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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright everyone, I need some help. A few months ago I drove the car for the first time in awhile and got the ESP Fault and EPC light, went into limp mode, and had a horrible idle. Towed it to a shop that specializes in European cars and has a certified Lambo technician thinking they would get it done right, they apparently cleaned the connectors on the MAF Sensors and said it was good, said they drove it and didn't have the issue after that. Drove it home, then next time I drove it about a week later, same thing happened.

Took it back to the shop, they said one throttle body was bad and needed to be replaced but recommended just doing both due to the mileage (56,000) for $3000 and said that was 100% what the problem was, sounded weird to me but had them do it. Also had them repair the oil pump leak and timing cover leak all for a total of $7000. They said they drove it and the problem was resolved. I drove the car home and it was fine.

Then I hadn't driven it in awhile again due to CO weather and the battery died. Jumped the car, drove it around for about 5 minutes to get the battery charged, got the same ESP Fault again and limp mode so I decided to change the battery. I remember seeing a thread that a bad battery can cause those faults so I figured what the hell, $300 for a battery I'll do it. Put in the new battery today drove it around for about 15 minutes, then got ESP Fault and limp mode with the rough idle again.

I'm at a loss for what to do. With the battery I'm over $7500 deep into repairs trying to track down this issue, and I'm reluctant to bring it somewhere and have them keep replacing things that may not be the real issue. I don't wat to take it somewhere else and spend more when I may be able to take it back to that shop and have some work warrantied, but I also don't know if I trust them to fix the problem.

So to wrap this up, does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? If so, should I just take it to an Audi dealership, or take it back to that shop so they can fix their mistakes and hope they actually fix it this time.
 

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Hate that for you , but it’s hard to know what’s going on . Can be so many things from a supply relay which is like a 10.00 fix to a cam sensor which can all cause limp mode and a rough idle . I would almost bet it’s a supply relay causing all the problems
 

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I'd just take it to Audi. It's not necessarily anything against the independent - sometimes issues are tricky to track done, but in other cases they're just a bit in the dark and don't have the support network (back to corporate) to lean on if the problem is challenging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It was scanned with an OBD Eleven tool right before I had the throttle bodies replaced in January, here's the codes I got and frankly I don't know what any of them mean. I attached the scan but I'm not sure if it will be viewable. I'm not sure what codes it will have now, but since the exact same thing is happening I'd assume it's the same codes.

It really frustrates me when cars have completely irrelevant codes and/or lights thrown for issues that are in no way related, it just makes tracking issues down so much harder.

Frankly I don't want to take it anywhere, including Audi, until I get some census on what could be the real cause of the issue which is why I posted it on the forum hoping someone has gone through the exact scenario I'm in. I've never been a huge fan of handing any car over to a shop and paying for not-needed repairs for months and months until they finally track down the real issue. Although I understand they may know exactly what to do and fix it on the first try for $100, I have no desire to spend $20,000 replacing one thing after another to finally discover what the issue was if they don't figure it out on the first try. I spent thousands taking it to that other shop so they could experiment with what the issue was, and now I'm $7000 poorer with the same issue as before.

P192300 - Check DTC memory of
Engine Control Module (ECM) 2
static

02635 - Tuner not enabled/activated
static

01314 - Engine control module (ECM)
static
P185700 - Load Signal
Error Message from Engine Contr.
Intermittent
01316 - Brake control module
static

P302500 - Throttle drive 2 angle sensor 1
Implausible signal
static
P154500 - Throttle valve control system
Malfunction
static
P303100 - Throttle valve drive 2
Electrical error in circuit
static

00446 - Function limitation due to insufficient voltage
Intermittent
00532 - Supply voltage
Intermittent
00532 - Supply voltage
Intermittent
00446 - Function limitation due to insufficient voltage
Intermittent
02446 - Drive, mechanical malfunction
Intermittent
03157 - Function restriction due to communication interruption
Intermittent
 

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Hi

Yes, that's the problem when people can't read and understand error code correctly.

Then parts are swapped wildly.

It is important to read out and save errors, then delete errors and move the vehicle until the check lamp appears, let the engine run and read out the error again. Correctly interpret this error code and take action.

In the measured value block of the engine control units, you can see why there are faults in the TB, you just have to select the correct measured value block.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi

Yes, that's the problem when people can't read and understand error code correctly.

Then parts are swapped wildly.

It is important to read out and save errors, then delete errors and move the vehicle until the check lamp appears, let the engine run and read out the error again. Correctly interpret this error code and take action.

In the measured value block of the engine control units, you can see why there are faults in the TB, you just have to select the correct measured value block.

Tom
Tom, to be honest you might as well have been speaking German because that didn't make much sense to me. I understand clearing codes and working things around to try to track down an error, but the shop is the one that did the repairs, not me (other than the battery).

