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Discussion Starter #1
Question for everyone. I want to add wheels to my R8 in the spring. Some things I'm looking for to complete the look.

#1. Concave wheels are a MUST. Front (concave as much as I can without issues). Rear (as much as possible).
#2. Performance/ Looks: I know there's a trade-off between the two. But I'd like a nice two-piece with the rivets behind the rim. But still lighter and stronger than the OEM Y-spoke
#3 Color: So you see I have the gloss black OEM Y-Spokes which look great. But what if I change it up a little and do a lighter shade of black?? Like a black chrome?? Dark Athracite?? etc?? (I am not a fan of bright painted wheels so def wouldn't consider acid green wheels to match the body.) But maybe i would consider doing the lip in acid green maybe. Or just the center caps as an accent. But i need the wheel to match with the overall look of the car including the acid green accents.
#4. Wheel Dimension/Setup: I'd like to stay in the OEM realm as far as size. I will go 9" in front and 11" or 12" in the Rear. But 20" all around. I don't think I would go with 21's in the rear. I live in NY so the 25 height tire will increase risk if blowing the rear tires bc the roads here aren't so great.

Would love suggestions/ offset info/ wheel sizes, pics, etc.

(See, I hate the flat look of the wheel in front. At least they do sit flush with the fender now thanks to Shardul's 15mm x 4 spacer kit. I've seen some that have their front wheel a little concave I guess because of the wheel design. Maybe with a two-piece I have some flexibility versus a monoblock?). I'm not too experienced with offsets, wheel stance, etc.

257832
 

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Discussion Starter #2
257833


This is pic of an alternate angle. I copied the scheme of the Audi Performance wheels just changed the color. I'd maybe like to do the same to the aftermarket ones also depending on the color of the wheel and design I end up choosing.
 

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Brixton makes great wheels but we’re next to impossible to get ahold of. I’m partial to the PF10’s, Targa.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Brixton makes great wheels but we’re next to impossible to get ahold of. I’m partial to the PF10’s, Targa.
oh yea!! with the CF barrel!!! which i was advised not to do because they aren't as strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can have em made to exact spec so I'm not worried about the time. Just trying to lock-down the design
 

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Removing the wheel spacer and picking an offset 15mm lower than the current wheel will increase the concavity.

Although generally the wider the wheel the more concave it will appear, it's possible you could achieve acceptable concavity by reducing both offset and wheel width. I went 1/2" narrower than stock in the rears and since mine are 3 piece I was able to get a bigger lip installed, thus shifting the center point of the wheel and decreasing the overall offset. Ended up with an offset around +35 front (8.5") and back (10.5"), 3.5" lip on the rears and 2.5" on the fronts. Calculations say they will sit pretty flush (mine need to be inside a little since I'm lowered and don't want to stretch my tires too much to clear), but they just arrived last weekend so I have yet to install. 3.5" of concavity depth would be pretty noticeable on a wheel designed with concavity in mind.

The brixton wheel you have shown above isn't really designed with concavity in mind in my opinion. And you'd probably have to go with something 11-12" wide with an offset in the high 30s-low 40s to get the spoke concavity to stand out in that design. As they sit now, especially in that color scheme, it's the bolts and centercap that have the most visual weight, so it's the lip that get's noticed, more than the concavity of the wheel. If you want concavity to be the focal point you might be better off making the faces/spokes of those wheels have more visual priority than the lip and bolts. Or pick a monoblock wheel design that accentuates the spokes, not the fact that it's multi-piece.

You can see a somewhat similar spoke design in a monoblock format in the Rohana RFX11. Being monoblock with spokes that go to the wheels edge (vs the inner edge of the lip) there is no focus on bolts or the lip, and the concavity stands out well in the wide rears, and ok in the narrower fronts.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
hmmm.. that's a lot of info. lemme ask. the higher the offset number the less concave? Or is it vice-versa?? And i'm getting my wheels custom made so I could still get a mono-block with the rivets too somehow. I just love that look. And yea I've been eye-balling those rohana RFX11's forever!! I love the way they look. I would like even a two-piece which the spokes go right to the rim's edge. The brixtons I showed were for an example of the color scheme really. As far as design I'm wide open so I like a lot of wheels. That's the problem too.

I'm trying to find the best offset that will clear my brakes and stuff since I have a Plus.
 

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Try Finspeed wheels. I have a set on my 997 Turbo and they are very customizable. One thing I was very happy with is the fact they could incorporate the factory centercaps into the wheel to give the overall wheel a “factory” appearance. I’m going to get the f5 spyder wheel on my r8 with carbon fiber centercaps to compliment the carbon fiber sideblades.
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hmmm.. that's a lot of info. lemme ask. the higher the offset number the less concave? Or is it vice-versa??
On a wheel of equal width higher offset means the center of the wheel is closer to the outside of the car, thus less concavity and flatter face. Lower offset means the center of the wheel is moving closer to the car, thus creating more concavity between the center of the wheel and it's outside face..

That said, a wider wheel may allow the concavity to show more even at a higher offset than a less wide wheel. A 9" wheel with an offset of +30 will show less concavity than an 11" wheel with +35 offset.
 

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What G8TED said^^^

I use Custom wheels, rim tire packages to compare two different offsets/sizes etc.

Personally I'd recommend going up to 12" rears. This will support wider tyres which equals more contact patch which equals more performance.

If you have spacers definitely get those removed and get your new set of wheels made to the right offset instead.

Just remember - the concavity achieved by the offset changes based on the width of the wheel. What offset means is how far from the center of the wheel does your hub sit. So on a 12" rear wheel, an offset of zero means your hub connects bang in the middle at 6". An offset of +50 (50mm) means that the hub sits about 2" further out, or in other words 4" in from the outside of the wheel - Aka 4" concavity.

To achieve the same 4" concavity on an 11" wheel it would need to have an offset +37.5mm. Hope that makes sense
 
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