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Discussion Starter #1
Hey ya'll,

TLDR: I'm a longtime lurker, going from GT3s to an R8 V10+. 5-10+ track days a year and would like to get my head around what is needed for track duty in a Gen 2.

For the track enthusiasts, I have a few questions:

Track Prep: How often do you change oil & type, flush brakes, check fluids, etc.?

Safety:
Bar/Cage: Doesn't look like anyone has made a repeatable kit yet for a half cage/roll bar? Harness bars don't pass a lot of track inspections in the US.
Harnesses: 5-6 points are the standard. I prefer Sparco Evos+cage+Hans but will track the car in OEM form a few times before doing anything drastic.

Tires:
Track Pack: The Audi OEM pack comes with custom MPSC2s. Are these custom wheel offsets and tire sizes?
Tires: I've seen MPSC2s and Pirelli Trefeo Rs - no Dunlops or Hoosiers or is that just due to 20"?

Suspension:
Springs vs Coilovers:
KW HAS vs H&R. Are their no true coil overs or just height-adjustable springs? How is dampening with the stock struts and the clearance for street driving without front-lift? Any recommended custom spring rates or just purchase off the shelf?
Rubber vs Solid Bushings: What's the verdict and where is it important i.e. bump-steer, toe, etc.?
Sway Bars: Anything to be gained with a larger, thicker bar or CF?
Alignment/Geo: Are there recommended Camber/Toe/Caster/Rake settings for street/track use?

Brakes:
Brake Rotors
: How many have put the CCBs on the shelf for Irons like Girodisc, AP, or RBs? I'd be surprised to hear that Audi CCB compounds somehow outlast anyone else with track duty.
Brake Pads: Implying switch to Irons = Pagid RS29s or RS19s? or Pagid 29s F and 19s Rear? or Ferodo? Other?
Fluid: RBF 600, 660, or Castrol?

Thanks all in advance. I'm sure this is contained in multiple threads, many I've read but still have questions.
 

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I've only got one track day on my Gen 2 at Sebring. There are others on here (Nate, MAR8, etc.) that have tracked the Gen 2 R8 multiple times and may be better source of info.

Can't help you on the harness.

Tires I used Pilot 4S. My car is daily driven so I just took it there "almost" as-is. They did okay but certainly understeer at limit.

Suspension: Can't help you there either. I have the V10 Plus and found it handled great as is.

Brakes: Yeah I won't go with the CCBs again. I used Castrol SRF braking fluid. That was the only major change. I went in May (hot/humid) and there were plenty of other cars that used Motul and had the brakes start to let's just say...weak. The CCBs + Castrol SRF man did they bite hard and consistently. In the end, had to replace the rear pads. Front pads and the rotors survived a 2 day weekend of racing.

Car took it like a champ otherwise. Drove to and from the track (over 2 hours away) and I continue to daily it. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Has anyone had any oil issues i.e. require baffles, pans or accusumps?
 

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No issues here and with the dry sump system it should be fine.
 

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lol. i don't know how hard core you plan to go, but this car is GT3 RS level ready for the track - as in- nothing needs to be done to it except maybe dedicated track tires. suspension is perfect. not sure you'd notice any difference with high temp brake fluid since it has the CCBs. plenty of shops can custom fit a harness bar in the rear shelf if you need one. just watch the pads- make sure they are at least 3 mm then change them. if they get too close the brake wear indicator may not let you know till the front edge of the liner contacts the rotors and then you'll be screwed. those rotors are $$$.

you will be shocked how easy it is to live with this car. it is almost too easy. ask me why i've had 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I attend or coach at 15-25 track days a year and have seen it all. There are always weak links somewhere that get exposed with every streetcar, even GT3RS, and thought I'd try to get some insight and plan ahead before pulling the trigger. Overall, it sounds like the R8 actually has few which is good news!

What I have been surprised to hear, however, is the high amount of trust in the CCBs on much of this forum for mixed street and track use. It's undebatable about the street life of CCBs but I doubt there is some miracle compound only Audi has figured out for track use as many of these are made in mass at the same factories by the same companies and simply stamped for their make and application. I've seen plenty of these fail at the track on nearly every car they've come standard on in a variety of conditions and with all skill levels of drivers. Porsches, Ferraris, McLarens, Corvettes, Audis, everything. High Temp fluid is a no brainer regardless of Carbon or Iron and yes, even CCBs can boil fluid under track use. Heat is a killer and in more rare occasions, this can also include cooking the sensor so there's no indicator of pad wear when you're lapping. Some of that can be solved with ruthless inspection and bringing spare pads to the track for a between session paddock change but it is also far more common than some may think to have track debris reach the caliper or pad and scratch the disks on track. For many good reasons, and not just within the Porsche community, many of us that do over 5 track days a year have switched to Irons+Pagids and seen reliability, similar feel, and less cost. If you can afford to have a set of CCBs go toast after a single track weekend, which does happen, go for it but I wouldn't put myself in that camp. For Iron replacements, I've had great experiences with Girodisk on multiple previous cars and curious if anyone has any preference for those versus others i.e. AP, RB, Brembo, etc.

