Only thing I can think of is maybe the ground is not good enough - I’m using one of the small screws top right of the fuse box panel. Any suggestions?


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Assuming you are using the right fuse, and 3A is what you need...

Are you sure you are not getting a spike in your input? Cars are known to have those, especially when you are first starting them up. Even a small one can blow a 3A fuse.

Anytime I add any new device on a car, for its power, I add an inline voltage regulator (and fuses before and after it.) Something like the following would do


So, you can use your “add a circuit” to get the positive, and get the ground from the screw you are using. Feed those to the regulator. The output will be a clean 12V. And yet, add another inline fuse on +, like the one in the following link, before feeding the power to your device.


At this point, if your inline fuse still keeps blowing, your device might be faulty...
 

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Thanks for the input. I requested a replacement hardwire kit to be sure there is nothing wrong with the wiring. I’ve never had any issues with the coiled cig power cable.


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