Audi R8 Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The OEM brake fluid appears to be a questionable item if used at the track - :eek:

I have 5 customers who have experienced track day ending bouts of fluid boiling - heads up if you plan to take your R8 to a track day, and drive it more than casually/beginner level.

Pedal to the floor
Soft pedal
Pedal length and feel changes lap to lap

Heads up. Your safety depends on it.
Feedback indicates Motul RBF600 seems to help the situation.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SRF is normally not needed in most nearly every situation - and I hear of corrosion issues - not 100% verified, however.
I just cannot believe how weak and worthless the OEM Audi fluid is.....

The yellows will squeak on the street but cannot be beat for track use.
Same compound as most professional teams use - long life, low rotor wear:

RS 19 Yellow
Best compound for endurance racing on the basis of the RS14. A slight reduction of the friction value improves the modulation (controllability). Nevertheless, the friction value is enough for cars without power-assisted brake system and ensures comfortable low effort on the brake pedal. Constant temperatures up to 600°C (1,100°F) are possible. The combination of friction value, fading stability and low wear rates on pads and discs (rotors) realised with this material is unmatched up to now. Due to its excellent release characteristics and controllability PAGID endurance materials are also often used for sprint races. A multiple winner of Daytona 24h, Le Mans 24h, Sebring 12h, Spa 24 h, Nürburgring 24h, often with no pad change and usually no disc (rotor) change. Application: All endurance racing cars from Group N (Speed-WC, Grand Am Cup), Group A up to GT and Sport-Prototypes (Grand Am DP).

RS 29 Yellow
RS29 combines the outstanding wear rate of the RS19 with a slightly higher coefficient of friction and initial bite. Due to its excellent driveability PAGID endurance materials are also often used for sprint races. Application: All endurance racing cars from group N (Speed-WC, Grand Am Cup), Group A up to GT and Sport-Prototypes (Grand Am DP).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From Pagid:

2.) fluid fade
Boiling brake fluid develops gas bubbles in the calipers. The brake pedal becomes soft and pedal travel increases (because gas is compressible). One can still stop the car by pumping the pedal but efficient modulation is gone. This is a gradual process with advanced warning. The damaged fluid must be completely replaced. Correcting the problem is improved cooling and / or may only require new or higher grade racing brake fluid. The importance of keeping fresh brake fluid in the system and regular bleeding (before every session) cannot be overstressed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Don't wish to question your own expertise, but are your customers 100% certain that it is the brake fluid boiling, and not just pad fade? As the two different scenarios can still display similar symptoms.


I just cannot believe how weak and worthless the OEM Audi fluid is.....
Huh, WTF? I thought Audi sold ROAD cars, not racing cars! And the OEM fluid is perfectly fine in serious heavyweights such as the B7 RS4 and C6 RS6, even with the additional heat developed by the ceramic brakes!

The OEM Audi fluid is probably one of the highest spec DOT4 fluids available, and actually out-performs many so-called DOT5.1 fluids. And the OEM fluid is a special low viscosity fluid as required for the ABS/ESP modulator, which meets the VW 501.14 standard.

Finally, from model year 2008, ONLY fluids which meet 501.14 must be used, otherwise (in Britain and Europe at least) your warranty will be voided.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not a problem.

I am absolutely, objectively, 100 percent certain of boiling of R8 fluid.

It is NOT pad fade, it is regular ol' pedal-sinking fluid boiling........which, taught to me by and according to actual breathing R8 owners, is cured by replacing it with Motul RBF600.

This is what I've been told based on owners' experience.
5 people so far -

As far as warranty etc, I do not know.

Please provide links and documentation for:
1) OEM fluid specs and how it outperforms.
2) Warranty issues.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top