For the cage, I'll probably call Dundon or Cantrell (local to me) and see what they might be able to put together. I'm surprised this hasn't already been built but perhaps we can put together a street-able template.

Wheel/Tire wise, I'll purchase a dedicated set of forged wheels unless the stockers are the best fit for the job. Wondering how well-stocked the Audi R8 specific tires/compounds are.

Excited to read and learn more. All indications seem like the R8 has some serious potential without many drawbacks.
 

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Will give you answers in your well organized notes. We do custom suspension sale, development and support for the R8 Gen 1 and Gen 2 (along with many Audi's, Porsche's, BMW's and the '05-'06 Ford GT). All Ohlins coilovers. We run at Road America and Grattan so far. Looking at COTA. For reference, I am a 25 year chassis / vehicle dynamics guy in motorsports and the '05 - '06 Ford GT when I was at Ford. That included ride and handling development and driving 200 mph on our 5 mile oval.


Hey ya'll,

TLDR: I'm a longtime lurker, going from GT3s to an R8 V10+. 5-10+ track days a year and would like to get my head around what is needed for track duty in a Gen 2.

For the track enthusiasts, I have a few questions:

Track Prep: How often do you change oil & type, flush brakes, check fluids, etc.?
Annually unless I have had a brake issue / fluid boil then right afterward.


Safety:
Bar/Cage: Doesn't look like anyone has made a repeatable kit yet for a half cage/roll bar? Harness bars don't pass a lot of track inspections in the US.
Harnesses: 5-6 points are the standard. I prefer Sparco Evos+cage+Hans but will track the car in OEM form a few times before doing anything drastic.
Yeah this is a big endeavor. We just run track days and it is not required. Even at 160 mph Road America. But a good idea if you want to be quite safe. They do make HANS options that have a chest harness and work with the standard 3 point belts. One of my teammates uses these for development for Ford and likes it.


Tires:
Track Pack: The Audi OEM pack comes with custom MPSC2s. Are these custom wheel offsets and tire sizes?
Tires: I've seen MPSC2s and Pirelli Trefeo Rs - no Dunlops or Hoosiers or is that just due to 20"?
Yes we run the MPSC2's on the track on our 2012 R8 V10. I like them a lot for grip (even in the wet), handling, steering, ride, and durability. I have run 7 half an hour sessions at Road America and (3) half an hour sessions at Grattan on the SC2's and only used 1 mm of tread even all of the way across. That is pulling about 1G in braking everywhere and 1.2 G in the corners. However, while I have gotten some decent slides I tend to stay within the tire and not try to past it / abuse it. I do not run traction / stability control on the track because I get it to go off a bit (when I don't need it) and its incredibly hard on the brakes.

Suspension:
Springs vs Coilovers:
KW HAS vs H&R. Are their no true coil overs or just height-adjustable springs? How is dampening with the stock struts and the clearance for street driving without front-lift? Any recommended custom spring rates or just purchase off the shelf?
Well, I am biased here of course, but we run our custom developed Ahlman Performance Ohlins TTX Street Performance coil-overs for Gen 1, which is ride height and 2-way damping adjustable (4-way available). This set up is great for the road (as good or better ride than stock) with more direct / linear/ predictable steering (with a lot less steering wheel vibration and oscillation) and better grip (rough road and smooth) and handling for the track. Also, less balance change through the entire corner (entry, middle to exit). You can see this thread for the Ohlins Coilovers for Gen 2. They are a little stiffer and more track biased than our Street Performance set up, but I am glad to work with you on putting this Street Performance setup on your Gen 2 for the price of the base Ohlins kit.

Rubber vs Solid Bushings: What's the verdict and where is it important i.e. bump-steer, toe, etc.?
As a suspension designer I am not a fan of the "solid" / urethane bushings for multiple reasons. I would go to special sphericals / heim joints instead. But I don't think this is remotely worth it if you spend anytime on the street...even with up to 10 track days...unless you are racing. The R8 behaves really well on the track / at the limit. And our Ohlins coil-overs make it very responsive yet predictable.

Sway Bars: Anything to be gained with a larger, thicker bar or CF?
Honestly the R8 is quite stiff in corner springs and bars. Those bars and springs are huge compared to what we ran on the Ford GT. Adding anti- bar size can help you with balance of the car and it runs flatter, but actually reduces grip level on smooth and especially rough road. Also the changes we made in springs and damping actually make the car more predictable and stable on entry, less understeer mid-corner and better power down on exit.

