[Lucretia]

Base plate comes primmed from Audi. It needs to be painted.

thanks

 

[Lucretia]

Finally, thank you for the post/write-up!

Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse

What you see on this pic is $1600 from the Audi dealer. I'm sure you can source those parts online even cheaper. The most expensive part is the carbon wing itself - I have bought one used (for another $1600) from a person upgrading to the bigger Vorschteiner spoiler. So $3200 total in parts.

Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse and directly mount the wing. Then why go through the hassle and cost of buying the full replacement kit?

 

[murph145]

Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse


Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse and directly mount the wing. Then why go through the hassle and cost of buying the full replacement kit?

Because some people want it to be OEM like I suppose.

If you use the non plus base plate and even pull the fuse the plate has some slight movement in it. I did this with my 2017 and with the OEM + wing it is fine. I would not mount a larger Vorsteiner wing to the non + plate.

The + base plate and mounting hardware make it solid and fixed more securely.

Just depends on how much you want to spend and what kind of wing you intend to use.

 

[Elberoth]

Dumb question. If you can simply pull a fuse and directly mount the wing. Then why go through the hassle and cost of buying the full replacement kit?

1. To make it OEM not some ghetto style.
2. The retractable spoiler is not as solid as fixed mount and after you load it with a spoiler on top, you can see it rattles a bit at speed.

 

[Lucretia]

1. To make it OEM not some ghetto style.
2. The retractable spoiler is not as solid as fixed mount and after you load it with a spoiler on top, you can see it rattles a bit at speed.

Agreed if you are mounting the OEM wing. And I may end up buying a used one.

However the wing I'm considering is non OEM, and made to fit on the non plus base plate.

 

[murph145]

Agreed if you are mounting the OEM wing. And I may end up buying a used one.

However the wing I'm considering is non OEM, and made to fit on the non plus base plate.

What wing are you considering?

 

[Lucretia]

What wing are you considering?

I bought a used 2017 plus OEM wing. So I will do the full conversion.

One of the vendors sells an aftermarket OEM replica that is mounted directly to the non plus base plate. Only $900 plus install. However I decided to go the long, harder, and more expensive route with the full swap.

 

[murph145]

I bought a used 2017 plus OEM wing. So I will do the full conversion.

One of the vendors sells an aftermarket OEM replica that is mounted directly to the non plus base plate. Only $900 plus install. However I decided to go the long, harder, and more expensive route with the full swap.

Sounds good. I did the same for my 17 base but did not do the full conversion. We did the fuse and coding and works just fine. I understand wanting to do the full conversion I was thinking about doing it that way too but did not want to spend the outrageous amount for all the parts

 

[hyperspeedy]

I just did the NON-PLUS (RWS) to PLUS spoiler conversion so I did not need to pull the fuse. I went with a Vorsteiner style spoiler. For those of you that want to code the spoiler error out yourself, it's very easy with OBDeleven tool. Here are step by step instructions

1. Purchase OBDeleven Starter Tool from Amazon

2. download OBDeleven app on iOS

3. log in, create account, upgrade to PRO account (need this to long code)

4. connect to vehicle per instructions provided
- plug in reader, start car (not engine), connect via bluetooth on App

5. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Comfort System (Control Unit 46)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NOT INSTALLED" -> Slide to Write

6. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Dashboard (Control Unit 17)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NO" -> Slide to Write

when you want to go back to stock NON-PLUS from PLUS conversion, just do it backwards

photos included as well for those that may need it.

 

[Lucretia]

I just did the NON-PLUS (RWS) to PLUS spoiler conversion so I did not need to pull the fuse. I went with a Vorsteiner style spoiler. For those of you that want to code the spoiler error out yourself, it's very easy with OBDeleven tool. Here are step by step instructions

1. Purchase OBDeleven Starter Tool from Amazon

2. download OBDeleven app on iOS

3. log in, create account, upgrade to PRO account (need this to long code)

4. connect to vehicle per instructions provided
- plug in reader, start car (not engine), connect via bluetooth on App

5. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Comfort System (Control Unit 46)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NOT INSTALLED" -> Slide to Write

6. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Dashboard (Control Unit 17)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NO" -> Slide to Write

when you want to go back to stock NON-PLUS from PLUS conversion, just do it backwards

photos included as well for those that may need it.

this is awesome. I just bought a plus wing, and will need to replicate this. thank you for posting these steps!

 

[hyperspeedy]

this is awesome. I just bought a plus wing, and will need to replicate this. thank you for posting these steps!

best of luck, it's one of my favorite mods thus far! totally changes the way the car looks

 

[Lucretia]

$1600-2000 for the OEM fixed wing mounting hardware (depending where you shop) + the wing.

The CF wing is super expensive @ $7k or thereabouts, but you can easily buy one used from someone switching from OEM to Vorsteiner wing. I have paid $1600 for mine in as new condition.

I have also paid $1600 for the mounting hardware, so for me it was $1600 + $1600 + $500 labor (paint job and installing all bits) = $3700.

I would rather do it outside the Audi dealership unless you have a good relation with them. Once you put it in, I'm pretty sure they will not notice, as every 2nd R8 is a Performance model with a wing, so it is next to impossible to tell (unless you check the car's papers).

Is that USD?

 

[MorganJR]

For those that like me are upgrading from the retractable spoiler to the CF wing using all original Audi hardware (i.e NOT installing your new spoiler on top of the old retractable one, but rather going full OEM route).

