I'm guessing 15-25 HP on a dyno. If I do the conversion, I'll do a before and after dyno.Weight saving 95 lbs
Drive train loss recouped back about 12% to 15%
Thanks for the review. Is your car a V8 or V10?So it has been in for 2 full days now and here is my review:
Short version: best mod you can do for these cars, almost feels as meant to be RWD from factory
Long: really does liven up the car in all the best ways, feels more direct and sharper. There is def more noticeable traction loss when tires are cold, but as soon as they warm up, i hook still every time at full throttle, even from a launch in 1st it is still about the same wheel spin with warm tires. Easily faster in the higher gears. Traction control still works perfectly fine with it, in sport (whatever the one push is instead of holding it for off) it still helps manage the slide. This is a fantastic mod for our cars
Stuff that should be noted if youre doing it yourself: you will need a 17mm hex socket for the axlenuts, plus an m10 and m8 socket for the driveshaft and dif. I only mention these bc they are rarer sockets that most will not have (i didnt lol)
Also, installation without a lift (jackstands only) took me and 2 others 6 hours, but this is including time for 2 trips to the store and the most stubbornly siezed driveshaft according to shardul, that def cost us atleast an extra hour
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I'm guessing 15-25 HP on a dyno. If I do the conversion, I'll do a before and after dyno.
To make it completely fair, I think both runs should be done with an AWD dyno. The car is still required to use power to spin the front wheels whether or not they are directly connected to the engine.
Does lowering springs and uprated anti roll bars sort the handling out after the conversion ?