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I have done the recoding with OBDELEVEN as described and have removed the motor but the DSC still reactivates at 100mph. Extremely aggravating on track.
I have to figure out a way to stop doing that. If I have to reinstall the motor without the drive gear attached I will do that but I dont understand why this happens if the car is coded for no rear spoiler.
Do the V10 Plus cars have DSC come back on at 100mph?
 

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I have done the recoding with OBDELEVEN as described and have removed the motor but the DSC still reactivates at 100mph. Extremely aggravating on track.
I have to figure out a way to stop doing that. If I have to reinstall the motor without the drive gear attached I will do that but I dont understand why this happens if the car is coded for no rear spoiler.
Do the V10 Plus cars have DSC come back on at 100mph?
Yes is the simple answer.
We have the same issue. On the RWS if you code out the active spoiler in both the modules; central controller and dash, it reverts to a fixed spoiler as per R8 Plus. In this spec the DSC returns to the active position every time you exceed 160KPH / 100MPH. This is programmed into the software and AFAIK cannot be removed. From what I can ascertain all fixed spoiler cars do this which must be a nightmare on track and severely limit their usability.
I have never driven any 4WD R8 on track but I have extensive experience with my RWS. Without disabling the DSC the car is very poor in slow to medium speed corners as it reverts to terminal understeer. With everything disabled the car is great. Trail brake right up to the apex and rotate the car through the corner using the power. The power curve and the throttle sensitivity are brilliant and allow you to do this with a lot of precision. For a 600HP, mid engine, rear wheel drive car the rear grip is tremendous and it hangs on for dear life even at some extreme angles of slide. In 3 years of track use I have never spun it once even though at first you feel like its going to bite on every corner.
My solution was initially, as described above, to leave the rear motor in place, fully connected electrically but not mechanically. This worked fine for the first two years. However occasionally I did get a warning message on the dash that the rear spoiler was inoperative, these could be cleared in the register and it would go back to normal. I could do several thousand miles of road and track work without the fault showing then just as you forget about it bang it would pop up again.
However my issue is that this fault message became more and more common over the last 12 months. This might be down to a problem with my motor and thus unique to my car, however I am hoping that the wider community out there might have some experience to help me out. Currently the car is only doing a few hundred miles between the fault showing and its driving me nuts.

I am interested to know how the programming works for the fault detection on the spoiler position. Are there any physical stops inside the motor to determine the spoiler end positions, does it measure the torque or resistance of the motor operation, does it just work on time taken? Clearly these is an algorithm in there that decides if the spoiler is up or down (or stuck in the middle?) how does it work???
We could do with something to plug into the rear spoiler drive motor connector that simulates this and allows us to run with all the mechanical parts removed. Any software designers out there???
 

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Thanks for your reply!! I dont have time to reinstall the motor today before another track day tomorrow but I will get into this as soon as I have time to pull everything apart again.
I will try to test the spoiler switch with no drive gear attached by holding the button and see if it just keeps running the motor or if it has a programmed stop point by time or if its a physical forced stop point it senses when spoiler is deployed fully as you mention. I hope we can get this figured out. Its crazy that Audi has this sports car that should be very capable but they hamstring it with nannies....
I have almost given up on this car and just stuck with my GT3 for track use but I hope we can get it to work properly. I can drive the GT3 with the DSC enabled and it lets me do what I want with the car on track without slowing me down. Not the case with the R8 at all. and it also greatly increases brake pad wear and gets them too hot. But after adding the performance parts style wing and splitter the car is vastly improved in the high speed esses and high speed turns overall.
 

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Thanks for your reply!! I dont have time to reinstall the motor today before another track day tomorrow but I will get into this as soon as I have time to pull everything apart again.
I will try to test the spoiler switch with no drive gear attached by holding the button and see if it just keeps running the motor or if it has a programmed stop point by time or if its a physical forced stop point it senses when spoiler is deployed fully as you mention. I hope we can get this figured out. Its crazy that Audi has this sports car that should be very capable but they hamstring it with nannies....
I have almost given up on this car and just stuck with my GT3 for track use but I hope we can get it to work properly. I can drive the GT3 with the DSC enabled and it lets me do what I want with the car on track without slowing me down. Not the case with the R8 at all. and it also greatly increases brake pad wear and gets them too hot. But after adding the performance parts style wing and splitter the car is vastly improved in the high speed esses and high speed turns overall.
Did this work?
 