Alignment/Geo: Are there recommended Camber/Toe/Caster/Rake settings for street/track use?
You will find threads on this by a few here. But from my perspective - the R8 behavior and tire wear at stock settings, even with the car lowered nearly a half inch is quite good. You could increase camber, for example, which is already over 1 deg and can increase cornering grip, but decreases braking and power down grip. Tradeoffs.

Brakes:
Brake Rotors
: How many have put the CCBs on the shelf for Irons like Girodisc, AP, or RBs? I'd be surprised to hear that Audi CCB compounds somehow outlast anyone else with track duty.
I ran stock rotors and they have bad shudder after the 3 track events and Endless MX72 pads (discussed below). Going to Girodisc rotors next.
Brake Pads: Implying switch to Irons = Pagid RS29s or RS19s? or Pagid 29s F and 19s Rear? or Ferodo? Other?
I went through a set of Endless MX72's in (4) 30 minute sessions at Road America. They are meant for street and light track use I guess. Good feel. No noise. But not enough stopping power, had some fade and awful wear (and no front brake sensor). So I have to figure something else out like the Pagids...I just hate all of the reports on noise.
Fluid: RBF 600, 660, or Castrol?
I boiled the stock fluid badly at Road America even though it was new fluid and flushed a few months before the track. (I was so used to the stock Ford GT brakes being so good everywhere, including Road America, that I didn't think it would be an issue.) A local shop said they run the new Brembo HTC64T fluid in their R8 GT3 race cars fluid with extremely high wet and dry boiling temps (Higher than Castrol SRF). And not to expensive or corrosive like SRF. I ran this and my brake fluid issues were gone.

The braking on the R8 is the weakest aspect of the car from a track perspective IMHO. I have some work to do to brake anywhere near what I was used to at Road America or otherwise in a stock Ford GT. I am guessing the brakes need some upgraded cooling.

Hope this helps. Contact me anytime with questions...and for sure if you want to upgrade your coilovers!



Thanks all in advance. I'm sure this is contained in multiple threads, many I've read but still have questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Much appreciated, great to hear from someone with a lot of experience and detail! Thank you

____

Track Prep: How often do you change oil & type, flush brakes, check fluids, etc.?
Annually unless I have had a brake issue / fluid boil then right afterward.

With Irons, I'd typically bleed before and after each track weekend at minimum. Sounds like with SRF or equivalent you might be able to get by much longer and anything more would be extra precautionary.

____

Safety:
Bar/Cage: Doesn't look like anyone has made a repeatable kit yet for a half cage/roll bar? Harness bars don't pass a lot of track inspections in the US.
Harnesses: 5-6 points are the standard. I prefer Sparco Evos+cage+Hans but will track the car in OEM form a few times before doing anything drastic.
Yeah this is a big endeavor. We just run track days and it is not required. Even at 160 mph Road America. But a good idea if you want to be quite safe. They do make HANS options that have a chest harness and work with the standard 3 point belts. One of my teammates uses these for development for Ford and likes it.

The Gen 2 V10+ I'm looking for will have the stock buckets to start so I'll likely see how well those perform but highly prefer a HANS/FIA capable setup at the speeds this car is able to achieve. Having wrecked before, a harness and half cage at least is where I feel most comfortable but will start with a Simpson Hybrid for the 3pt for now.

I cringe every time I watch some high horsepower car review video on the track and see the speeds they're reaching without a helmet on, etc. The capabilities of modern cars today, especially at this level, are insane and the level of risk never changes, its simply the amount of which you're willing to accept and sometimes bad things just happen.

_

Tires:
Track Pack: The Audi OEM pack comes with custom MPSC2s. Are these custom wheel offsets and tire sizes?
Tires: I've seen MPSC2s and Pirelli Trefeo Rs - no Dunlops or Hoosiers or is that just due to 20"?
Yes we run the MPSC2's on the track on our 2012 R8 V10. I like them a lot for grip (even in the wet), handling, steering, ride, and durability. I have run 7 half an hour sessions at Road America and (3) half an hour sessions at Grattan on the SC2's and only used 1 mm of tread even all of the way across. That is pulling about 1G in braking everywhere and 1.2 G in the corners. However, while I have gotten some decent slides I tend to stay within the tire and not try to past it / abuse it. I do not run traction / stability control on the track because I get it to go off a bit (when I don't need it) and its incredibly hard on the brakes.

I do like the MPSC2s but their fall off is real and can't be measured in the amount of tread left. I've killed a set of those over a few weekends, even in the middle of a track weekend where my laptimes dropped 2-3secs and they completely lost their hold. I'll have to research some additional, more predictable Rcomp options but at 20" the options are pretty limited. They may be the best bang for the buck on a dedicated set of track wheels while a more seasonal performance tire, like the 4S, would be for daily and whenever its going to rain.

