Instructions on how to disable Gen 2 Base Wing

25121 Views 104 Replies 26 Participants Last post by yagelbulk71, 3 mo ago

APOLLOSKI

Discussion Starter · Dec 18, 2019 (Edited)

This is for Disabling a Gen 2 Baseplate with everything still plugged in.

There have been many threads asking how to disable the wing on a Base Gen 2 (even one created by me). So far there has been little to no help on the subject so I am creating this thread for everyone still trying to figure it out.

A few methods that have been suggested to me:
Unplug the stock wing motor and disable in the comfort module with VCDS (similar to a gen 1)
Unhook the driveshaft and install v10+ brackets. No VCDS required since the motor is still plugged in and functioning, but no actual wing movement.

I am sure there are other ways I didn't mention, but none are as clean as this one as far as I know.
Disclaimer, I am not a certified audi tech or anything of the sort, so work on your car at your own risk.
Here it is...

First,
Pull the passenger seat forward, pull the carpet behind the seat and uncover a fuse box.
Remove fuse 7 (yellow). This fuse only controls the power to the wing motor.

Second,
Disable the wing in the comfort module with VCDS like you would on a Gen 1.

Third,
Go into Instrument cluster (17) and uncheck the box that has wing installed.
This will remove the warning light off your dash.

It's as simple as that!
Easily reversible and only takes less than 30 minutes to complete. I would recommend extra brackets to hold the stock baseplate if you're reusing that.

Thanks for reading and a special thanks to Kormodiv for supplying the wiring diagram and murph145 for the Gen 2 car to work on.
Hopefully this brings the great mystery to an end.

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Elberoth

· #17 · May 19, 2021

I'm about to install the OEM Audi Performance rear wing. Does the rear bumper has to come off ?

2021 Gen 2 RWD with no wing. I have bought all OEM Audi mounting hardware necessary + OEM wing.

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Elberoth

· #19 · May 19, 2021

No prob - I will try to document as much as I can.

Elberoth

· #22 · May 21, 2021

R8RWSNut said:
Where did you guys get the "kit" for all the mounting hardware? How much is it?

I got it from my Audi dealer. All the mounting hardware is about $1600 (may be a bit less in the US).

Here is the part's list:

4S0827567A - 1
N91042302 - 16
4S8813451 - 1
4S8813452 - 1
N02300213 - 4
N91173301 - 2
N10009506 - 12
4S8827699A -1
4S88279373FZ -1
N90737803 -1
420807739 - 4
N0386015 - 7
N91174301 - 2
4S0813657B -1
4S0813658B - 1
4S0813383B -1
4S0813384B - 1
N90496901 - 7
N90944604 - 1

The # in back are the # of pieces you need to order. Some are as high as 12 - those are screws, washers etc.

You can google each part # to see what it is.

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Elberoth

· #25 · May 24, 2021

Garac said:
I worked with LDC_OEM on instagram, he sells all OEM and Audi Performance parts. (his email is [email protected]).
Quick shipping and received everything in 2 days to the states. (Paid 1,898 EUR for all hardware except the OEM Plus spoiler which I sourced locally). My local Audi dealer quoted me $3,500 -$4,000 if I remember correctly.

View attachment 262474

What you see on this pic is $1600 from the Audi dealer. I'm sure you can source those parts online even cheaper. The most expensive part is the carbon wing itself - I have bought one used (for another $1600) from a person upgrading to the bigger Vorschteiner spoiler. So $3200 total in parts.

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Elberoth

· #27 · May 25, 2021

Paint whole rear end ? That would be absurd. You only need to paint part # 7

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Elberoth

· #29 · May 25, 2021

I can only advice you to change the paintshop you are using. Painting a panel on a brand new car with factory paint color to get perfect color match is not a problem for an expert shop. Likewise, they do not paint the whole rear end of the car to get a color match when you scratch the rear bumper ...

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Elberoth

· #32 · May 27, 2021

Got the rear spoiler installed yesterday.

