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These instructions were great. I just replaced the battery on my '08.

Some small variations (unless I read them wrong).

1. I didn't need the wiper puller I ordered. If you take the load off the spring (fold the wiper up) and then slightly pull, it came right off. This may be an anomaly for the r8, but figured I would post about it since that's how I did it on some of my other vehicles.

2. The emergency trunk release just had two screws and snapped in -- I pulled it out and then just refed it through the front trunk lid.

3. I didn't actually remove the upper portion -- I just slide it up the shocks slightly when pulling out the front compartment. It was pretty easy to do.

 
Thank you Desperado. I followed your trim removal steps/instructions as I needed to remove the trim as prep for welder to install the aluminum reinforcement plates.
I did end up getting a wiper arm pull tool as they were on there pretty snug.
Aside from pausing to get the pull tool, total time for removal of all the trim/frunk was about 1.5hr. That was my first time though and I bet I could now do it in 20min or so.
Thanks again!
 
Would anyone know if the trunk has to be installed for the hood to close properly and if yes can the car also be safely driven with the trunk removed? In my storage I have no access to AC outlet to connect trickle charger and I would like to be able to remove the battery every couple of weeks to charge it.
 
What happens when you disconnect the battery to all the computers? Does everything reboot and not throw codes etc?
 
You will need to do a reset on the windows and it will throw up some codes but they should all clear after driving for about 10 minutes.
 
How do you do a reset on the windows? Will my normal OBD2 scan/reset tool reset it and erase the faults? ok I see I need vag com any recommendations on which one seem to run from 45$ to over a few hundred?
 
You don't need VAG com . The Windows are reset by fully lowering them and then fully raising.
 
Can't answer that, sorry.
 
Did this last week. Very easy. Thank you so much so the step by step guide.
150 euros for the battery and just over an hour of my time. Dealer was asking for 400 euros.
Kept the battery connected to an electric charger so no problems at all.
Hardest part for me was getting the windscreen wipers off.
 
[EDIT] I just did this task today, and have added quite a bit of additional description:
  • Remove all four pieces of plastic trim from around the trunk:
    • There are quite a few quarter turn fasteners holding them in place. Since a screw driver does not really fit the wide, shallow slots properly, be very careful not to slip out of the slots and scratch the plastic trim. Even the slightest scratch really shows on the textured plastic (don't ask me how I know :()
    • The removal order is front (lower), sides, and rear (upper). Take note of the way the panels fit into each other for ease of replacing them the same way.
    • The front trim piece is tricky. There are four large plastic tabs on the front edge which engage with the grill, and the rear edge slides into the slot in the trunk gasket quite a long way. Use a plastic trim removal tool and gently flex and pry the trim away from the grill to release the tabs. I see these tabs broken quite often. If anyone knows the "trick" on this piece I would like to hear it!
    • The two side trim pieces (and the front trim piece) slide into a groove under the rubber gasket on the trunk. The upper (rear) trim piece does not; it just nestles beneath the rubber bulb. Note that you don't remove the trunk gasket from the edge of the trunk.
      Remove the rubber bulb gaskets where the side panels join the wheel well liners. These have internal metal clips. When replacing them fully engage the clips onto the edge of both plastic pieces. If they aren't fully engaged, which is easy to do, the trim will fall off later and be lost.
    • To remove the upper (rear) piece you must first remove the windshield wiper arms, which requires a special puller. Cycle the wipers a few times before removing them to make sure they stop in the lowest position. Put a piece of masking tape on the windshield to mark the outer end of each blade so you can reassemble them in the same position. I don't suggest trying to remove them without the proper puller, if they are tight you will scar the arms.
      Remove the cap from the windshield wiper reservoir. If you choose to leave it on the tank, don't forget to carefully feed it back through the hole in the trim when reassembling, otherwise it will be trapped or damaged.
      You might ask a helper to hold up the hood while you remove the lower end of the gas struts. (I usually do this alone and briefly rest the end of the gas strut in the groove in the top of the plastic wheel liner while I remove the trim.)
      Then you need to gently peel the upper edge of the trim piece out of its plastic channel at the base of the windshield. Start at one end and work towards the other. It will be snug. Note the position so you can put it back the same way. When replacing it, make sure it is aligned in the groove then use a gentle bump with the heel of the palm to seat the trim back into the plastic channel.
  • Remove the entire tool kit from inside the trunk (not required, but gets rid of the extra weight for the next few steps). Simply grab the styrofoam liner and lift the entire kit up and out.
  • Remove the large black screws from the wide black bracket at the upper front outer edge of the trunk (2@T30). (Don't remove the four self tapping screws just barely visibile inside the front lip of the trunk.)
  • Unplug the wiring harness (for the light and power socket) from the front right-hand outer side of the trunk (next to the right headlight).
  • Remove the small black screws (8@T20) around the edge of the emergency trunk release assembly on the inside of the trunk.
  • Pull up firmly on the trunk to release the four rubber grommets from the pins in the frame. (Note: If one or more of the rubber grommets stay on the car, pull them off the pins and put them back into the recesses on the trunk before reinstallation. It helps to put a dab of silicon grease on the pins to ease reassembly as well as removal the next time.)
  • Lift the trunk enough to gain access and unplug the wiring harness from the emergency trunk release assembly.
  • Now gently feed the emergency trunk release assembly through the opening and remove it from the trunk while lifting the trunk.
At this point you should be able to remove the trunk from the car and access the battery.

