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That BISL number is just the dimensions of the seal (ID-OD-Depth), not a part number as such. I found high temperature seals in that size very hard to track down, hence trying one 5mm thick rather than 4mm.
You can see how that fits in the photo's above, it's a good tight fit and I'd definitely recommend using a press to make sure its pushed in square. I did put a bit of Loctite around the outside as well just to make doubly sure it wasn't going anywhere. No leaks from it thus far so I'd say it works.

I did get two so can always just pop one in the post if you'd like to try it as well?
 

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That BISL number is just the dimensions of the seal (ID-OD-Depth), not a part number as such. I found high temperature seals in that size very hard to track down, hence trying one 5mm thick rather than 4mm.
You can see how that fits in the photo's above, it's a good tight fit and I'd definitely recommend using a press to make sure its pushed in square. I did put a bit of Loctite around the outside as well just to make doubly sure it wasn't going anywhere. No leaks from it thus far so I'd say it works.

I did get two so can always just pop one in the post if you'd like to try it as well?
Mate, that would be amazing yes please. Where are you in the UK? I'm northwest?
 

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It’s linear and rotary. The shaft moves forwards and backwards and rotates for gear selection. The seal is just a simple lip seal 20mm OD 12mm ID and 4mm deep. It is not retaining high pressure and only starts leaking as the temperature is high where it’s located and the NBR rubber degrades over time.


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It’s linear and rotary. The shaft moves forwards and backwards and rotates for gear selection. The seal is just a simple lip seal 20mm OD 12mm ID and 4mm deep. It is not retaining high pressure and only starts leaking as the temperature is high where it’s located and the NBR rubber degrades over time.


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Thank you. Difficult to find FKM seal (for high temperature) with metal outer ring.
Will continue to search...

Cheers,
 

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So it is possible to rebuild. You need to buy the seal and have some specialist tools to dismantle the unit, but I have done it and it’s all back together. Reason it fails is the unit is sat right under the exhaust silencer and has no heat shield so the seal dries out.
I am going to make a little heat shield to prevent it happening again.



All complete. New seal fitted and working. So it absolutely is serviceable.







Hi there , new to the forum so can't pm anyone yet, I am in the process of doing this, removal done seal in , having trouble putting it back, any suggestions or help will be appreciated.
 

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Hi there , new to the forum so can't pm anyone yet, I am in the process of doing this, removal done seal in , having trouble putting it back, any suggestions or help will be appreciated.
The only part that can change is the position of the selector mechanism when you undo the bolt to slide the shaft out of the housing. Refer to my post towards the end of the first page.

With the bolt in but before tightening, you should be able to see that the mechanism can rock from left to right without the shaft turning, this needs to be in the right place so you select the correct gears when fitted and in extreme circumstances, I can imagine how it wouldn't fit back at all, hope that helps!
 

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The only part that can change is the position of the selector mechanism when you undo the bolt to slide the shaft out of the housing. Refer to my post towards the end of the first page.

With the bolt in but before tightening, you should be able to see that the mechanism can rock from left to right without the shaft turning, this needs to be in the right place so you select the correct gears when fitted and in extreme circumstances, I can imagine how it wouldn't fit back at all, hope that helps!
Hi Sam, I managed to get it back and drove the car for around 80km , and it started feeling very notchy, have a feeling selector was locked in the wrong place, will try your advice sure it will help.
 

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As a future reference for other people facing the same, I made a heat shield from heat resistant fabric material which I bolted to existing holes in the rear of the shifter mechanism, see pic. Topgear F1 exhaust also melted connector of the reverse switch, which I replaced and heat shielded too. Has worked well so far. Interestingly, there is a heat shield for R-Tronic transmission installed from factory.

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