Instructions on how to disable Gen 2 Base Wing

25121 Views 104 Replies 26 Participants Last post by yagelbulk71, 3 mo ago

APOLLOSKI

Discussion Starter · Dec 18, 2019 (Edited)

This is for Disabling a Gen 2 Baseplate with everything still plugged in.

There have been many threads asking how to disable the wing on a Base Gen 2 (even one created by me). So far there has been little to no help on the subject so I am creating this thread for everyone still trying to figure it out.

A few methods that have been suggested to me:
Unplug the stock wing motor and disable in the comfort module with VCDS (similar to a gen 1)
Unhook the driveshaft and install v10+ brackets. No VCDS required since the motor is still plugged in and functioning, but no actual wing movement.

I am sure there are other ways I didn't mention, but none are as clean as this one as far as I know.
Disclaimer, I am not a certified audi tech or anything of the sort, so work on your car at your own risk.
Here it is...

First,
Pull the passenger seat forward, pull the carpet behind the seat and uncover a fuse box.
Remove fuse 7 (yellow). This fuse only controls the power to the wing motor.

Second,
Disable the wing in the comfort module with VCDS like you would on a Gen 1.

Third,
Go into Instrument cluster (17) and uncheck the box that has wing installed.
This will remove the warning light off your dash.

It's as simple as that!
Easily reversible and only takes less than 30 minutes to complete. I would recommend extra brackets to hold the stock baseplate if you're reusing that.

Thanks for reading and a special thanks to Kormodiv for supplying the wiring diagram and murph145 for the Gen 2 car to work on.
Hopefully this brings the great mystery to an end.

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41 - 60 of 105 Posts

APOLLOSKI

Discussion Starter · #41 · Jun 9, 2021

Elberoth said:
That is when you keep the OE retractable spoiler. But I have removed the spoiler completely with all assosiated hardware and put the fixed wing (with all corresponding OE Audi fixed wing mounting hardware) in place, so there is nothing to pop out. There is no electric motor left. Everything is fixed. There is only an open cable left (which I have taped out and secured).

If you go the OEM route, you can skip the fuse step. The other steps are still relevant.

Reactions: 1

APOLLOSKI

Discussion Starter · #42 · Jun 9, 2021

skilly said:
This thread is helpful - thanks. A question that I dont think is covered:

The instructions to disable are helpful, but somewhat of a hack (elegant of course, and no disrespect meant!). Wondering if you have a gen 2 and opt for the fixed wing, can you also go to the expense of having the dealer disable the automatic function? Just curious if there is an OEM way to do this too?

If you use a mac and dont have VCDS, then its 600 bucks just to complete the instructions here (computer and dongle from Ross-tech).

You can do it with OBDEleven on your Iphone/android ($100). I'm sure the dealer would charge more than $100 to do these steps for you. I only mentioned Rosstech since it is more widely known, but I did it with OBD11 and it worked the same.
As per my post before this, if you swap to all OEM components (remove spoiler mechanism), you don't need to do the fuse step.

Reactions: 1

Garac

· #43 · Jun 9, 2021

APOLLOSKI said:
If you go the OEM route, you can skip the fuse step. The other steps are still relevant.

Sorry just to be clear, if you are installing the OEM Plus Spoiler with the OEM Kit you do not need to remove the fuse? Just turn off the active spoiler with VCDS?

APOLLOSKI

Discussion Starter · #44 · Jun 9, 2021

Garac said:
Sorry just to be clear, if you are installing the OEM Plus Spoiler with the OEM Kit you do not need to remove the fuse? Just turn off the active spoiler with VCDS?

Yup, turn off spoiler in both control units.

SoCalAD

· #45 · Jun 9, 2021

How much will the entire OEM setup cost? Will dealer be able to do the installation and honor the warranty?

skilly

· #46 · Jun 9, 2021

APOLLOSKI said:
If you go the OEM route, you can skip the fuse step. The other steps are still relevant.

OK, so what I am learning from that is "OEM" means removing the motor etc that enables the articulation of the active spoiler. Then you would still need to turn off the instructions that call it to activate, or it will throw out an error. Makes sense...

So, the simple fix, is the earlier instructions - a fuse being MUCH easier than taking out the other.

I have an exhaust going on this week and everything is coming apart. As a result of that, would the most simple fix be to mechanically disable the articulation? Anybody have any instructions about keeping the motor 'thinking' its still doing its thing but dislocating the mechanics that actually make it happen?

murph145

· #47 · Jun 9, 2021

skilly said:
OK, so what I am learning from that is "OEM" means removing the motor etc that enables the articulation of the active spoiler. Then you would still need to turn off the instructions that call it to activate, or it will throw out an error. Makes sense...

