our beloved Gen1 R8 is a fat cow for a real sportscar, especially if you consider the lightweight aluminum frame...real 1620 till 1690 kg for a V8 coupe depending on your options.
one of the main reason the stock V8 is considered to be lame.
target of the thread is to collect info, tips, parts etc. how to make your R8 lighter, end target is not a completly striped race car...end target is an as light as possible street R8 with full interior....reference is Tom's R8 with 1310kg with full interior and B&O...-330kg
Lotus fonder Colin Champ said the key for every sportscar: HP makes you fast on the straight, less weight everywhere
This in numbers means every -30kg less equals to +10hp more.
replace the stock exhaust with a lightweight titan exhaust:
OEM is 30kg
in Europe where you need certification the lightest one with an EU certification is the MTM titanum exhaust (it fits all V8 and V10), the MTM is 11kg, so -19kg and approx +30hp but it costs 11000Euro...well I got a used one for 2000
a good alternative is Capristo or Akrapovic
rest of world a straight out titan one will be less then 10kg...
you are welcome to post specific ones.
use the GT exhaust heat shield, saves another -2kg
the weight for value ones are the following:
- delete the gearbox oil cooler, you need the gearbox oil shortcut pipe from the GT. dismantle the rest, in total approx -5kg for 170Euro
- GT floor carpet costs around 800Euro and -7kg saving
- GT engine lid with makrolon window: used ones are around 3000Euro and -14kg weight savings high up
- GT aluminum tunnel cover: -1kg for 80Euro
I have not installed it yet, but bought few lithium lightweight batteries for my cars
- Antigravity AG-H7-40RS new model with token emergency start - 6.65kg (40 Ah Pb equivalent )
- Lite Blox LB28XX - 3.2 kg with mounting plate ( 54 Ah Pb equivalent )
Just for reference, the smallest equivalent lead battery I could find 56Ah - 13.8kg, and stock R8 should be around 20kg
Just for kicks I weighted Weathertec rubber floor mats - it is actually lighter than carpeted OEM, by 10 grams total (hello Tom..))
Ceramic brakes: the brake calipers are 1 kg heavier then steal 8 pot ones, the saving comes only from the discs. use OEM ceramics, savings -16,5kg to OEM steal.
as mine is a daily and mountain pass hunter ceramics are a noGo. 2nd replacement is a fortune.
steal brakes: for the stealies there are some options avaliable too. key to save weight is to go with real 2 piece brake discs. 2nd adavantage for replacement you only need the brake rings which are cheap...
These 2piece discs have better heat capabilities so together with lightening your car you don't have to go bigger=more weight.
alternative are giro disc, they also have an upgrade size 380mm but that is only needed for the "heavy" V10 spyders. https://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_939.html
A lightened V8 the stock size 365 is more then enough with the right brake pads.
other alternatives, please post if you know.
Okay got a working battery now, changed to ATX-30 which is only 2.86kg. I've also deleted factory spoiler and changed to a carbon one, changed exhaust to Top Gear F1, changed seats to Recaro Sportster CS and converted to 2WD. With some minor things not included i think i'm close to -100kg and also have and ecu tune on it. I think you can really feel the difference. I'm still about to tackle the insulation and cd changer behind the seats.
ECS Tuning has front discs, full floating, which are lighter than OEM but not by much.
In addition to what others have mentioned...
-Titanium lug nuts-1.5 pounds savings
-Most coil-overs, if aluminum bodied, probably save you a good chunk of weight.
-Hollow roll bars. Anyone make them? GMG? 2020 carbon bar retrofit?
-Tires! Not all weigh the same. Pick your size and brand carefully. Go too big on the wheels and you could end up putting all the weight back on with the proper tire size for the rim's width.
Audi uses stretch bolts everywhere. They're f*cking heavy and one time use. You could go aluminum on non-stressed parts, lighter high tensile carbon steel on the others.
After that, things get really unreasonable. Might as well look at a McLaren.
Do you know a company that does bolt kits in aluminium or titanium? someone like ProBolt that does great kits for motorcycles which I've used a lot on my motorbike.
Pro-Bolt probably has a number of items that would work for the R8, just not as a kit. You'd have to figure out the size of each one you plan on swapping out. Should keep you busy for a few hours
yes a very good weight saving option. Just have a look on the 100+ screws on the plastic bottom floor covers when you do an oil change. They can all be exchange to alu, same the wheelhousing screws etc......
the majority of the metal screws can be replaced with 4 different alu screw sizes, in total around 1000 screws thats all you need. Thats the big weight saving game, yes there are some more special ones as Toms Pics shows.
Confirm Tom sold me 350 alu screws (only 2 sizes needed, see his first two pics) for the exterior parts and engine bay. When I unscrew a part or can access a part with steel screws I replaced it with the alu one...All used already, may need another 50 to complete the mission
2nd I already used around 250 alu screws for the interior too simple Alu M5x16 or 20 and M6x20 screws. These 2 will fit 90% of the screws used in the interior. Some original screws are a bit shorter like M5x12 or 16 but you can use the 20 length too.
you can buy them on ebay in 20 and 100 piece packs from motorbike stores...used to mount the front body, wind deflector or window of the bike. Still have 200 alu screws lying around...when GT floor carpet will go in they will be used.
regarding Titanium screws: in my opinion they only make sense "weight for buck wise" were you can replace them for unsprung or rotational masses...
- Titanium wheel screws or studs+nuts is clearly No1 here
- at the wheel bearing housing/joints you have some standard screws/nuts to replace in Titanium too
- screws holding the dampers => DON'T REPLACE THESE SCREWS WITH TITAN!!! Only use OEM ones here! Contact corrosion between Alu and Titan, NO GO here!
- screws holding the wheel bearing
- screw holding drive shaft to wheel beering = >only the outer one on the wheel side! The Inner ones to the gear box is a NO GO, ATTENTION Contact corrosion here too on the inner ones to gear box!
but you can go mad here too
the bigger the metal screw the more weight saving in Titanium
regarding Titanium screws: in my opinion they only make sense "weight for buck wise" were you can replace them for unsprung or rotational masses...
- Titanium wheel screws or studs+nuts is clearly No1 here
- at the wheel bearing housing/joints you have some standard screws/nuts to replace in Titanium too
- screws holding the dampers
- screws holding the wheel bearing
- screw holding drive shaft to wheel beering
but you can go mad here too
the bigger the metal screw the more weight saving in Titanium
On my motorbike I used the principal of non-stressed or load bearing in aluminium and stressed or load bearing in titanium, also if you buy from Pro-bolt you can get them anodised in a colour of choice to fit in with your build.
Anybody run their R8 without the front tub in the trunk? Is it necessary for anything? I rarely have anything in there except for extra quarts of engine oil.
you can safe another kg per wheel in getting Conti 6 instead PSS, they perform on same level dry but Conti is way better in wet plus lighter 1 kg front and 1.5 rear.
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