____

Suspension:
Springs vs Coilovers:
KW HAS vs H&R. Are their no true coil overs or just height-adjustable springs? How is dampening with the stock struts and the clearance for street driving without front-lift? Any recommended custom spring rates or just purchase off the shelf?
Well, I am biased here of course, but we run our custom developed Ahlman Performance Ohlins TTX Street Performance coil-overs for Gen 1, which is ride height and 2-way damping adjustable (4-way available). This set up is great for the road (as good or better ride than stock) with more direct / linear/ predictable steering (with a lot less steering wheel vibration and oscillation) and better grip (rough road and smooth) and handling for the track. Also, less balance change through the entire corner (entry, middle to exit). You can see this thread for the Ohlins Coilovers for Gen 2. They are a little stiffer and more track biased than our Street Performance set up, but I am glad to work with you on putting this Street Performance setup on your Gen 2 for the price of the base Ohlins kit.

Very familiar with Ohlins as I've had their Road & Track previously and excited to review this option with you. Will send a direct message as I'd like to test these and am happy to be a guinea pig for spring rates and custom valving. Perhaps the TTX is bulletproof out of the box, excited to find out.

__

Rubber vs Solid Bushings: What's the verdict and where is it important i.e. bump-steer, toe, etc.?
As a suspension designer I am not a fan of the "solid" / urethane bushings for multiple reasons. I would go to special sphericals / heim joints instead. But I don't think this is remotely worth it if you spend anytime on the street...even with up to 10 track days...unless you are racing. The R8 behaves really well on the track / at the limit. And our Ohlins coil-overs make it very responsive yet predictable.

With the arm design on the front and rear, solid bushing options are probably overkill and would likely ruin the street experience but I'm always interested in ways to make the car handle more predictably, consistently, and reliably. Once I pick my R8 up and get it on a lift, I'll probably have more questions.

____

Sway Bars: Anything to be gained with a larger, thicker bar or CF?
Honestly the R8 is quite stiff in corner springs and bars. Those bars and springs are huge compared to what we ran on the Ford GT. Adding anti- bar size can help you with balance of the car and it runs flatter, but actually reduces grip level on smooth and especially rough road. Also the changes we made in springs and damping actually make the car more predictable and stable on entry, less understeer mid-corner and better power down on exit.

As an AWD, I wonder what the GT2/GT3 class R8s run as it would be very interesting to see what changes they make based on track specifics i.e. in some cases on AWD and RWD cars we'd run with no front or no rear sway bar all together to counter understeer and increase oversteer or switch from light to heavy bars based on circumstance. The stock setup is probably more than enough but would be very interested in investigating this further.

__

Alignment/Geo: Are there recommended Camber/Toe/Caster/Rake settings for street/track use?
You will find threads on this by a few here. But from my perspective - the R8 behavior and tire wear at stock settings, even with the car lowered nearly a half inch is quite good. You could increase camber, for example, which is already over 1 deg and can increase cornering grip, but decreases braking and power down grip. Tradeoffs.

Based on the weight distribution, I wonder where this may make sense for a street/track setup and how far you could go before diminishing returns i.e. you get more camber and better turn-in at the expense that the car is darty and shifty on the street and trams in highway lanes. I'll have to look into this more. Not concerned with tire wear beyond where it matters.

__

Brakes:
Brake Rotors
: How many have put the CCBs on the shelf for Irons like Girodisc, AP, or RBs? I'd be surprised to hear that Audi CCB compounds somehow outlast anyone else with track duty.
I ran stock rotors and they have bad shudder after the 3 track events and Endless MX72 pads (discussed below). Going to Girodisc rotors next.
Brake Pads: Implying switch to Irons = Pagid RS29s or RS19s? or Pagid 29s F and 19s Rear? or Ferodo? Other?
I went through a set of Endless MX72's in (4) 30 minute sessions at Road America. They are meant for street and light track use I guess. Good feel. No noise. But not enough stopping power, had some fade and awful wear (and no front brake sensor). So I have to figure something else out like the Pagids...I just hate all of the reports on noise.
Fluid: RBF 600, 660, or Castrol?
I boiled the stock fluid badly at Road America even though it was new fluid and flushed a few months before the track. (I was so used to the stock Ford GT brakes being so good everywhere, including Road America, that I didn't think it would be an issue.) A local shop said they run the new Brembo HTC64T fluid in their R8 GT3 race cars fluid with extremely high wet and dry boiling temps (Higher than Castrol SRF). And not to expensive or corrosive like SRF. I ran this and my brake fluid issues were gone.

The braking on the R8 is the weakest aspect of the car from a track perspective IMHO. I have some work to do to brake anywhere near what I was used to at Road America or otherwise in a stock Ford GT. I am guessing the brakes need some upgraded cooling.

Hope this helps. Contact me anytime with questions...and for sure if you want to upgrade your coilovers!


