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Any Advice on Extended warranties? Fidelity seems to be the most popular but just got a quote and they are 2x more expensive than Liberty Bell. I am also skeptical of Liberty Bell because I haven't heard much about them. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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The items people appear to use the warranty the most for in Gen 1 R8’s are AC for V8’s and mag ride shocks, both of which folks here have experience with Fidelity covering, so if it was me I would be reading the fine print to see if the items I was most concerned about are covered. does Liberty cover “shocks/struts” or are you getting the coverage more for catastrophic events?
 

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None of them cover shocks/struts. I saw on the forum that Audi's Extended Warranty does cover it but I put a call in to my local dealership to verify and get pricing on the Audi Pure Protection Plan. I've already had the AC compressor go out which set me back a cool 4k. I guess I am just trying to avoid getting by butt handed to me again.
 

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I don’t know why you think none cover mag shocks/struts, I know I’ve already had 2 covered by my non-Audi extended warranty and if you look at the many warranty threads most folks have had Fidelity cover mag-shocks/struts
 

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I looked at the history of my car (which does have a Fidelity Platinum warranty) and mag ride was covered under warranty.
 

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So, the two most popular (and most credible options) are (a) Fidelity Platinum and (b) Audi Pure Protection Platinum.

Both of these plans are considered "exclusionary" - this means that they call out a finite list of things that are NOT covered; everything else is considered covered. This differs from a typical (bargain basement) warranty that does the reverse - calls out a list of things that are included and leaves out a massive list of things that they won't cover. Exclusionary plans are the closest thing you can get to a factory warranty.

The Fidelity and Audi Pure Protection (APP) do differ in a few ways:

- Fidelity does NOT "technically" cover shocks. APP does cover them. However, many Fidelity plan holders have successfully had Fidelity cover shock replacements IF the shop putting in the warranty claim refers to them as "struts." While this may seem like a small nuance, it's been the difference of coverage vs. no coverage for some owners - so you're at the mercy of your shop/mechanic using the "right" terminology. Keep in mind that this is the equivalent of a loophole, and Fidelity could "close" it.

- Fidelity quotes coverage from the point of contract sale; APP is quoted from the car's in-service date. This may seem arbitrary, but it does mean you can likely get longer coverage on Fidelity. Additionally, transferability has historically been more flexible on Fidelity.

- APP has historically had more restrictive terms to acquire it. Some dealers have suggested that they can't sell you the warranty unless they sold you the car. Some have suggested the car can't be out of original warranty. Others have worked around both of those aforementioned constraints! So, in short, it's just been a trickier warranty to acquire.

I personally went for APP. My rationale? My car was still under original warranty, so APP was an easy option. I also felt that shocks were a major failure point, and I didn't want to rely on a loophole, that could be closed at any time, for coverage. Whether true or not, I also felt that APP would be "easier" for my Audi dealer to utilize. It's all "in house" similar to a factory warranty versus working with a third party. Now, that being said, it may not be an option for some - as I said, the rules seem to fluctuate. It's also been more expensive in many instances when compared to Fidelity, and as mentioned above, it comes with more restrictive terms related to transferability and coverage term.

But, at the end of the day, our members here have had excellent experiences with both. I wouldn't hesitate to get either. I WOULD hesitate, however, to buy an off-brand plan - way too many useless warranty companies out there.

While my plan is now a few years old, and the terms may have changed, I'll post the terms below that speak to suspension coverage and exclusions.

Suspension Coverage - note that struts AND shock absorbers are both called out.

260614


Exclusions - things that will NOT be covered...

260615
 

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Get the fidelity. I bought a 2014 v8 in 2018 and paid 4,500 for fidelity platinum. It already covered ac and 3 struts and paid for itself many times over. Your ac and your struts will go bad so better to pay for it now in the form of a warrant than down the line be hit with 15 k In repair bills. The price of the warranty is negotiable and you should bid it out.
 

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I second JuddS above. I got Fidelity for my '14 v8. Paid ~$5k in August for the 60k mile / 5 year. I had 26k miles so I'm covered up to August 2025.

They replaced all 4 of my struts ($10,800) without a problem. They also fixed my hood latch (~$400). AC so far has been fine. I have 39k on the car and going strong.

I do know prices for Fidelity have gone up considerably. There's another thread here on the forum. As I mentioned, I paid ~$5k. I think now they're going for ~$8k+ if memory serves me right. Still, at the end of the day, your mag ride will go. Then that's a $10k job. Pay $8k now for a $10k repair (+ peace of mind and coverage for AC which is another $10k?) - I will take that deal any day. If you intend to drive your car, it is worth it and every owner should consider it as part of the cost of ownership when buying a Gen 1 R8.
 

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I appreciate all the feedback, my one big hang up is everyone on this forum as roughly paid $3000-$5500/5-Year/$100 Deductible for their fidelity warranty. My quote came back at almost 8k for the same quote. My car is 2012 V8 with approx 23,500 miles. Not sure why mine is so high but that is the only reason I am considering other options. Liberty came back at $4400 with $0 deductible. Decisions, decisions...
 

