Gearbox Malfunction- 2011 V10 21k miles

2009 Views 34 Replies 11 Participants Last post by aquarianuw, 1 d ago

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

Hello all,
My 2011 V10 just turned 21k mles and I’ve owned it since it had 5600 mles and had bought it in August 2020.

I was getting on the highway from a ramp and was using paddles and I believe I downshifted to 2nd when I should have really either were to be in 3rd or maybe 4th and boom the Gearbox Malfunction popped up. I drove the car about 40 or so miles and it shifted totally fine but I drove it in Auto mode.Got home and plugged in my OBDeleven and it popped P0944- Hydraulic Unit Loss of Pressure code.
So I cleared the code and drove it to work the next day and it drove just fine and that was 25 miles. I took it easy and did not use the paddles and on the drive back, it popped the same message about 5 miles from home. So I got home and called Audi Frederick in Maryland as I service it there (really just been doing oil changes) and made an appointment 2 weeks out.
So I drove it to the dealer last Thursday and it shifted perfectly fine and with no error on the dash and I did not even clear the second one.
Audi Frederick called me on Friday stating that they could not replicate the error but it had been raining that day and they needed to repeat it on Monday when the roads are dry. So I got a call today stating that they need to further investigate and it would cost $300 as they have noticed that there is a communication error.
I do have Fidelity Platinum which I bought from Audi Frederick in 2020 and I’m hoping that it would cover the cost.
I have always driven the R8 with ease and have never abused it so I’m hoping it would be something minor. It’s been an excellent car and all I’ve done is simple oil changes every 5000 miles.
Please advise with any input and advice. Thank you!

21 - 35 of 35 Posts

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · #21 · 1 mo ago

Thank you so much. I’m going to call them first thing in the morning and share these.
I got a call from the service advisor and she stated that they are waiting for approval for the hydraulic pump from the Fidelity Platinum. Sadly the service advisors are just mouth pieces to what the mechanic is telling them.
I might just show up at the dealership with the print outs of these two items that you have provided.
Yes they are for sure just throwing parts without getting to the root cause.

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · #22 · 24 d ago

I provided the two recommendations to the Audi dealer and they stated that they had already checked all bulletins and think the hydraulic pump replacement will solve the issue so they ordered it after my warranty company approved it. The car has been with them for about 6 weeks now and the problem still exists.
I had lost the functionality of the Sport button about a year ago and so brought it to their attention and the service advisor stated that the tech feels that once the transmission issue is resolved the Sport button might start working? I’m not sure the two are related?

barbear1978

· #23 · 19 d ago

Jatjet, I feel your pain! I am currently battling a gearbox malfunction issue in my 2010 V10. P0944 popped twice in December, went away on it's own, popped again in January, then went away on it's own again! I'd shut it off and it would clear by morning. Car shifts as normal. I did end up buying a smart eMT F1 relay ECU and that has helped a lot in diagnosing the problem. Pump is activating after every shift, but code hasn't come back since I installed the relay back in March. I am at 63K miles and have owned the car for 2 years, putting only about 10K miles on it. It's been issue-free outside of this and a cracked coolant tank.

These semi-automatic, hydraulically-shifted transmission systems were created by McLaren waaaay back in the day for F1 racing and are installed in all these brands, named as: Ferrari as F1, Maserati as Cambiocorsa/DuoSelect, Lamborghini as E-Gear, Fiat & Alpha Romeo as Selespeed, BMW as SMG, Aston Martin as ASM/SSM, Lancia as DFN, Toyota as SMT, Audi R8 as R-Tronic. This is for multiple models across each brand. They all use mostly the same parts and have the same issues.

(fast forward to 6:25)

My issue is that the car is now 14 years old and the bladder in that original OEM accumulator is about to give up the goose, I feel. Due to that thinking, I am always driving on pins and needles (mostly, hehe)! I sourced a Magnetti Marelli accumulator (OEM part supplier) straight outta Berlin and I got a new e-pump off ebay for about 50% off. Getting them both installed next week for about $800, so I'll let you all know what comes of that.

