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You have to split the transmission from the engine, the sensor (G476) is mounted on a bracket (1 bolt) which is located by 2 dowel pins. A special tool is recommended for removing the sensor bracket T10055. The sensor is $210 U.K. price. My suggestion if your mileage is high enough, is change the clutch at the same time, if R-Tronic, change the clutch release bearing as well. Overall an expensive job!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
were in the process now of taking the transmission out now, will check out the clutch and release bearing while we are at it...

thanks for your replies.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
some photos of the process, just finished taking out the oil canister

some interesting things i found out/notes .
-you can see the clutch through the trans to check the clutch life on an R-tronic (read somewhere thats only on a manual)

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will get better more docu-type photos off the process.
 

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Make sure nobody throws in an extra piece, you´ll spend the rest of your time with the car wondering where it came from when it´s left over at the end of the job kkkkkk.
 

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Hell yeah man! Love to see others getting in there and fixing it themselves. Any pics of where the inspection hole is to see the clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
update:

transmssion is off checking everything out it seems the release bearing is in need of replacement for sure...so maybe the sensor is working perfectly fine doing its job...the car is at 65k this seems to be the first replacement of the clutch and release bearing.

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Discussion Starter #14
will be replacing the bearings as well...anyone have the part number to the bearing on the bottom right of the flywheel ? where the shaft goes to the front diff?

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update:

transmssion is off checking everything out it seems the release bearing is in need of replacement for sure...so maybe the sensor is working perfectly fine doing its job...the car is at 65k this seems to be the first replacement of the clutch and release bearing.

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If you look closely at your flywheel and your clutch discs, you will see rings/circles on both of them. It looks like that it's not releasing properly. This could have been caused by a bad throw out bearing or the pressure plate that is going bad. It looks like that you should replace the clutch too. This is one of the reasons that it's stuck in Neutral.

Another issue that you might be having is that your actuator possibly has a leak. When the actuator can't hold pressure, the R-tronic system sees that and to protect the transmission, the default is neutral so that's why it's stuck in neutral.

Your accumulator might not be holding the pressure. It's a good practice to replace that too. It's not very expensive so it would be a good idea to do that.

You should replace the clutch position sensor whether it is good or bad because as you see, if it goes bad, the labor is the same as a clutch replacement. Now that you're here, you should also replace the rear main seal. All these are good insurances because they are all very inexpensive but the labor to replace them is very expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
If you look closely at your flywheel and your clutch discs, you will see rings/circles on both of them. It looks like that it's not releasing properly. This could have been caused by a bad throw out bearing or the pressure plate that is going bad. It looks like that you should replace the clutch too. This is one of the reasons that it's stuck in Neutral.

Another issue that you might be having is that your actuator possibly has a leak. When the actuator can't hold pressure, the R-tronic system sees that and to protect the transmission, the default is neutral so that's why it's stuck in neutral.

Your accumulator might not be holding the pressure. It's a good practice to replace that too. It's not very expensive so it would be a good idea to do that.

You should replace the clutch position sensor whether it is good or bad because as you see, if it goes bad, the labor is the same as a clutch replacement. Now that you're here, you should also replace the rear main seal. All these are good insurances because they are all very inexpensive but the labor to replace them is very expensive.
thank you,

were have pretty much have everything you mentioned on order ...will check the actuator and accumulator now
 

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some really good tips for a clutch change...

really a lot work, so you know why a clutch change is so expensive.

@hi Tech:
my clutch needs ages till the point it start to engage during a take off and also when changing gear while defensive driving, also in sport mode. Also at reverse driving it takes ages till it starts engaging. After start of engaging its engaging fast and without slip. But till it starts to engage the clutch it feels like a long empty way were nothing happening.
Under hard driving/shifting its starting to engage and is engaging fast and no slipage at all, even to a point were I get rear wheels spin during shifting.
What could course that? How could I fix this?
Have a TCU tune from German Monitoring, so shifting is faster then OEM. R8 V8 has 35000km and from engine side bone stock plus driven like a Rolce Royce for 28000km from the previous owner, a rolce royce collector (delivery tires had 6mm from 8 new :) and where the only tyres he had for the R8)
 

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some really good tips for a clutch change...

really a lot work, so you know why a clutch change is so expensive.

@hi Tech:
my clutch needs ages till the point it start to engage during a take off and also when changing gear while defensive driving, also in sport mode. Also at reverse driving it takes ages till it starts engaging. After start of engaging its engaging fast and without slip. But till it starts to engage the clutch it feels like a long empty way were nothing happening.
Under hard driving/shifting its starting to engage and is engaging fast and no slipage at all, even to a point were I get rear wheels spin during shifting.
What could course that? How could I fix this?
Have a TCU tune from German Monitoring, so shifting is faster then OEM. R8 V8 has 35000km and from engine side bone stock plus driven like a Rolce Royce for 28000km from the previous owner, a rolce royce collector (delivery tires had 6mm from 8 new :) and where the only tyres he had for the R8)
Unfortunately, the engagement of R-tronic and E-gear is very long. That's why we estimate that 60-70% of clutch wear happens when you're taking off from a dead stop. Our Kevlar clutches have quicker engagement and that's one of the reasons our Kevlar clutches last longer. It's called CEM(Clutch Engagement Mechanism). We set up our clutches with quicker engagement. This is very difficult to do because if it engages too quickly then the clutch bucks and jerks. Our CEM Version 2 is the quickest and it's still smoother than a stock. That's not easy to do.

TCU upgrade helps the shifting but it might not help the engagement from a dead stop. It is really dependent on how they programmed the TCU. Has your clutch engagement got slower from before or is it the same? If it's worse than before, then your clutch can be at the end of its life. If you're clutch is getting thin, then it takes longer to engage. It's like brake pads. If you don't a lot of brake pads left, then there is more travel on the brake pedal.

Another important fact is that if your clutch discs are glazed. We have had stock clutches that had 50% left but it was slipping. This was caused because the discs were glazed and had no holding capacity. You can get glazed discs by doing a lot reverse in uphill road. I would try avoid reversing uphill if you can help it.
 
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