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Weight saving 95 lbs
Drive train loss recouped back about 12% to 15%
I'm guessing 15-25 HP on a dyno. If I do the conversion, I'll do a before and after dyno.

To make it completely fair, I think both runs should be done with an AWD dyno. The car is still required to use power to spin the front wheels whether or not they are directly connected to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So it has been in for 2 full days now and here is my review:

Short version: best mod you can do for these cars, almost feels as meant to be RWD from factory

Long: really does liven up the car in all the best ways, feels more direct and sharper. There is def more noticeable traction loss when tires are cold, but as soon as they warm up, i hook still every time at full throttle, even from a launch in 1st it is still about the same wheel spin with warm tires. Easily faster in the higher gears. Traction control still works perfectly fine with it, in sport (whatever the one push is instead of holding it for off) it still helps manage the slide. This is a fantastic mod for our cars

Stuff that should be noted if youre doing it yourself: you will need a 17mm hex socket for the axlenuts, plus an m10 and m8 socket for the driveshaft and dif. I only mention these bc they are rarer sockets that most will not have (i didnt lol)
Also, installation without a lift (jackstands only) took me and 2 others 6 hours, but this is including time for 2 trips to the store and the most stubbornly siezed driveshaft according to shardul, that def cost us atleast an extra hour

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

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So it has been in for 2 full days now and here is my review:

Short version: best mod you can do for these cars, almost feels as meant to be RWD from factory

Long: really does liven up the car in all the best ways, feels more direct and sharper. There is def more noticeable traction loss when tires are cold, but as soon as they warm up, i hook still every time at full throttle, even from a launch in 1st it is still about the same wheel spin with warm tires. Easily faster in the higher gears. Traction control still works perfectly fine with it, in sport (whatever the one push is instead of holding it for off) it still helps manage the slide. This is a fantastic mod for our cars

Stuff that should be noted if youre doing it yourself: you will need a 17mm hex socket for the axlenuts, plus an m10 and m8 socket for the driveshaft and dif. I only mention these bc they are rarer sockets that most will not have (i didnt lol)
Also, installation without a lift (jackstands only) took me and 2 others 6 hours, but this is including time for 2 trips to the store and the most stubbornly siezed driveshaft according to shardul, that def cost us atleast an extra hour

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Thanks for the review. Is your car a V8 or V10?
 

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Hi

awd to rws are some horsepower.
Look at the wheel power of my R8 V8 RWS and the engine power.
Difference wheel to engine are 54.7 HP
I've been driving rws since 2013
A maximum of +10 HP can be achieved.

Tom

I'm guessing 15-25 HP on a dyno. If I do the conversion, I'll do a before and after dyno.

To make it completely fair, I think both runs should be done with an AWD dyno. The car is still required to use power to spin the front wheels whether or not they are directly connected to the engine.
 

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Hi, dragging this old thread back to the present.

I am seriously considering a rwd conversion on my 2008 V8, I know some of you have tried and tested it now and lived with it.
The conversion is simply unbolting parts and adding the front hub converters, and unplugging the diff temp sensor ?
Does the car need any reprogramming ?
Does the traction work properly, does the car think there are front wheels connected to power and mess the traction up ?
Does the loss of weight at the front show more tyre to arch gap ?
Will the converted car feel more nimble and like my M3 ?

Finally and probably the best reason for doing the conversion, does it stop the awful steering problem on lock where it feels like the tyres are getting pulled off of the rims and sounds as bad too ?

Thanks
 

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Hello Plumb
This is how the R8 should come from the factory. No codes, traction works perfect and steering feel is 100% improved. Wheel arch may be a very slight bit higher, really cant say I see a difference.The best mod you can do after exhaust. Unless you live in a region and have bad weather problems I would not hesitate
You will love it
 

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Does lowering springs and uprated anti roll bars sort the handling out after the conversion ?
 

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The only question I had was how does the internal differential portion of the drivetrain handle it with no front diff with regards to torque biasing? When it comes to Subaru not Audi, a Subaru requires a plate and mechanical lock to do the same mod similar to what was done for Saker kit cars of past. Or does the front drive flange, out of the center diff, simply go for the ride? I would want to see the long term affect from this conversion.
 

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Hi

The viscous clutch in front of the front axle differential prevents permanent driving of the front axle.
The visco clutch only engages at a speed difference of 100 revolutions and becomes positive.
When the visco oil is switched off (temperature low), the connection is released and the drive to the front axle goes out.

Tom
 

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Hi

The Audi R8 Gen1 is technically like the Gallardo and with the Balboni Gallardo RWS they have adapted the torsion bar for the rear-wheel drive. I've been driving like this for years and it's perfect.

Tom

Does lowering springs and uprated anti roll bars sort the handling out after the conversion ?
 
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