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Discussion Starter #121
Carbon surround is finished.
Just need to trim my headunit surround a tiny bit to sit back in properly and it’s all done. Should tie in nicely with the look of the “clubsport” interior.




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Looking very nice, well done.
 

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Another nice mod.
 

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attention to detail as always...great job bud:)
 

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Please let us know where you purchased the bushings for control arms ? Part # and price

also did it make a big difference?

Are these Same size in v10
 

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Discussion Starter #127
They are from a company call Vargalant. Yes it made a big difference. The V10 ones are different in size on some but not all.


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LOL, yeah it was tongue in cheek as I know people read things more than post, me included :)
I must admit I am quite happy to get rid of the mesh inserts, so am considering options for how to finish it off. The Gen2 got rid of them, which makes sense given their tendency to rust!
With regard to the chassis, as you say my main focus was working through getting everything absolutely spot on, the car had done 60K miles and it felt tight but not perfect and never felt fully planted. You never really know how people have replaced things, even the dealers. By replacing basically everything for new and properly following the right processes, I knew I would be starting from a datum, rather than second guessing stuff. The only "change" on the chassis was the the dampers/springs which I used benchmarks from high end suspension manufacturers and then played around with until I was happy they were working to my preference and I believe are an improvement over the stock units, while also allowing me to run slightly lower which I prefer aesthetically and dynamically.
For me the R8 is super sensitive to alignment and I am now doing that myself using proper string alignment, there is too much risk/tolerance/potential error in the laser systems and I had some poor results, where as the string if done correctly will be a much more robust method. Plus I can easily make changes and see the effects myself.
I’ve also noticed my BC Setup feels bouncy in the rear. Following your thread and there’s no way I can do any of the updates you did. I’m not mechanically inclined and even failed at reconnecting my engine LED’s when the plugs were loose. So told the dealership to fix when it was in for a service :)
 

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Discussion Starter #131
I’ve also noticed my BC Setup feels bouncy in the rear. Following your thread and there’s no way I can do any of the updates you did. I’m not mechanically inclined and even failed at reconnecting my engine LED’s when the plugs were loose. So told the dealership to fix when it was in for a service :)
Yeah I am lucky and glad I can do all the stuff myself. I would definitely recommend getting the springs changed, makes a huge difference


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All fitted and works nicely with the rest of the interior.

Jay




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gorgeous interior...big fan of RHD cars:)
 

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Discussion Starter #135
I have spent the last few months playing around with the ride height, geometry and dampers on the car and I believe optimising the BC coilovers for the Gen 1, so I am happy to share my thoughts on how I set it up.

This is all my opinion and everyone has their own views on what is a "great setup" but I have been trying lots and lots of different things and believe there is a very good setup lurking in these BC units.... which is in contradiction to what others may say. I also need to point out I live in the UK and the roads are different to those of the U.S, suffice to say they are more like the Nurburgring with some holes in it here than a smooth raceway.

First of all I believe the BC Coilovers are actually a very good quality damper unit, but simply have the wrong spring rates for the Gen 1 R8. The vast majority of other suspension manufacturers for the Gen 1 (Ohlins, H&R, Nitron etc..) use a higher rate spring on the front (13 or 14kg/mm) and then a similar or lower rate spring on the rear (10 to 13kg/mm). BC comes with the complete opposite. With 10kg/mm on the front and 14kg/mm on the rear. I found this extremely "bouncy" on the rear and only with excessive levels of damping could this be controlled to anything that felt "secure" and then on the front it felt a bit vague and indirect.

Having researched the spring rates of the other manufacturers and doing some sprung weight and spring frequency calculations I settled on Swift springs with a 14kg/mm rate for the front and 12kg/mm for the rear. There is a general acceptance (even by BC themselves) that their springs are not the best and they even offer the Swift springs as an upgrade, but any suitable rate springs from Eibach, Swift, Bilstein etc.. would be fine.

To say it transformed the dynamics of the car is an understatement. The level of rear end grip on fast back roads was a different level, the whole car felt secure and planted, but I still felt like there was more in there from the basic settings for the dampers.

The "standard" way people set these coilovers is to put a fixed preload on and then adjust the height using the bottom collars and move the damper in its mount. (as I did initially) This is fine for a quick "I want to slam my car and look cool" and it drive OK but in terms of true damping and handling is not optimised. You could be lucky and it hit right, but there are way too many variables in this, what ride height are you running? Spring rates? What wheel size/tyre? Car weight? etc.. which all affect where the damper ends up in its stroke and how much bump/rebound you end up with at your ride height.

What I am going to talk about below is probably way more effort than most people want to bother with, but it has made the biggest difference to my car in terms of pure ride quality than anything else.

The way these coilovers should be set and is proper practice for real chassis setup is to establish the full stroke of the dampers through the full suspension travel (for info on a Gen 1 R8 BCs are nominally 60mm stroke on the front and 70mm on the rear to the bump stop) With the wheels on and the damper in its full bump position you should make sure you have no interference on the body etc..
Then with the wheel at the height you want to run the car you set the damper stroke (by adjusting the bottom thread) to 1/3 compression of the full stroke (so on the front you would have 40mm left of travel to the bump stop and on the rear you would have 45mm of travel left). This then means at "static" ride height you have 2/3s of your bump travel left.
Once all this is done, you then fit the springs and wind the spring platforms up until the car is sitting back at that desired ride height.
Doing all this gives you optimum possible performance from these units. You have equal % droop, equal % bump and the car will ride the best it can.

Hope this helps and appreciate its not for everyone, but has certainly made a huge difference for me and has been commented on by others who have been in the car and say it rides like a mclaren 720 which will do for me :)


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Just read through this. Very impressive. This makes me want to pay you to fly out to me for a month or two and modify my V8 Spyder. I didn't even know I wanted some of these modifications until you installed them on your car. Your execution is flawless. Great job.
 

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wow jay excellent write up bud...i was really torn between KWs and this but now after reading this i think i'll go with BCs. i'll be saving this on my cell and replicate your setup. thanks for this...i really appreciated it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Just read through this. Very impressive. This makes me want to pay you to fly out to me for a month or two and modify my V8 Spyder. I didn't even know I wanted some of these modifications until you installed them on your car. Your execution is flawless. Great job.
Appreciate the kind words thanks. It always a back up career for me so maybe a trip to Chicago would be good


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Appreciate the kind words thanks. It always a back up career for me so maybe a trip to Chicago would be good


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You can't fly to Chicago just now safely but you could have a trip up to me in Edinburgh if you are considering offering a mobile modifying service😆😆

Absolutely loving your build thread, just ordered a Gen2 xbrace after finding out from you that it can actually be done & am trying to source a set of OEM wingbacks or Recaro Sportster CS seats as again the difference changing out the standard seats in your build has made the decision for me.

Huge thanks for the ongoing sharing of your build - a true inspiration for those of us trying to do the work ourselves & without the seemingly bottomless wallets of some of the other lucky forum members.
 
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Wow, inspiring build. We have very similar tastes so it's nice to see some of the custom work I was thinking of doing already done AND documented!

Care to share your wheel size/offsets and tire sizes?
 
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