Unfortunately, since I got my second Moderna jab 2 days ago, I was totally wiped out yesterday and wasn't able to go to the shop to take pics during install.

Now need to code out the active spoiler as I'm getting an error on the dash (as expected).

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Elberoth

· #36 · Jun 6, 2021

Does one need to remove the spoiler fuse after disabling the spoiler with the VCDS ?

Elberoth

· #39 · Jun 9, 2021 (Edited)

APOLLOSKI said:
You have to follow the steps in the exact order as I wrote them out. If you don't remove the fuse before disabling with VCDS, the spoiler pops up because it thinks it needs to be serviced. With the fuse already out, it can't make that connection and you're on your way to having the spoiler disabled without any warning lights.

That is when you keep the OE retractable spoiler. But I have removed the spoiler completely with all assosiated hardware and put the fixed wing (with all corresponding OE Audi fixed wing mounting hardware) in place, so there is nothing to pop out. There is no electric motor left. Everything is fixed. There is only an open cable left (which I have taped out and secured).

Elberoth

· #48 · Jun 9, 2021

SoCalAD said:
How much will the entire OEM setup cost? Will dealer be able to do the installation and honor the warranty?

$1600-2000 for the OEM fixed wing mounting hardware (depending where you shop) + the wing.

The CF wing is super expensive @ $7k or thereabouts, but you can easily buy one used from someone switching from OEM to Vorsteiner wing. I have paid $1600 for mine in as new condition.

I have also paid $1600 for the mounting hardware, so for me it was $1600 + $1600 + $500 labor (paint job and installing all bits) = $3700.

I would rather do it outside the Audi dealership unless you have a good relation with them. Once you put it in, I'm pretty sure they will not notice, as every 2nd R8 is a Performance model with a wing, so it is next to impossible to tell (unless you check the car's papers).

Elberoth

· #52 · Jun 22, 2021

For those that like me are upgrading from the retractable spoiler to the CF wing using all original Audi hardware (i.e NOT installing your new spoiler on top of the old retractable one, but rather going full OEM route).

There is no need to remove the fuse as the motor is removed with the old mounting plate when installing new plate for the CF wing. So you can skip step # 1 and go straight to step # 2/3 (coding).

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Elberoth

· #55 · Jul 7, 2021

Garac said:
Curious, when you remove the motor how do you gain access to say underneath the spoiler if needed?

Via the grill. You have to remove the little grill which sits in the OEM Audi mounting plate. The show was able to install the spoiler without removing the rear bumper AFAIK.

You have to use all OEM Audi parts for the Performance wing though. The motorised wing has no grill in it.

Elberoth

· #57 · Jul 23, 2021

NYCR8 said:
Where did you buy the full kit??

I bought the wing itself here on R8talk and all the mounting hardware from my Audi dealer.

You can get it here from the member R8stuff as well.

Elberoth

· #59 · Jul 24, 2021

Base plate comes primmed from Audi. It needs to be painted.

Elberoth

· #64 · Aug 7, 2021

Lucretia said:
Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse and directly mount the wing. Then why go through the hassle and cost of buying the full replacement kit?

1. To make it OEM not some ghetto style.
2. The retractable spoiler is not as solid as fixed mount and after you load it with a spoiler on top, you can see it rattles a bit at speed.

Elberoth

· #80 · Oct 16, 2021

bigmowley said:
Hi Apolloski. I have run it for 2 years with the motor connected and the spoiler enabled. However I did keep getting the random messages that the spoiler was faulty, these were steadily becoming more and more frequent. They could usually be cleared and it was all good again for a while. As it is getting more frequent I was hoping for a method of coding it out which did not cause the traction control to re-enable above 100mph? I am not sure that leaving the spoiler enabled but disconnecting the drive in the motor will work? I guess that it looks for some limit position in the motor to determine if the spoiler is at the end of its travel up or down? I would assume that it will throw a fault code all the time? Happy to give anything a try, its ruining a great car.

Pull out the fuse and recode.

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