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Dealer quote for my 2011 Coupe, 4.2L, 37,000 miles: Pure Protection Plan - $54,000. Yes $54,0000!!!! Don't remember the specifics, but yeah, I passed. Still don't have a warranty.
 

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Doesn’t this also have to do with the year of the vehicle??? I would assume an older model will be quoted higher as they may assume more work that would be coming up????

It was my understanding that they won’t offer a warranty if it’s over 10 plus years. Is that correct?

Also what if the car had struts and ac already replaced will this improve the quote ...? Maybe slightly less money as they may not have to put out for major work?????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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To clarify, my warranty was purchased for 10 years and 100,000 miles. It was bought in 2018 on a 2014 V8 that had 8,000 miles on it at the time. I paid about $4,500. I have heard on this forum that these warranty prices have gone up significantly, so I would assume that a 10 year 100,000 mile (if you can even get it) on a 2014 car would be in the 8k to 10k range at this point if not more. Perhaps a 10 year and 100k on a 2017 or 2018 model year would still be in the 5 to 6k range, but I am just speculating.

I really believe the fidelity warranties are a great investment if you are going to keep and drive your car. These warranties are priced by accounting people who know the statistics behind them. They know that the actual out of pocket costs for repairs will be more over the life of the warranty than you pay for the warranty. BUT, they price them below this because they also know that most people will sell these cars in a few years and the warranties are not transferable if a dealer is involved in the sale. So, Fidelity has made the bet that I will sell my car through a dealer before the 10 years and 100k miles are up (which I might) and so they sell it for less.

Aside from the piece of mind, the math tells me to buy a warranty on these cars.

Judd
 

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I appreciate all the feedback, my one big hang up is everyone on this forum as roughly paid $3000-$5500/5-Year/$100 Deductible for their fidelity warranty. My quote came back at almost 8k for the same quote. My car is 2012 V8 with approx 23,500 miles. Not sure why mine is so high but that is the only reason I am considering other options. Liberty came back at $4400 with $0 deductible. Decisions, decisions...
These warranties are hard to compare since there are various levers to pull in determining the price: (a) model year, (b) trim - coupe/spyder, (c) engine, (d) mileage, (e) geography, and of course (f) when and where it was bought. The best you can do is compare options that you're directly quoted for your unique car and situation.

I bought my APP Platinum coverage in 2018. It's a 10 year / 100k / $0 deductible and the price was $5,200. The car was a 2015 V10 with ~16k miles and still under factory warranty at the time. It's but one data point.

Prices on these warranties have definitely went up considerably in the last few years, as well. You wouldn't expect to get the same deal on an identical car today. Part of that is just simply that the identical car is several years older. Part of it is that these warranties were probably aggressively priced at the time. Part of it, as @JuddS points out, is that the company's pricing algorithm likely factors in only a small likelihood that you'd see it through the full term - buyer demographics tend to change as the cars get older, where people perhaps hold them longer than the early owners who flip more often? Who knows. But the point being - compare your options but don't try to compare them to others' previous deals.

Lastly, I'd say buy a quality plan. I'd rather have a $8k plan that will actually cover me than a $4k plan that will give me trouble.
 

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Is there any consideration for warranties from Carchex? Their Titanium plan seems pretty comprehensive with an exclusion list that does not list struts (indeed it says struts are covered).
I have a quote for a 7/70 plan on a 2017 coupe with 11k miles that is reasonable price compared to a similar duration Fidelity quote.
 

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I appreciate all the feedback, my one big hang up is everyone on this forum as roughly paid $3000-$5500/5-Year/$100 Deductible for their fidelity warranty. My quote came back at almost 8k for the same quote. My car is 2012 V8 with approx 23,500 miles. Not sure why mine is so high but that is the only reason I am considering other options. Liberty came back at $4400 with $0 deductible. Decisions, decisions...
Did you shop different dealerships? Warranty pricing is competitive just like car prices!

Good luck,
Jim
 

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I'm on my second extended gold warranty from Fidelity. I'm at about 80k miles and am covered for another 48k miles or until September 2024. Only cost me about $5909 with $100 deductible, but the AC already broke again so it basically paid for itself now.

One odd thing though is that my mag shocks have never gone bad yet... would it be obvious to tell that they need to be replaced?
 

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One odd thing though is that my mag shocks have never gone bad yet... would it be obvious to tell that they need to be replaced?
Yes. Have your dealer check them. Easiest way to see is with the wheels off / have it lifted. You should even be able to do it. Check with a flashlight in the wheel well and look at the towers. If they're seeping / leaking, there will be a oily residue on the metal. It will attract dirt and grit. You should also feel it going over bumps (the ride will be harsh, although it's possible after 80k miles you maybe have gotten used to it?)

I had mine replaced and it was like night / day.

What a deal you got on that warranty. But I'm not sure if gold covers struts?
 

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When my mag rides went bad, i didnt notice. I had put about 20k miles on the car and since they go bad slowly, i just didnt really realize the ride quality was deteriorating and deteriorating. Then when they put new ones in I was shocked at how much better the car rode. I bet yours are bad and your car rides rough and you just are used to it. A certified tech should be able to tell you if they have gone bad.
 
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