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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Presently installing a left front mag ride rebuilt by Nagengast. Problem: When shock was removed I noticed it expanded in length by approx 30mm. Now, when the new mag ride is installed it needs to be shortened or compressed in length so the bottom bolt holes line up with the A arm holes. The A arms will not go downward far enough to make up the difference even with the anti sway bar disconnected. Tried to use spring compressors but the large rubber bushing at the bottom of the spring is in the way and only one side of the spring will accept the spring compressor. Both old and new shocks are same in length. Has anybody installed their own mag ride shocks and experienced this? Rob
 

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Bolt in the top and use a jack to compress it enough to line everything up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bolt in the top and use a jack to compress it enough to line everything up.
Thanks for the reply Winter. Thought of that but the driveline is centered perfectly in the way. Also, the way the A arm is designed, the shock actually has to be compressed and then moved toward the outside into the correct position. There are so many people that say it is a 15 min job. I don't see it.
 

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I used a shop rag on the strut to protect the paint, then I used a crowbar to lever the strut. There's a bit of a ledge on the strut that you can get the crowbar to grab. Then if I remember correctly there is a place on the upper control arm that you can lever against. I think I used a rubber block on top of that as sort of my fulcrum point. If you use this suggestion as vague guidance, I think it will become apparent how to do it.

The other part that is tricky is driving the bolt through that lower hole. I screwed it in rather than bashing it with a dead blow hammer, which worked for me. I didn't want to wreck the threads.

Also remember that you want to compress the whole assembly before tightening the nuts to spec. To do that is a bit hairy because you are putting a lot of lift on that front end of the car, so make sure you are fastened tight to your lift or you could push the car right off. Hopefully you remembered to measure the position of the wheel before pulling the whole thing apart, because that's where you want to compress to. I did a write up of the whole process and here's a link to the whole story. It should have everything you need and more.

 

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I used a shop rag on the strut to protect the paint, then I used a crowbar to lever the strut. There's a bit of a ledge on the strut that you can get the crowbar to grab. Then if I remember correctly there is a place on the upper control arm that you can lever against. I think I used a rubber block on top of that as sort of my fulcrum point. If you use this suggestion as vague guidance, I think it will become apparent how to do it.

The other part that is tricky is driving the bolt through that lower hole. I screwed it in rather than bashing it with a dead blow hammer, which worked for me. I didn't want to wreck the threads.

Also remember that you want to compress the whole assembly before tightening the nuts to spec. To do that is a bit hairy because you are putting a lot of lift on that front end of the car, so make sure you are fastened tight to your lift or you could push the car right off. Hopefully you remembered to measure the position of the wheel before pulling the whole thing apart, because that's where you want to compress to. I did a write up of the whole process and here's a link to the whole story. It should have everything you need and more.

Thankyou very much Starke. Funny, I did alot of searches on this site and did not see your post. Looks like you did your homework on "the A arms have to be in the correct position" before torqueing. I read on this site that a mechanic replaced all 4 shocks in 3 hours. Must have been a magician.
 

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Thankyou very much Starke. Funny, I did alot of searches on this site and did not see your post. Looks like you did your homework on "the A arms have to be in the correct position" before torqueing. I read on this site that a mechanic replaced all 4 shocks in 3 hours. Must have been a magician.
I read that bit about the mechanic replacing those shocks. I just laughed after knowing my whole saga. It shows you the difference between someone who does this as a profession versus someone who putters around the garage on weekends and evenings. Good luck on your project. Take your time and think about everything you are doing and it will turn out great. And you will learn something in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I read that bit about the mechanic replacing those shocks. I just laughed after knowing my whole saga. It shows you the difference between someone who does this as a profession versus someone who putters around the garage on weekends and evenings. Good luck on your project. Take your time and think about everything you are doing and it will turn out great. And you will learn something in the process.
Starke, The first thing I did was to remove the height sensor arm on the lower A arm. Also remove the anti sway bar link to the A arm. I did what you said about levering the spring base and could not do it that way. The A arms kept going downward and noticed the shocks are so stiff, they never really compressed. Once I had the A arms in position, there was so much force pushing them down from the lever I could not move the shock into position because the shock was part of the levering system. I used a scissor jack instead. A risky procedure but it worked. I placed it on the disc top and the other end on the curved frame portion. I was aware that the frame portion might bend and used one of those level lasers as a reference to the curved frame portion. In my case I was able to slowly jack the A arms downward, carefully, until they were at the proper height to line the bolt holes in the A arm and the bottom of the shock always watching the arc in the frame. Then the bolt slid right in with just a few taps. What an ordeal. Thanks for your interest and ideas. Am wondering, did you ever find out how the mechanic was able to do it so quickly?
 