There is no need to remove the fuse as the motor is removed with the old mounting plate when installing new plate for the CF wing. So you can skip step # 1 and go straight to step # 2/3 (coding).

Were you able to code on your 2021? My OBDeleven doesn't show an option for any coding. Something about how they are still negotiating with Audi to be able to access the coding for 2020 and newer.

 

[APOLLOSKI]

Were you able to code on your 2021? My OBDeleven doesn't show an option for any coding. Something about how they are still negotiating with Audi to be able to access the coding for 2020 and newer.

You will have to wait unfortunately. Otherwise, you can find someone with Vagcom willing to help or disconnect the wing shaft mechanism.

 

[MorganJR]

You will have to wait unfortunately. Otherwise, you can find someone with Vagcom willing to help or disconnect the wing shaft mechanism.

Got it. Thanks!

 

[bigmowley]

I just did the NON-PLUS (RWS) to PLUS spoiler conversion so I did not need to pull the fuse. I went with a Vorsteiner style spoiler. For those of you that want to code the spoiler error out yourself, it's very easy with OBDeleven tool. Here are step by step instructions

1. Purchase OBDeleven Starter Tool from Amazon

2. download OBDeleven app on iOS

3. log in, create account, upgrade to PRO account (need this to long code)

4. connect to vehicle per instructions provided
- plug in reader, start car (not engine), connect via bluetooth on App

5. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Comfort System (Control Unit 46)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NOT INSTALLED" -> Slide to Write

6. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Dashboard (Control Unit 17)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NO" -> Slide to Write

when you want to go back to stock NON-PLUS from PLUS conversion, just do it backwards

photos included as well for those that may need it.

Hi Guys
I have a 2018RWS which is extensively tracked. It has an LMS Gt4 fixed rear wing fitted. I left the old spoiler motor installed and electrically connected and everything was good for 2 years or so. Recently I started to get the rear spoiler not deployed correctly error message. So I coded out the rear spoiler as per the instructions above. The problem is that now every time I go over 100mph on track the traction control reactivates. Obviously on track the traction control has to be off and stay off otherwise the car is rubbish to drive. I did some research on the R8 Plus with the fixed spoiler and it appears that this may be part of the Audi software and not possible to code out? Any experience out there? I just need to get rid of the spoiler not deployed error message without the car altering the traction control setting.

 

[APOLLOSKI]

Hi Guys
I have a 2018RWS which is extensively tracked. It has an LMS Gt4 fixed rear wing fitted. I left the old spoiler motor installed and electrically connected and everything was good for 2 years or so. Recently I started to get the rear spoiler not deployed correctly error message. So I coded out the rear spoiler as per the instructions above. The problem is that now every time I go over 100mph on track the traction control reactivates. Obviously on track the traction control has to be off and stay off otherwise the car is rubbish to drive. I did some research on the R8 Plus with the fixed spoiler and it appears that this may be part of the Audi software and not possible to code out? Any experience out there? I just need to get rid of the spoiler not deployed error message without the car altering the traction control setting.
View attachment 267191

You can always go the other route of keeping the spoiler enabled, but disconnecting the drive in the motor, so the car still thinks the wing is coming up.

 

[bigmowley]

Hi Apolloski. I have run it for 2 years with the motor connected and the spoiler enabled. However I did keep getting the random messages that the spoiler was faulty, these were steadily becoming more and more frequent. They could usually be cleared and it was all good again for a while. As it is getting more frequent I was hoping for a method of coding it out which did not cause the traction control to re-enable above 100mph? I am not sure that leaving the spoiler enabled but disconnecting the drive in the motor will work? I guess that it looks for some limit position in the motor to determine if the spoiler is at the end of its travel up or down? I would assume that it will throw a fault code all the time? Happy to give anything a try, its ruining a great car.

 

[APOLLOSKI]

Hi Apolloski. I have run it for 2 years with the motor connected and the spoiler enabled. However I did keep getting the random messages that the spoiler was faulty, these were steadily becoming more and more frequent. They could usually be cleared and it was all good again for a while. As it is getting more frequent I was hoping for a method of coding it out which did not cause the traction control to re-enable above 100mph? I am not sure that leaving the spoiler enabled but disconnecting the drive in the motor will work? I guess that it looks for some limit position in the motor to determine if the spoiler is at the end of its travel up or down? I would assume that it will throw a fault code all the time? Happy to give anything a try, its ruining a great car.

That method does work and was the preferred method before I did the fuse/vcds disable method. You just disconnect the drive shaft mechanism so the car will raise and lower as though it thinks the wing is still there. There's no sensor that checks to see if anything actually got raised. You shouldnt be getting any more errors after that.

 

[Elberoth]

Hi Apolloski. I have run it for 2 years with the motor connected and the spoiler enabled. However I did keep getting the random messages that the spoiler was faulty, these were steadily becoming more and more frequent. They could usually be cleared and it was all good again for a while. As it is getting more frequent I was hoping for a method of coding it out which did not cause the traction control to re-enable above 100mph? I am not sure that leaving the spoiler enabled but disconnecting the drive in the motor will work? I guess that it looks for some limit position in the motor to determine if the spoiler is at the end of its travel up or down? I would assume that it will throw a fault code all the time? Happy to give anything a try, its ruining a great car.

Pull out the fuse and recode.