I've never used Endless but familiar with similar pads from Pagid, Ferodo, etc. Noise never matters to me on the street as the trips are short and you shouldn't be driving anywhere near the speeds needed to get them to temp on the road. There's probably a mix based on the weight, heat, and size of the rotors that would work brilliantly with Irons such as Pagid 29 fronts and 19 rears which many have used on P-cars to balance brake bias, pedal feel, stopping power, and the personal "correct" amount of bite. My personal style is more momentum so I may have a lot to investigate here before swapping rotors to Irons and heading to the track.

____

Thanks all in advance. I'm sure this is contained in multiple threads, many I've read but still have questions.
[/QUOTE]

Again, much appreciated. Will continue to update this as I learn and find out more
 

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awesome post Scott. vndr- i think you have your answer. i only track 3 x a year so going that hard core is not necessary. good to know about the the high temp if you really are pushing it. also- with your instructor skill level then you probably fit the bill!
 

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I'm in the same boat, not as hard core and only track 2-3 times a year. Run the stock CCB's that come on the plus but purchased a set of Pagid RSC1's dedicated for the track that I swap out for track weekends at home. 660 fluid changed yearly and I tend to change my oil after a hard track weekend unless yearly service is around the corner. I did purchase a set 19" forged monoblocks to save a ton of rotational mass compared to the stock wheels. Plus a lot more tire options. Have been running cup 2's on the track wheels and getting 2-3 weekends out of a set but I'm a 5/10 6/10 driver at best so ymmv on tire wear. With an aftermarket exhaust and forged wheels my car feels a lot more tail happy, not sure if others have the same experience. Great car on the track, a blast to drive and extremely neutral in my experience.
 

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Much appreciated, great to hear from someone with a lot of experience and detail! Thank you

Sorry I missed this reply vndrsmth...glad to help out and I know I am gaining as well! More replies to your new notes here.

____

Track Prep: How often do you change oil & type, flush brakes, check fluids, etc.?
Annually unless I have had a brake issue / fluid boil then right afterward.

With Irons, I'd typically bleed before and after each track weekend at minimum. Sounds like with SRF or equivalent you might be able to get by much longer and anything more would be extra precautionary.

Yeah I think I got so used to the Ford GT braking and car in general being bullet proof I never thought about it and honestly feel like there is greater chance of making things a little worse on the standard manual bleed in a system that is working well. But yes, once I changed fluid to the high temp Brembo (flushed and power bled) I did not have issue.

____

Safety:
Bar/Cage: Doesn't look like anyone has made a repeatable kit yet for a half cage/roll bar? Harness bars don't pass a lot of track inspections in the US.
Harnesses: 5-6 points are the standard. I prefer Sparco Evos+cage+Hans but will track the car in OEM form a few times before doing anything drastic.
Yeah this is a big endeavor. We just run track days and it is not required. Even at 160 mph Road America. But a good idea if you want to be quite safe. They do make HANS options that have a chest harness and work with the standard 3 point belts. One of my teammates uses these for development for Ford and likes it.

The Gen 2 V10+ I'm looking for will have the stock buckets to start so I'll likely see how well those perform but highly prefer a HANS/FIA capable setup at the speeds this car is able to achieve. Having wrecked before, a harness and half cage at least is where I feel most comfortable but will start with a Simpson Hybrid for the 3pt for now.

Yes the standard Gen 1 R8 V10 seats are certainly not "racing" type of support seats. They are good, but I am interested in what you find as a good replacement and see if they will work for me. Also interested in what you find for half cage. The Simpson Hybrid is good.

I cringe every time I watch some high horsepower car review video on the track and see the speeds they're reaching without a helmet on, etc. The capabilities of modern cars today, especially at this level, are insane and the level of risk never changes, its simply the amount of which you're willing to accept and sometimes bad things just happen.

Yeah, I am a big bike guy as well and we call these no helmet guys "organ donors"...certainly less so in a closed top car, but close enough at the speeds you are talking. For sure...stuff happens. I take a lot of calculated risk...and try to avoid "reckless" these days...no helmet at high speed is certainly reckless.

_

Tires:

Track Pack: The Audi OEM pack comes with custom MPSC2s. Are these custom wheel offsets and tire sizes?
Tires: I've seen MPSC2s and Pirelli Trefeo Rs - no Dunlops or Hoosiers or is that just due to 20"?
Yes we run the MPSC2's on the track on our 2012 R8 V10. I like them a lot for grip (even in the wet), handling, steering, ride, and durability. I have run 7 half an hour sessions at Road America and (3) half an hour sessions at Grattan on the SC2's and only used 1 mm of tread even all of the way across. That is pulling about 1G in braking everywhere and 1.2 G in the corners. However, while I have gotten some decent slides I tend to stay within the tire and not try to past it / abuse it. I do not run traction / stability control on the track because I get it to go off a bit (when I don't need it) and its incredibly hard on the brakes.

