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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My current car, a 2004 Brilliant Black S4 V8, has a Protech protection layer. I still like the very plain black laqcuer on the S4, but because it's not a metallic lacquer its very delicate and sensitive to scratches.

I will apply a Protech protection layer on my R8 aswell. The cleaning is much more easier to do. In summer the bugs go off more easily etc.

The layer has a UV filter and the new waxing products are very easy and fast to use.

The Protech site: http://www.protech.mc/intro_pays.html
What will you do to take care of the lacquer of your R8?
 

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My local Audi dealer offers an 'Auto Glym' lifeshine treatment ... which I've had on my last two Audis ... although a lot of NSX owners that I know favour 'Maguiars' products ... effectively saying, without actually saying it, that Auto Glym products are rubbish by comparison ... so I might be giving 'Maguiars' a try on the R8 ... .co.uk_website ... .com_website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My local Audi dealer offers an 'Auto Glym' lifeshine treatment ... which I've had on my last two Audis ... although a lot of NSX owners that I know favour 'Maguiars' products ... effectively saying, without actually saying it, that Auto Glym products are rubbish by comparison ... so I might be giving 'Maguiars' a try on the R8 ... .co.uk_website ... .com_website.

Yes the stuff is nice, but the Protech layer is a permanent one. It's an acryl topping which has to be checked once in a year.

Does Mequiars have that too? Protech can only be applied by Protech centers.
 

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The snake oil salesman still exists, in many forms. I'm not saying "protech" doesn't offer fine products and I don't know their pricing either, but I do know none of them are worth more than about $15 a bottle. On the otherhand, if a careful and comprehensive "detail" is part of the process, it may be worth much more for the skilled labor alone. Virtually any product on a new condition finish will look great as long as it cleans the surface contaminants off and the thin layer it leaves behind is clear. Older surfaces with swirl scratches or worse can be TEMPORARILY "restored" with a product that fills these scratches in. ALL of these products will eventually wash off or simply evaporate depending on exposure and other factors. By far, the best way to really improve an older scratched or oxidized finish is a buffing wheel with a knowledgable operator.
The biggest problem with today's two-part polyurethane finishes is the surprising incidence of noticable "orange peel" appearance to the clear coat. The only way to fix this is wet sanding. Hopefully Audi has the R8 paintbooth set up properly to avoid this altogether, or factory wet sands the finish if it is in fact unavoidable!
 

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Yes the stuff is nice, but the Protech layer is a permanent one. It's an acryl topping which has to be checked once in a year.

Does Mequiars have that too? Protech can only be applied by Protech centers.
I think the Meguiars range is more for ... ongoing maintenance ... rather than ... protective coatings ... although I'm sure good quality treatments will help keep the car looking good.
 

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Try Armorfend film. Its a thin plastic film by 3M. Protects from UV and stone chips.

Applied at specialist centres, it can be removed if required.

It really works. Had it on an RS4 and RS6. Protected the side sills from scratching and the bonnet from chipping !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Try Armorfend film. Its a thin plastic film by 3M. Protects from UV and stone chips.

Applied at specialist centres, it can be removed if required.

It really works. Had it on an RS4 and RS6. Protected the side sills from scratching and the bonnet from chipping !
They only apply the front of the car, or the complete car?
 

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It a thin film. Generally used for the front i.e. bumper, exposed section of front wheel arch. Front 30 cm section of bonnet.

This is where most stone chip damage occurs.

I used it with great effect on the side sills of RS4 and also bonnet and wing tips. It is very easy to scratch the side sills when you get in or out - your shoes can brush against them. If you have any grit in the treads of your shoes, you will scratch it..............

Same for R8. When to the UK preview day today (Sunday 11th) and noticed how easy it is to rub your shoes against the sills.

In my case, the film prevented all scuffing of the side sills. Had it on the first RS4 for 4 years and it worked a treat.

Cover the car all over with film ? No.

If you want, use the acrylic coating mentioned all over and Armorfend for the front. It is 0.5mm thick and offers far greater stone chip and UV protection that a layer of acrylic 0.05 - 0.08mm or so thick.
 

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If you go for it, the price will most likely be a few hundred pounds, fitted whilst you wait. Get the ferry from Hook of Holland to Harwich, then a 1 hour drive to Nazeing............
 

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agree...
the main problem with any of these "permanent paint protection" products is that eventually you will have swirls in the paint. the only way to correct swirls is to remove them. when you remove swirls, you remove anything else that is on the paint, including these protection products. this means that these products can only last as long as your car stays swirl free- for most folks this is a few months... for us real fanatics (car is covered when its not being driven and is always freshly detailed) the car can stay swirl free longer- but its still gonna get them eventually.
for me, a good synthetic protectant (zaino, klasse, finish first, etc.) topped by a high quality carnuba does the trick.
forget the snake-oil salesmen!!


The snake oil salesman still exists, in many forms. I'm not saying "protech" doesn't offer fine products and I don't know their pricing either, but I do know none of them are worth more than about $15 a bottle. On the otherhand, if a careful and comprehensive "detail" is part of the process, it may be worth much more for the skilled labor alone. Virtually any product on a new condition finish will look great as long as it cleans the surface contaminants off and the thin layer it leaves behind is clear. Older surfaces with swirl scratches or worse can be TEMPORARILY "restored" with a product that fills these scratches in. ALL of these products will eventually wash off or simply evaporate depending on exposure and other factors. By far, the best way to really improve an older scratched or oxidized finish is a buffing wheel with a knowledgable operator.
The biggest problem with today's two-part polyurethane finishes is the surprising incidence of noticable "orange peel" appearance to the clear coat. The only way to fix this is wet sanding. Hopefully Audi has the R8 paintbooth set up properly to avoid this altogether, or factory wet sands the finish if it is in fact unavoidable!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
agree...
the main problem with any of these "permanent paint protection" products is that eventually you will have swirls in the paint. the only way to correct swirls is to remove them. when you remove swirls, you remove anything else that is on the paint, including these protection products. this means that these products can only last as long as your car stays swirl free- for most folks this is a few months... for us real fanatics (car is covered when its not being driven and is always freshly detailed) the car can stay swirl free longer- but its still gonna get them eventually.
for me, a good synthetic protectant (zaino, klasse, finish first, etc.) topped by a high quality carnuba does the trick.
forget the snake-oil salesmen!!

I feel honored! :) You are correct! My Brilliant Black S4 is washed and waxed with love. Not completely, but almost swirlfree! And that for a non metallic paint.

I comb my hair in it every morning :) LOL
 
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