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Starke, The first thing I did was to remove the height sensor arm on the lower A arm. Also remove the anti sway bar link to the A arm. I did what you said about levering the spring base and could not do it that way. The A arms kept going downward and noticed the shocks are so stiff, they never really compressed. Once I had the A arms in position, there was so much force pushing them down from the lever I could not move the shock into position because the shock was part of the levering system. I used a scissor jack instead. A risky procedure but it worked. I placed it on the disc top and the other end on the curved frame portion. I was aware that the frame portion might bend and used one of those level lasers as a reference to the curved frame portion. In my case I was able to slowly jack the A arms downward, carefully, until they were at the proper height to line the bolt holes in the A arm and the bottom of the shock always watching the arc in the frame. Then the bolt slid right in with just a few taps. What an ordeal. Thanks for your interest and ideas. Am wondering, did you ever find out how the mechanic was able to do it so quickly?
I'm glad you figured out a process to do it. I'm sure there must be a pro trick on how they do it because I can't imagine that either your or my method is the way the pros do it. I was hoping on my thread to get some pro advice but instead it turned out to be just me fumbling through the whole process. My guess is that the mechanic who did it so quickly actually knew what he was doing from the get go. I'm sure it's one of those things when you see how it's actually done, you smack your head and go, "Why didn't I think of that?!"
 

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Presently installing a left front mag ride rebuilt by Nagengast. Problem: When shock was removed I noticed it expanded in length by approx 30mm. Now, when the new mag ride is installed it needs to be shortened or compressed in length so the bottom bolt holes line up with the A arm holes. The A arms will not go downward far enough to make up the difference even with the anti sway bar disconnected. Tried to use spring compressors but the large rubber bushing at the bottom of the spring is in the way and only one side of the spring will accept the spring compressor. Both old and new shocks are same in length. Has anybody installed their own mag ride shocks and experienced this? Rob
The 30 mm longer is what made a fairly straight forward project much more difficult. Have you asked Nagengast about this length increase? If you are correct your car should sit a bit high then as well. Does it sit high afterward?

You were correct in undoing the anti-rollbar links to move the arms. Shouldn't be a bunch of drama after that

BTW- It takes more than 10-15 minutes a side just to take out each inner fender liner out and back in with care to avoid cross threading). And then above fender plastic removal. So anyone saying the front coilover replacements are a 15 minute job is skipping a bunch of steps.
 

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The 30 mm longer is what made a fairly straight forward project much more difficult. Have you asked Nagengast about this length increase? If you are correct your car should sit a bit high then as well. Does it sit high afterward?

You were correct in undoing the anti-rollbar links to move the arms. Shouldn't be a bunch of drama after that

BTW- It takes more than 10-15 minutes a side just to take out each inner fender liner out and back in with care to avoid cross threading). And then above fender plastic removal. So anyone saying the front coilover replacements are a 15 minute job is skipping a bunch of steps.
Scott, I'm not the OP, but I'm certainly interested in this conversation. When I removed the old mag shocks from my car, two were leaking and two were not. When I removed the bolts, the shocks definitely expanded a bit. I don't know if it was 30mm. I kind of figured that this would be a pain when I reinstalled and I was right. In my mind, the shocks would behave like that normally. Maybe this is not the case.

When the car puts its full weight on the shocks and springs, I'm sure it squishes things a bit. I'm curious if I kept the measurements of ride height before removal. If I can dig them up I'll have to go out and take another measurement and see if it rides higher. It doesn't seem higher by eyeball or feel, so it's hard to say.

I'm really glad to hear that this is not a quick couple hour job. For me it was half a lifetime... Really appreciate your knowledgable comments on this site.
 