I do like the MPSC2s but their fall off is real and can't be measured in the amount of tread left. I've killed a set of those over a few weekends, even in the middle of a track weekend where my laptimes dropped 2-3secs and they completely lost their hold. I'll have to research some additional, more predictable Rcomp options but at 20" the options are pretty limited. They may be the best bang for the buck on a dedicated set of track wheels while a more seasonal performance tire, like the 4S, would be for daily and whenever its going to rain.

For sure understood on fall off and not related to depth...but instead temperature and number of cycles. I have not experienced this fall off of the MPSC2's with our set up and for sure cooler temps. Please beware that the spring rates and corresponding damping you were talking are extremely hard on tires and the fall off is drastic. We used to beat everyone badly on our best days in NASCAR Cup a lot with Edwards, Kenseth and teammates because of our long run speed (springs, bars and damping mostly). We had great short run speed, but really left the rest behind on long runs. I did the same with Max Papis in Champ Car years earlier. Yes, I run the 4S's on the street they are great) and actually some laps on the track as well - found the PSC2's to be about the same car balance and behavior, but just more grip.

____

Suspension:
Springs vs Coilovers:
KW HAS vs H&R. Are their no true coil overs or just height-adjustable springs? How is dampening with the stock struts and the clearance for street driving without front-lift? Any recommended custom spring rates or just purchase off the shelf?
Well, I am biased here of course, but we run our custom developed Ahlman Performance Ohlins TTX Street Performance coil-overs for Gen 1, which is ride height and 2-way damping adjustable (4-way available). This set up is great for the road (as good or better ride than stock) with more direct / linear/ predictable steering (with a lot less steering wheel vibration and oscillation) and better grip (rough road and smooth) and handling for the track. Also, less balance change through the entire corner (entry, middle to exit). You can see this thread for the Ohlins Coilovers for Gen 2. They are a little stiffer and more track biased than our Street Performance set up, but I am glad to work with you on putting this Street Performance setup on your Gen 2 for the price of the base Ohlins kit.

Very familiar with Ohlins as I've had their Road & Track previously and excited to review this option with you. Will send a direct message as I'd like to test these and am happy to be a guinea pig for spring rates and custom valving. Perhaps the TTX is bulletproof out of the box, excited to find out.

Awesome. Let me know...whats you're home track? Depending on the distance I can pull our V10 there and run with you. We have done a ton of street and track testing on this custom Ohlins TTX tune. It included one of my old Ford GT ride and handling teammates in the dry and wet and Grattan. Need to post this video too. But he was impressed with the predictable handling, better grip, less balance change through the corner, better transitions and better grip on the curbing. He was not a fan of the stock mag ride in comfort and especially sport mode. Neither am I - the suspension feels locked out in sport mode. But I know many here like it in general and especially sport mode. Just an example of a set up that is extremely hard on tires and grip.

I believe this will all apply to the Gen2 because weights, center of gravity, chassis and such are close. Better coilover motion ratio in the front on the Gen 2 so some adjustment for that though the Ohlins kit we discussed was developed specifically for the Gen 2 by Ohlins.


__

Rubber vs Solid Bushings:
What's the verdict and where is it important i.e. bump-steer, toe, etc.?
As a suspension designer I am not a fan of the "solid" / urethane bushings for multiple reasons. I would go to special sphericals / heim joints instead. But I don't think this is remotely worth it if you spend anytime on the street...even with up to 10 track days...unless you are racing. The R8 behaves really well on the track / at the limit. And our Ohlins coil-overs make it very responsive yet predictable.

With the arm design on the front and rear, solid bushing options are probably overkill and would likely ruin the street experience but I'm always interested in ways to make the car handle more predictably, consistently, and reliably. Once I pick my R8 up and get it on a lift, I'll probably have more questions.

Well, I can't speak to long term durability, but the R8 has been incredibly predictable and consistent for me...except for the brakes. Our Ohlins suspension takes it another good step better. So definitely not an area I will change unless I started having durability and resultant handling and steering issues. We did 24 hours of Nelson Ledges (super rough and fast) testing on the Ford GT...stock and it felt great still afterward. We'll see on the R8.

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Sway Bars: Anything to be gained with a larger, thicker bar or CF?
Honestly the R8 is quite stiff in corner springs and bars. Those bars and springs are huge compared to what we ran on the Ford GT. Adding anti- bar size can help you with balance of the car and it runs flatter, but actually reduces grip level on smooth and especially rough road. Also the changes we made in springs and damping actually make the car more predictable and stable on entry, less understeer mid-corner and better power down on exit.

As an AWD, I wonder what the GT2/GT3 class R8s run as it would be very interesting to see what changes they make based on track specifics i.e. in some cases on AWD and RWD cars we'd run with no front or no rear sway bar all together to counter understeer and increase oversteer or switch from light to heavy bars based on circumstance. The stock setup is probably more than enough but would be very interested in investigating this further.