The last sentence you posted, what does that mean? Can you break it down down to simple mans terms for me and point me towards what might be causing the problem?
 

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Hi

With a PC program called VCDS you can open the channels in the ECU where you can see how the TB works or not electrically.

With VCDS you can carry out final control diagnosis and check all switches for function.

But it doesn't make sense if the operator doesn't know how to run an error analysis.

You need a workshop that has a good diagnostic investigator.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright so I'm looking for someone on here to offer advice on what may be wrong given the circumstances I've mentioned, not simply tell me to take it to a shop to get the issue diagnosed. I don't live within 30 minutes of any reputable shop, and frankly I don't have much free time to spend over an hour taking the car to a shop right now, which is why I want to get some opinions before I try to drive the car in limp mode such a long distance.

I know tons of people have had the ESP Fault and a very similar issue to what I'm having, the problem is a lot of people have had completely different solutions. I understand this problem can be hard to track down, but based on what I've said so far, does anybody have any specific recommendations? So far I've heard a supply relay and cam sensor.
 

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Hey man, sorry to hear you're going through this. I don't have your car in front of me but your DTCs could be hinting something I've seen before.

Can you open your engine bay and without touching them, take a photograph of your intake hoses from above? After you take the picture, see if you can spot any cracks/dimples/abnormality in the appearance of the intake hose and report back here.

263254
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey man, sorry to hear you're going through this. I don't have your car in front of me but your DTCs could be hinting something I've seen before.

Can you open your engine bay and without touching them, take a photograph of your intake hoses from above? After you take the picture, see if you can spot any cracks/dimples/abnormality in the appearance of the intake hose and report back here.

View attachment 263254
Absolutely, I'll grab a picture when I get home.
 

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Absolutely, I'll grab a picture when I get home.
I took a look at my car yesterday so before I forget or just in case I miss your reply - it's extremely easy to get garbage inside of your intake ducts and ruin your air filters. If the air filters can't provide the air your engine is demanding then you'll have negative pressure in the hose which will collapse it under load potentially damaging it and creating air leaks + inhibit your throttle valves from moving properly causing those codes that you see.

If you see cracks/dimples/abnormality on your intake hoses then this is VERY LIKELY your problem.

If you do not then I still think there's a good chance this is your problem based on the repairs that the shop has already done and how the code came right back.

It's an easy fix that you can do yourself and the parts shouldn't be that expensive so even if this isn't the problem (I really think it is) you won't spend a ton of money fixing it. Do both of them - trust me you can do this yourself.

You need to buy and install (All for 2011 V10):

(2) - Air Filter - Priced Each
(2) - HOSE
(1) - Intake Hose Union - Priced Each
(1) - Pinch Clamp - Priced Each
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took a look at my car yesterday so before I forget or just in case I miss your reply - it's extremely easy to get garbage inside of your intake ducts and ruin your air filters. If the air filters can't provide the air your engine is demanding then you'll have negative pressure in the hose which will collapse it under load potentially damaging it and creating air leaks + inhibit your throttle valves from moving properly causing those codes that you see.

If you see cracks/dimples/abnormality on your intake hoses then this is VERY LIKELY your problem.

If you do not then I still think there's a good chance this is your problem based on the repairs that the shop has already done and how the code came right back.

It's an easy fix that you can do yourself and the parts shouldn't be that expensive so even if this isn't the problem (I really think it is) you won't spend a ton of money fixing it. Do both of them - trust me you can do this yourself.

You need to buy and install (All for 2011 V10):

(2) - Air Filter - Priced Each
(2) - HOSE
(1) - Intake Hose Union - Priced Each
(1) - Pinch Clamp - Priced Each
Sorry for the delay, hadn't been to the house in a few days.

I'll look at that closer, but there didn't appear to be anything wrong with the hoses, and I believe they cleaned the filter when they did the work, but it wouldn't hurt to replace that stuff anyway. I drove the car around this weekend and didn't get the code, usually it comes on after about 20 minutes of driving but didn't this time.

I really appreciate your input, finally something that I haven't read before that is an actionable step I can take other than just bringing it back in.

263444
263445
263446
 

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Sorry for the delay, hadn't been to the house in a few days.

I'll look at that closer, but there didn't appear to be anything wrong with the hoses, and I believe they cleaned the filter when they did the work, but it wouldn't hurt to replace that stuff anyway. I drove the car around this weekend and didn't get the code, usually it comes on after about 20 minutes of driving but didn't this time.

I really appreciate your input, finally something that I haven't read before that is an actionable step I can take other than just bringing it back in.

View attachment 263444 View attachment 263445 View attachment 263446
Are the intake ducts free of debris/obstruction? (Behind the front tires)
 
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