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Scott, I'm not the OP, but I'm certainly interested in this conversation. When I removed the old mag shocks from my car, two were leaking and two were not. When I removed the bolts, the shocks definitely expanded a bit. I don't know if it was 30mm. I kind of figured that this would be a pain when I reinstalled and I was right. In my mind, the shocks would behave like that normally. Maybe this is not the case.

When the car puts its full weight on the shocks and springs, I'm sure it squishes things a bit. I'm curious if I kept the measurements of ride height before removal. If I can dig them up I'll have to go out and take another measurement and see if it rides higher. It doesn't seem higher by eyeball or feel, so it's hard to say.

I'm really glad to hear that this is not a quick couple hour job. For me it was half a lifetime... Really appreciate your knowledgable comments on this site.
Starke, sorry I misunderstood OP's comments on the length...I thought he meant the uninstalled length had changed by 30 mm. Now after your comment I see you guys both mean just expanded length after mount removal.

I have taken the stock magrides in and out a handful of times and not had a noticeable issue with this install once the anti-rollbar links are removed. The stock front magride shocks can drop down into the big control arm slot toward the inboard side of the lower mount so you can get the top fully in the upper mount first and then the lower mount. Did you try to install them in this way?

Yes, I have done the Gen 1 R8 coilover replacement a lot and doing it all well takes about 4 hours start to finish for all four. This is time consuming to do right.

Ride heights - I measured the fender heights at the wheel center to ground on a flat and level ground with the magrides and measured the following in mm:

261657



Glad to contribute here and help. Great community and cars.
 

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...I have taken the stock magrides in and out a handful of times and not had a noticeable issue with this install once the anti-rollbar links are removed. The stock front magride shocks can drop down into the big control arm slot toward the inboard side of the lower mount so you can get the top fully in the upper mount first and then the lower mount. Did you try to install them in this way?...
I did the install as you described, top in first, lower end in the big slot. I did not remove the anti-rollbar links. Actually, I didn't even know that this would be an advised step. Probably could have saved a great deal of sweat and swearing had I done that. Live and learn. Overall, I'm glad I took on the project. I learned a lot as I did it, so it was worth the effort. But I know I'd never be able to do the job in 4 hours!
 

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I did the install as you described, top in first, lower end in the big slot. I did not remove the anti-rollbar links. Actually, I didn't even know that this would be an advised step. Probably could have saved a great deal of sweat and swearing had I done that. Live and learn. Overall, I'm glad I took on the project. I learned a lot as I did it, so it was worth the effort. But I know I'd never be able to do the job in 4 hours!
I understand on the anti-rollbar. I have seen others on youtube do the R8 front coilover install with a pry bar on the upper arm due to leaving the anti-rollbar hooked up. That R8 front anti-rollbar is huge an does not want to let the left and right suspensions move independently. (The rear anti-rollbar is automatically disconnected with the lower coilover bolt removal.)

One thing to keep in mind on any of these cars is that there should not typically be major drama in removal or install of most items with the right technique and/or tools. That is not always the case, but a good assumption especially on rust free cars.

I need to get after doing some videos including highlights on this suspension removal and install.

I understand. 4 hours is hustling, but not rushing for me with a lot of experience, but not what I do on a regular basis. It is all safety critical stuff so not worth rushing and like you note worth doing to gain more knowledge on your car.
 

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I understand on the anti-rollbar. I have seen others on youtube do the R8 front coilover install with a pry bar on the upper arm due to leaving the anti-rollbar hooked up. That R8 front anti-rollbar is huge an does not want to let the left and right suspensions move independently. (The rear anti-rollbar is automatically disconnected with the lower coilover bolt removal.)

One thing to keep in mind on any of these cars is that there should not typically be major drama in removal or install of most items with the right technique and/or tools. That is not always the case, but a good assumption especially on rust free cars.

I need to get after doing some videos including highlights on this suspension removal and install.

I understand. 4 hours is hustling, but not rushing for me with a lot of experience, but not what I do on a regular basis. It is all safety critical stuff so not worth rushing and like you note worth doing to gain more knowledge on your car.
Look forward to seeing suspension mounting done the right way video Scott.
 
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