For sure reducing or no bars is a way to improve grip and change balance...this is a big project...the bars are pretty buried on the R8. But I will check with some local R8 GT3 guys. Stock the car is good, but definitely has plenty of understeer mid corner ...like a street car should. Awful in the big carousel at Road America. Our Ohlins kits help this a lot while also stabilizing entry better and giving better power down. The R8 feels great this way. I don't think a bar change is called for, but glad to hear your thoughts... after time with our suspension on your R8 :)

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Alignment/Geo
: Are there recommended Camber/Toe/Caster/Rake settings for street/track use?
You will find threads on this by a few here. But from my perspective - the R8 behavior and tire wear at stock settings, even with the car lowered nearly a half inch is quite good. You could increase camber, for example, which is already over 1 deg and can increase cornering grip, but decreases braking and power down grip. Tradeoffs.

Based on the weight distribution, I wonder where this may make sense for a street/track setup and how far you could go before diminishing returns i.e. you get more camber and better turn-in at the expense that the car is darty and shifty on the street and trams in highway lanes. I'll have to look into this more. Not concerned with tire wear beyond where it matters.

You will find tradeoffs for street and track as you note, but I don't believe your laptime will improve significantly...improve cornering for example and hurt braking or power down. The R8 is good. Drive it like you stole it.

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Brakes:
Brake Rotors
: How many have put the CCBs on the shelf for Irons like Girodisc, AP, or RBs? I'd be surprised to hear that Audi CCB compounds somehow outlast anyone else with track duty.
I ran stock rotors and they have bad shudder after the 3 track events and Endless MX72 pads (discussed below). Going to Girodisc rotors next.
Brake Pads: Implying switch to Irons = Pagid RS29s or RS19s? or Pagid 29s F and 19s Rear? or Ferodo? Other?
I went through a set of Endless MX72's in (4) 30 minute sessions at Road America. They are meant for street and light track use I guess. Good feel. No noise. But not enough stopping power, had some fade and awful wear (and no front brake sensor). So I have to figure something else out like the Pagids...I just hate all of the reports on noise.
Fluid: RBF 600, 660, or Castrol?
I boiled the stock fluid badly at Road America even though it was new fluid and flushed a few months before the track. (I was so used to the stock Ford GT brakes being so good everywhere, including Road America, that I didn't think it would be an issue.) A local shop said they run the new Brembo HTC64T fluid in their R8 GT3 race cars fluid with extremely high wet and dry boiling temps (Higher than Castrol SRF). And not to expensive or corrosive like SRF. I ran this and my brake fluid issues were gone.

The braking on the R8 is the weakest aspect of the car from a track perspective IMHO. I have some work to do to brake anywhere near what I was used to at Road America or otherwise in a stock Ford GT. I am guessing the brakes need some upgraded cooling.

Hope this helps. Contact me anytime with questions...and for sure if you want to upgrade your coilovers!


I've never used Endless but familiar with similar pads from Pagid, Ferodo, etc. Noise never matters to me on the street as the trips are short and you shouldn't be driving anywhere near the speeds needed to get them to temp on the road. There's probably a mix based on the weight, heat, and size of the rotors that would work brilliantly with Irons such as Pagid 29 fronts and 19 rears which many have used on P-cars to balance brake bias, pedal feel, stopping power, and the personal "correct" amount of bite. My personal style is more momentum so I may have a lot to investigate here before swapping rotors to Irons and heading to the track.

This the area to focus on the R8 IMHO. I hope the Gen 2 is better. It is a big achilles heal on the Gen1, in my experience. So different than what I was used to and really shouldn't be. One thing I see is that the brake bias, I am guessing adjusting electronically like we did on the Ford GT...seems biased way to the front for stability. The rear pads hardly wear while fronts are torched...same compound front and rear and rotors.

Will have to try the Pagid's...I have plenty of friends who agree with you on not caring about the noise...it just drives me crazy as a designer of these cars and sounds cheap and awful to me (as opposed to the V10's exhaust and induction noise...so good). I will likely just have to switch out pads for track days...easy if I don't have a big difference in thickness...a pain in the butt if I have to push pad pistons back out and deal with fluid from the reservoir...under the cowel that has to be removed on our 2012 :( I need to find or make an access panel that I think used to be there early on.

I am a kart racer, though higher HP (Intercontinental "A" and TaG) they are still about momentum and my hands are pretty calm. So I agree, but heavy braking is needed on the long straightaways at a place like Road America. I hope the braking on your Gen 2 and CCB's work a lot better. I have some work to do here on pedal feel, bite, stopping power, fade, wear, etc...she only brakes at 0.8 to 0.9 G - straight line at high speed (160 mph lift off) with aero and low speed while I am cornering at 1.1 to 1.2 G's all day (these are averages...not spikes). We'll see what it does when I get it a lot better.