When replacing the trunk, it is important to route all of the trunk release cables the same way they were before. And very important: if you are not careful you can dislodge the little plastic piece in the release mechanism which will disable the electric trunk release. It is exposed and can be inadvertently bumped.

Despite the above, it is not especially difficult. It takes me about ten minutes to remove the trunk and at least twice as long to replace it, with the right tools and having done it before. However there are quite a few steps, it does require some care, and you need the special tool for the wiper arms. I suppose it might be possible to slip the trunk out past the unfastened upper trim piece without removing the wipers, but I haven't tried it.
To remove the front trim piece, push with both thumbs to compress the gasket/seal. Then the four tabs at the front are freed.

Picture shows only one hand but I used both at the same time.

Image
 
Two newbie questions:

1. How do I open this connector? I presume it is the correct one for the light and 12 V socket in the trunk. It seems to be bound to the trunk somehow.

2. I don't see a quick release in my trunk. I'm driving a Euro 2011 spyder V10 with manual transmission. Perhaps not all models have it visible in the trunk? The shop manual suggests this is the case.

Thanks in advance!

Image
 
Two newbie questions:

1. How do I open this connector? I presume it is the correct one for the light and 12 V socket in the trunk. It seems to be bound to the trunk somehow.

2. I don't see a quick release in my trunk. I'm driving a Euro 2011 spyder V10 with manual transmission. Perhaps not all models have it visible in the trunk? The shop manual suggests this is the case.

Thanks in advance!

Image
Answered my own questions and finished the job.

1. Slide the connector up to free it from the trunk. Once free it is easy to open with a small flathead sliding it in from the bottom/right. Can't believe it stumped me for 15 minutes!

2. My car has a different set up. Picture of how it has the quick release. Not in the trunk.

Image
 
Just got through replacing my battery last night. Took under 2 hours including stopping to drink a beer. :)

I did not remove the wiper blades, hood support struts, or upper cover. There was enough slack and flexibility between the upper cover (after removing all the fasteners) and the flanges it covers on the liner to flex it out. I even left the side covers in place only removing the flathead Dzus fastener things.



YMMV,
Nels
 
I just went though the battery change procedure on my 2009 R8 using all of the knowledge from this post, and it was very easy overall. It took a total of 1-1.5 hours overall. I also did not need to remove my wipers or hood struts, as well as I left the upper plastic boot cover in place. I then had a friend hold up the plastic piece while I removed the boot, and it was very easy with no hard pulling or manipulation of the top plastic cover.

Watch out for accidentally unplugging your turn signal cable instead of the cable attached to the 12v truck adapter before removing the truck, as both are right next to each other!
 
I found no reason to unplug the 12v lighter socket. Just turned the tub in a position the cable was not taught, moved it to one side and ensured it would not fall. I did however remove everything else. Go ahead and hit those three locking latches with silicone spray while your in the area. Also I noticed one of my rubber moldings along with the retainer clips on the upper wheel well was missing. Without having to exchange the battery and remove the plastic wheel covers I would never have noticed. Funny thing is when I went to the dealer to order parts and took a look at another owners vehicle in the garage. That car had the moldings on both sides missing.
 
Also I noticed one of my rubber moldings along with the retainer clips on the upper wheel well was missing. Without having to exchange the battery and remove the plastic wheel covers I would never have noticed. Funny thing is when I went to the dealer to order parts and took a look at another owners vehicle in the garage. That car had the moldings on both sides missing.
Interesting observation- apparently these fall off quite regularly, and many R8 are driving around "sans" rubber molding. Other threads about this issue. :)
 
Interesting observation- apparently these fall off quite regularly, and many R8 are driving around "sans" rubber molding. Other threads about this issue. :)
One reason could be that they are circa $100 each. :(
 
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