See less See more

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · #24 · 9 d ago

barbear1978 said:
Jatjet, I feel your pain! I am currently battling a gearbox malfunction issue in my 2010 V10. P0944 popped twice in December, went away on it's own, popped again in January, then went away on it's own again! I'd shut it off and it would clear by morning. Car shifts as normal. I did end up buying a smart eMT F1 relay ECU and that has helped a lot in diagnosing the problem. Pump is activating after every shift, but code hasn't come back since I installed the relay back in March. I am at 63K miles and have owned the car for 2 years, putting only about 10K miles on it. It's been issue-free outside of this and a cracked coolant tank.

These semi-automatic, hydraulically-shifted transmission systems were created by McLaren waaaay back in the day for F1 racing and are installed in all these brands, named as: Ferrari as F1, Maserati as Cambiocorsa/DuoSelect, Lamborghini as E-Gear, Fiat & Alpha Romeo as Selespeed, BMW as SMG, Aston Martin as ASM/SSM, Lancia as DFN, Toyota as SMT, Audi R8 as R-Tronic. This is for multiple models across each brand. They all use mostly the same parts and have the same issues.

(fast forward to 6:25)

My issue is that the car is now 14 years old and the bladder in that original OEM accumulator is about to give up the goose, I feel. Due to that thinking, I am always driving on pins and needles (mostly, hehe)! I sourced a Magnetti Marelli accumulator (OEM part supplier) straight outta Berlin and I got a new e-pump off ebay for about 50% off. Getting them both installed next week for about $800, so I'll let you all know what comes of that.

I’m checking in to see if we’re able to get the accumulator installed and if that has solved the problem.
For mine, they have already changed -

Transmission Control Module
Pressure Accumulator

and that has not solved the problem so they are now replacing the Hydraulic Pump. The part arrived on Friday and they are going to install in next week.
I’m hoping that since P0944 points to Hydraulic Unit loss of Pressure, changing the pump should do it since the Pressure Accumulator is already brand new.

This will also include a transmission flush so once the Hydraulic pressure issue is resolved and new Transmission fluid put in, I should be in good shape.
I’ve never abused my R8 and so the transmission is in good shape otherwise. I bought it with only 5600 miles and it now has 21000 miles.
Please let me know any updates and I will be sure to do the same next week.

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · #25 · 9 d ago

barbear1978 said:
Jatjet, I feel your pain! I am currently battling a gearbox malfunction issue in my 2010 V10. P0944 popped twice in December, went away on it's own, popped again in January, then went away on it's own again! I'd shut it off and it would clear by morning. Car shifts as normal. I did end up buying a smart eMT F1 relay ECU and that has helped a lot in diagnosing the problem. Pump is activating after every shift, but code hasn't come back since I installed the relay back in March. I am at 63K miles and have owned the car for 2 years, putting only about 10K miles on it. It's been issue-free outside of this and a cracked coolant tank.

These semi-automatic, hydraulically-shifted transmission systems were created by McLaren waaaay back in the day for F1 racing and are installed in all these brands, named as: Ferrari as F1, Maserati as Cambiocorsa/DuoSelect, Lamborghini as E-Gear, Fiat & Alpha Romeo as Selespeed, BMW as SMG, Aston Martin as ASM/SSM, Lancia as DFN, Toyota as SMT, Audi R8 as R-Tronic. This is for multiple models across each brand. They all use mostly the same parts and have the same issues.

(fast forward to 6:25)

My issue is that the car is now 14 years old and the bladder in that original OEM accumulator is about to give up the goose, I feel. Due to that thinking, I am always driving on pins and needles (mostly, hehe)! I sourced a Magnetti Marelli accumulator (OEM part supplier) straight outta Berlin and I got a new e-pump off ebay for about 50% off. Getting them both installed next week for about $800, so I'll let you all know what comes of that.

Also, thanks for providing this great video. I have been driving the car in Auto mode a lot and less using paddles. Once it’s fixed I’m going to drive it with paddles as that would also save the transmission and the clutch.

barbear1978

· #26 · 8 d ago

Jatjet said:
Also, thanks for providing this great video. I have been driving the car in Auto mode a lot and less using paddles. Once it’s fixed I’m going to drive it with paddles as that would also save the transmission and the clutch.

Oh for sure!! It definitely helped me understand a lot behind the technology of the transmission. And also how far and wide the issue is spread amongst manufacturers. Still waiting for my repairs to get done, but only because I was unable to take it out last week.