So, the simple fix, is the earlier instructions - a fuse being MUCH easier than taking out the other.

I have an exhaust going on this week and everything is coming apart. As a result of that, would the most simple fix be to mechanically disable the articulation? Anybody have any instructions about keeping the motor 'thinking' its still doing its thing but dislocating the mechanics that actually make it happen?

Why would you want to do that? Just pull the fuse and code it out, it is simple. Good thing about pulling the fuse is that if you ever need to access under the wing plate just put the fuse back in and it will pop up.

Disabling the motor somehow will make it impossible for you to ever access under the wing plate unless you remove the rear end for access.

Reactions: 1

Elberoth

· #48 · Jun 9, 2021

SoCalAD said:
How much will the entire OEM setup cost? Will dealer be able to do the installation and honor the warranty?

$1600-2000 for the OEM fixed wing mounting hardware (depending where you shop) + the wing.

The CF wing is super expensive @ $7k or thereabouts, but you can easily buy one used from someone switching from OEM to Vorsteiner wing. I have paid $1600 for mine in as new condition.

I have also paid $1600 for the mounting hardware, so for me it was $1600 + $1600 + $500 labor (paint job and installing all bits) = $3700.

I would rather do it outside the Audi dealership unless you have a good relation with them. Once you put it in, I'm pretty sure they will not notice, as every 2nd R8 is a Performance model with a wing, so it is next to impossible to tell (unless you check the car's papers).

Garac

· #49 · Jun 17, 2021

Found this pdf...This is for installing the Audi Sport Wing, however looks like this would be the same process for installing the v10+ spoiler as well.

Reactions: 1

Garac

· #50 · Jun 17, 2021

Garac said:
Found this pdf...This is for installing the Audi Sport Wing, however looks like this would be the same process for installing the v10+ spoiler as well.

For me I would rather not disconnect the electric motors and instead just pull the fuse. I think this route would be easier to reverse if needed or incase you have to access behind the bumper again...

Reactions: 2

skilly

· #51 · Jun 19, 2021

and, so I'm not missing something obvious, there is no active aero on the Gen 2 Spyder, correct?

Elberoth

· #52 · Jun 22, 2021

For those that like me are upgrading from the retractable spoiler to the CF wing using all original Audi hardware (i.e NOT installing your new spoiler on top of the old retractable one, but rather going full OEM route).

There is no need to remove the fuse as the motor is removed with the old mounting plate when installing new plate for the CF wing. So you can skip step # 1 and go straight to step # 2/3 (coding).

Reactions: 1

Garac

· #53 · Jul 7, 2021

Elberoth said:
For those that like me are upgrading from the retractable spoiler to the CF wing using all original Audi hardware (i.e NOT installing your new spoiler on top of the old retractable one, but rather going full OEM route).

There is no need to remove the fuse as the motor is removed with the old mounting plate when installing new plate for the CF wing. So you can skip step # 1 and go straight to step # 2/3 (coding).

Curious, when you remove the motor how do you gain access to say underneath the spoiler if needed?

murph145

· #54 · Jul 7, 2021

Garac said:
Curious, when you remove the motor how do you gain access to say underneath the spoiler if needed?

Probably have to remove the bumper

Elberoth

· #55 · Jul 7, 2021

Garac said:
Curious, when you remove the motor how do you gain access to say underneath the spoiler if needed?

Via the grill. You have to remove the little grill which sits in the OEM Audi mounting plate. The show was able to install the spoiler without removing the rear bumper AFAIK.

You have to use all OEM Audi parts for the Performance wing though. The motorised wing has no grill in it.

NYCR8

· #56 · Jul 23, 2021

Elberoth said:
Paint whole rear end ? That would be absurd. You only need to paint part # 7

View attachment 262518

Where did you buy the full kit??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Elberoth

· #57 · Jul 23, 2021

NYCR8 said:
Where did you buy the full kit??

I bought the wing itself here on R8talk and all the mounting hardware from my Audi dealer.

You can get it here from the member R8stuff as well.

Lucretia

· #58 · Jul 24, 2021 (Edited)

2 questions -

1. When you guys bought the kit, what color does the new base plate come in? My car is Mythos, do I still need to have the base plate re-sprayed?
2. Is the 17 Plus wing the same as the 20 Performance?

I'm looking to add to my 22 RWD. I plan to buy the wing used, came across a 17 Plus wing, but wanted to make sure its the same as the 20.

Elberoth

· #59 · Jul 24, 2021

Base plate comes primmed from Audi. It needs to be painted.

Lucretia

· #60 · Jul 25, 2021

How about the wing. Are all the gen 2 wings identical - plus vs. performance?

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