Its a great thread. Glad to participate, give feedback and learn as well. Definitely plenty of this elsewhere, but I think somewhat distributed. I look forward to more here.

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Thanks all in advance. I'm sure this is contained in multiple threads, many I've read but still have questions.
Again, much appreciated. Will continue to update this as I learn and find out more
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I'm in the same boat, not as hard core and only track 2-3 times a year. Run the stock CCB's that come on the plus but purchased a set of Pagid RSC1's dedicated for the track that I swap out for track weekends at home. 660 fluid changed yearly and I tend to change my oil after a hard track weekend unless yearly service is around the corner. I did purchase a set 19" forged monoblocks to save a ton of rotational mass compared to the stock wheels. Plus a lot more tire options. Have been running cup 2's on the track wheels and getting 2-3 weekends out of a set but I'm a 5/10 6/10 driver at best so ymmv on tire wear. With an aftermarket exhaust and forged wheels my car feels a lot more tail happy, not sure if others have the same experience. Great car on the track, a blast to drive and extremely neutral in my experience.
Tail happy all through the corner or just on corner exit? Regardless sounds like you need some of our Ohlins TTX's for that beast :)
 

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Mostly corner exit in performance dry with ESC off (can't run ESC at Daytona because the banks confuse the computer). I noticed it much more after switching to lighter wheels.
 

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OK, ESC off is good at any dry track...its OK in the wet. Setting it off in the dry is very hard on the brakes. While not intrusive I had it going off a lot at Road America...even in the big flat Carousel...caused my initial brake fade.

How much lighter per corner are your wheels? Since it can spin up quicker this is quite possible and takes some adjustment to your throttle application (a little less and slower usually). If the wheels are noticeably lighter (~5 lbs each) then a slight shock adjustment might be called for also. For me, one of the big differences to stock R8 mag ride versus our Adjustable Ohlins TTX coilovers has been power down.
 

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R8 is a great daily and capable track car out of the box but it’s no GT3RS. I also agree the weak points are the brakes as my pads overheated and glazed, but Audi covered it under warranty. (Yes I drove with traction on) Converting to steel is the way to go if you plan on doing more than a few a year as they cost significantly less and offer same performance. Otherwise the tires are the other weak point as I have the factory Pirelli’s and they suck.
 

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I've now got 4 days on a supercharged Gen1 v8, so not directly comparable but close. I have Ohlins R&T coilovers, which were a great upgrade over stock magrides while remaining very liveable on the street. Still fine tuning with an alignment to dial out a bit of understeer.

Alcon rotors (car came with them) are huge and $$$. I had Endless ME20 pads and did not love them, have now switched to Pagid RS29, which have better bite and feel when hot at the expense of more noise. I've loved them on other cars (M3 and Cayman). RBF600 fluid, no issues there.

GMG seat mounts for Recaro Profi seats (I was not a fan of the stock seats). Have you inquired with GMG about their roll cages? I don't think they stock them but maybe they will still make them to order.

RE71r tires, a good compromise tire that's much cheaper than the Michelins.

I've got a ways to go to get up to the comfort level I was at with the M3 and Cayman but once I figure out the understeer this is a lovely track car, especially with the gated manual!
 

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R8 is a great daily and capable track car out of the box but it’s no GT3RS. I also agree the weak points are the brakes as my pads overheated and glazed, but Audi covered it under warranty. (Yes I drove with traction on) Converting to steel is the way to go if you plan on doing more than a few a year as they cost significantly less and offer same performance. Otherwise the tires are the other weak point as I have the factory Pirelli’s and they suck.
I want to know how you convinced a dealer to cover a normal wear and tear item that was tracked to address under warranty. ?
 

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R8 is a great daily and capable track car out of the box but it’s no GT3RS. I also agree the weak points are the brakes as my pads overheated and glazed, but Audi covered it under warranty. (Yes I drove with traction on) Converting to steel is the way to go if you plan on doing more than a few a year as they cost significantly less and offer same performance. Otherwise the tires are the other weak point as I have the factory Pirelli’s and they suck.
Yeah and certainly not the price of a GT3RS at this point...except the latest Gen2's and still a big price difference. Much lighter weight is a huge difference, but not a fan of their very heavy rear weight. My Gen1 V10 with AWE exhaust is only 55% rear at full fuel. So good.

Definitely interesting you were able to get Audi to cover the brake pad glazing. Yeah I am not a fan of the Pirelli's either. Michelin PS4S for the street and MPSC2's for the track like a lot of people here.
 

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Sandwood - I assume the Ohlins TTX's?...contact me for adjustments, which reduce balance change through the corner. Our set up and the base Ohlins TTX coilover kit reduces mid corner understeer a lot from stock so would be good to discuss. I wonder if a bit of this are your tires...they dominate the car behavior.

Will have to try the Pagid RS29's.

When ready for seats I will look at these Recaros
 
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