Always drive in manual and in sport mode!! Shifting to neutral while coming to a stop is still up for debate. Some say it saves clutch wear and others say it leads to the issue we are both experiencing. Either way, drive it in manual so you are not constantly shifting like the computer thinks you should.

Jatjet

Discussion Starter · #27 · 8 d ago

Absolutely will be driving with shifters. With Sport button pressed each time and throughout the drive? My sport button stopped working a year ago so am having that fixed also

but wanted to confirm if it’s okay to have it in sport mode throughout?

Reactions: 1

barbear1978

· #28 · 7 d ago

Jatjet said:
Absolutely will be driving with shifters. With Sport button pressed each time and throughout the drive? My sport button stopped working a year ago so am having that fixed also but wanted to confirm if it’s okay to have it in sport mode throughout?

Yes, always in sport mode, I believe the guy in the video recommended it too!

skar829

· #29 · 7 d ago

barbear1978 said:
Some say it saves clutch wear and others say it leads to the issue we are both experiencing.

Just FYI, putting the shifter into neutral disengages the throw-out bearing from the diaphragm springs on the pressure plate, preventing unnecessary wear on the throw-out bearing. I can also see it preserving the pump too because the pump is not constantly working to provide the needed hydraulic pressure to keep the throw-out bearing engaged.

The R-Tronic system will actually disengage from first gear if you sit in traffic long enough and I've had that happen to me.

Reactions: 1

John doe

· #30 · 4 d ago

4

skar829 said:
Just FYI, putting the shifter into neutral disengages the throw-out bearing from the diaphragm springs on the pressure plate, preventing unnecessary wear on the throw-out bearing. I can also see it preserving the pump too because the pump is not constantly working to provide the needed hydraulic pressure to keep the throw-out bearing engaged.

The R-Tronic system will actually disengage from first gear if you sit in traffic long enough and I've had that happen to me.

I hate to be that guy but the clutch is always disengaged whilst the engine is running and the car is stationary, even in neutral. I asked the question many years ago as I'd observed it. I was linked a document which states "When the engine is running and the vehicle is stationary, the clutch is always disengaged.".

Ignition ON, engine OFF, Neutral

Ignition ON, engine ON, Neutral (this was after it auto shifted from 1st to Neutral).

Ignition ON, engine OFF, 1st gear

Ignition ON, engine ON, 1st gear (this was my first test whilst it was doing it's cold start)

On mine -300 is fully disengaged and 1000 is fully engaged. You can see it moves the gear selector forks both running and not, but never releases the clutch when running.

I left it for at least 3 minutes and the clutch never engaged. If it does release after a period of being in Neutral then I'm not sure how long it takes. I'm more than happy to be proven wrong, and as your profile says you did a transmission swap I'd think you're better placed than me to answer with authority. In fact if I'm wrong, great, as it means the bearings won't be unnecessarily worn when in Neutral!!

See less See more

skar829

· #31 · 4 d ago (Edited)

Thanks for providing this real world data. From this data then, it does look like the throw out bearing is always engaged no matter what for the RTronic system.

I take back my statement that the throw out is disengaged when in neutral. Neutral only means the fork selector mechanism is in neutral.

Why they designed this...doesn’t make sense to me since the system is now putting a huge amount of wear and tear on the hydraulic pump and the throw out bearing.

John doe

· #32 · 3 d ago (Edited)

Yeah it's really weird why they do this. As the post I linked suggests I was utterly perplexed as to why the clutch is always disengaged so had to ask if I was seeing things.
I can only assume it's an extra precaution to prevent the car engaging a gear by accident if some other mechanical issue occurs (like maybe if the forks are not in the position that the trans thinks they are).

aquarianuw

· #33 · 2 d ago

So clutch disengagement (open) means the throw-out bearing is engaged, is that right?

skar829

· #34 · 2 d ago

Yes, if clutch is disengaged (open), it means the throw-out bearing is engaged.

aquarianuw

· #35 · 1 d ago

So that means it's probably not necessary (from a common consensus) to even put the gear into N when stopping because the clutch will always be open during stationary.

21 - 35 of 35 Posts