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Thanks for your post on this. I swapped my rear automated spoiler for an Audi fixed wing. Your instructions for coding out the spoiler was spot on with the OBDeleven tool. Was an easy deactivate. Thanks!!

I just did the NON-PLUS (RWS) to PLUS spoiler conversion so I did not need to pull the fuse. I went with a Vorsteiner style spoiler. For those of you that want to code the spoiler error out yourself, it's very easy with OBDeleven tool. Here are step by step instructions

1. Purchase OBDeleven Starter Tool from Amazon

2. download OBDeleven app on iOS

3. log in, create account, upgrade to PRO account (need this to long code)

4. connect to vehicle per instructions provided
- plug in reader, start car (not engine), connect via bluetooth on App

5. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Comfort System (Control Unit 46)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NOT INSTALLED" -> Slide to Write

6. Vehicle -> Control Units -> Dashboard (Control Unit 17)
- Long Coding -> Search "Spoiler" -> Click radio button "NO" -> Slide to Write

when you want to go back to stock NON-PLUS from PLUS conversion, just do it backwards

photos included as well for those that may need it.
 

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Read the thread but just wanted to quickly clarify. I can put in the oem kit, remove the rear motor/base plate .. drive it home from friends with the error on the dash. And then later code out the above (without removing fuse) since i'm removing the motor. Correct? Thanks in advanced.
 

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Read the thread but just wanted to quickly clarify. I can put in the oem kit, remove the rear motor/base plate .. drive it home from friends with the error on the dash. And then later code out the above (without removing fuse) since i'm removing the motor. Correct? Thanks in advanced.
Sorry the reason I say this is I will be doing install at friends and don't want to disable before going there since I won't be able to access under the wing if so.
 

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Sorry the reason I say this is I will be doing install at friends and don't want to disable before going there since I won't be able to access under the wing if so.
I wouldn't worry about the coding first. I'd leave everything on until the spoiler is completely removed otherwise you won't be able to extend it to remove the spoiler itself. You can drive home without coding anything. You'll just get annoying notifications on your dashboard. Mine is a 2018 so the OBDeleven tool worked great. I thought I saw someone with a later model R8 have an issue with that OBDeleven tool. It was an easy code out in both modules.
 

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I wouldn't worry about the coding first. I'd leave everything on until the spoiler is completely removed otherwise you won't be able to extend it to remove the spoiler itself. You can drive home without coding anything. You'll just get annoying notifications on your dashboard. Mine is a 2018 so the OBDeleven tool worked great. I thought I saw someone with a later model R8 have an issue with that OBDeleven tool. It was an easy code out in both modules.
Okay thanks. Yes that's why I wanted to it in reverse. Raise wing, remove, install fixed oem parts + upgraded wing. Then drive home and code out. I have a rossrech vcds tool i'm going to use. If it fails i'll just black marker sharpie out the light on the dash haha.
 

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Okay thanks. Yes that's why I wanted to it in reverse. Raise wing, remove, install fixed oem parts + upgraded wing. Then drive home and code out. I have a rossrech vcds tool i'm going to use. If it fails i'll just black marker sharpie out the light on the dash haha.
Good luck with the install. What year is your R8?
 

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Thanks for the write-up - is there any concern on your part around cooling, by using the non plus base plate? I'm in the process of getting a wing installed on my non plus, but I just seen a friend's + and it has a vent on the base plate.
Thanks...


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I have a gen2 non plus with all the mounting hardware and base plate Fromm Audi. (Running OEM plus wing). I have had the wing coded out by a local shop over 8months already and have not had any malfunction lights or issues with TC.

However the current shops says they are running into issues with traction control turning back on over 120mph. Anyone familiar with this? Or has this happening as well?

thanks
 

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